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Link to last week’s thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=611028
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity
Alex's sport climbing training article is still here:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Psyche video of the week: http://www.redbull.com/de/de/adventure/stories/1331710673696/alex-megos-luc... - Alex Megos on Lucid Dreaming - Thanks to AJM for the suggestion.
Ian Rock - Well done on the parkrun
Mutl3y - Congrats on the F7A
AJM - Happy Birthday!
mattrm - Try harder fatty!
The Ex-Engineer - Better this week I hope?
mrchewey - How's the breathing doing?
0.5Viking - Looks like a good solid week there
flopsicle - Well done on the course record
Tyler - Booo on the lack of sun
Lancer - Well done on the solos, they'll stand you in good stead for the HVS goal
mbh - The Classic Quarter sounds ace. Good luck with that.
Joyce - Lots of solid training in there. That 7B+ goal will fall easily.
biscuit - Hope you're recovered from the man flu
Dandan82 - DIY Club is go! And some boring climbing stuff
Willi Crater - Hope you enjoyed the stream splodging
Cheese Monkey - Lots of excercise there, well done.
Ally Smith - Boooo on Fisheye. Yay on the learning process
Exile - Lots of nice training there.
JayK - Well done on the bouldering. Picked some 8Bs yet?
Nick Russell - Trad lead falls? Beast. Recovered from the manflu?
Just Tintin - Trad season is now on!
Kevster - Where's the goals?
hms - Sounds like an excellent holiday.
Creedence - Lots of good solid training there.
Post edited at 12:25
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt. Bishop looks cool, but so high psyched for more bouldering atm so maybe next year (or Hueco).
Bit of a weird old week. Lacking in motivation, think I'm a bit bored with this set of problems. Finger being weird didn't help. Did 2 pumpy aerobic sessions though which was good so hopefully that will be ticking over at least - I shouldn't be losing too much.
Not sure what to think about my finger at the minute.
- On the plus side, I'm climbing harder than I thought I would be with mummified finger open handing things. I can climb a bit without tape too as long as I'm still in control of what I'm doing. And I'm enjoying the rings, definitely seen progress on the exercises including some I just couldn't do before - I lowered to the bottom of a dip on the rings a month or so ago, tried to push back out, and nothing happened! Will probably try to keep this up as it definitely works me all over.
- on the minus side, I'm a bit dispirited by my attempts at gentle deadhangs this week. Definitely a way away from being right. Some soreness in the pulley, which McLeod says is ok as long as there's not pain during moves but is still a bit annoying. And I've had some weird twinges in my palm once or twice which self-diagnosis suggests is a flexor unit twinge in the ring finger caused by the open handing 3-fingered (dropping the pinkie to allow a more fully open hand grip) - have to strike a balance and use as open-handed a chisel grip as I can to balance between the two!
I suppose it's my expectations - I had the happy bit a few weeks back where I was outperforming where I thought I'd be in the recovery climbing level, now I'm frustrated because the actual rehab itself is slower than I'd perhaps imagined it would be. First pulley injury so I suppose I just had optimistic expectations on the latter and pessimistic on the former.
Don't expect to do much climbing this week although I will try to squeeze in an aerobic session, some rings and maybe some fingerboard somewhere in order to keep things ticking over. Then a few weeks of not posting I imagine whilst I'm on holiday.
Monday - wall. Bit of bouldering. Session of 1-on-1-off. Pumpy! Did some rings after that, 3x3 l-sit to inverts I think. Forget what else.
Tuesday - walked to work, otherwise rest.
Wednesday - wall. Some warmups, then 1-on-2-off which was harder than I remember it being. 3x8 wide grip pullups and some stretching. Tried some gentle half crimp deadhangs and weirdly it seemed like my nervous system just didn't want to let me pull. Very strange.
Thursday - rest
Friday - wall. Some bouldering. Reduced the tape. Unsure how that went. Rings. 3,4,3 l-sit to invert. 7,6,6 tucked front lever pullups. 2 sets dips on the bar. 2x2 dips on rings - a new thing for me. Couldn't do these at the start.
Sat - rest
Sun - tbc
Cheers Matt. Bishop looks cool, but so high psyched for more bouldering atm so maybe next year (or Hueco).
Bit of a weird old week. Lacking in motivation, think I'm a bit bored with this set of problems. Finger being weird didn't help. Did 2 pumpy aerobic sessions though which was good so hopefully that will be ticking over at least - I shouldn't be losing too much.
Not sure what to think about my finger at the minute.
- On the plus side, I'm climbing harder than I thought I would be with mummified finger open handing things. I can climb a bit without tape too as long as I'm still in control of what I'm doing. And I'm enjoying the rings, definitely seen progress on the exercises including some I just couldn't do before - I lowered to the bottom of a dip on the rings a month or so ago, tried to push back out, and nothing happened! Will probably try to keep this up as it definitely works me all over.
- on the minus side, I'm a bit dispirited by my attempts at gentle deadhangs this week. Definitely a way away from being right. Some soreness in the pulley, which McLeod says is ok as long as there's not pain during moves but is still a bit annoying. And I've had some weird twinges in my palm once or twice which self-diagnosis suggests is a flexor unit twinge in the ring finger caused by the open handing 3-fingered (dropping the pinkie to allow a more fully open hand grip) - have to strike a balance and use as open-handed a chisel grip as I can to balance between the two!
I suppose it's my expectations - I had the happy bit a few weeks back where I was outperforming where I thought I'd be in the recovery climbing level, now I'm frustrated because the actual rehab itself is slower than I'd perhaps imagined it would be. First pulley injury so I suppose I just had optimistic expectations on the latter and pessimistic on the former.
Don't expect to do much climbing this week although I will try to squeeze in an aerobic session, some rings and maybe some fingerboard somewhere in order to keep things ticking over. Then a few weeks of not posting I imagine whilst I'm on holiday.
Monday - wall. Bit of bouldering. Session of 1-on-1-off. Pumpy! Did some rings after that, 3x3 l-sit to inverts I think. Forget what else.
Tuesday - walked to work, otherwise rest.
Wednesday - wall. Some warmups, then 1-on-2-off which was harder than I remember it being. 3x8 wide grip pullups and some stretching. Tried some gentle half crimp deadhangs and weirdly it seemed like my nervous system just didn't want to let me pull. Very strange.
Thursday - rest
Friday - wall. Some bouldering. Reduced the tape. Unsure how that went. Rings. 3,4,3 l-sit to invert. 7,6,6 tucked front lever pullups. 2 sets dips on the bar. 2x2 dips on rings - a new thing for me. Couldn't do these at the start.
Sat - rest
Sun - tbc
In reply to mattrm: Cheers for doing the thread this week Matt.
It has been a much better week and it isn't finished yet! Will post the full report later.
It has been a much better week and it isn't finished yet! Will post the full report later.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt, waiting for those evenings to get lighter...
A mixed week this week- no outside rock, which was a shame, but some small grade advances on indoor leading routes and bouldering.
Mon- rest
Tues-12 mile cycle commute. Pm- AW- 7 routes- 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+ (not clean), 6c (failed!). A short but good session- getting more consistent at 6b+ (3 this time). Was exhausted by the time I tried the 6c, so perhaps not the best idea- no surprises that I popped off.
Wed- my birthday- got home to find my kids had made a birthday trail around the house- leading to cake and presents- bless! Presents included Steve Maclure's biog, and Reel Rock 8 and Last Great Climb DVDs- should keep me occupied for a while.
Thurs- nowt.
Fri- nowt.
Sat- Works- did 18 "Pinkle" routes, including a few I had failed on before- a good session as only managed 11 Pinkles last time. Then did some Frenchies to kill myself off- 1 set of 4, 3 sets of 2. Crawled home...!
Sun- Mother's Day- no exercise today and aching a little from bouldering yesterday.
Goals:
STG/ MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (VS at present)
LTG
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.
Cheers Matt, waiting for those evenings to get lighter...
A mixed week this week- no outside rock, which was a shame, but some small grade advances on indoor leading routes and bouldering.
Mon- rest
Tues-12 mile cycle commute. Pm- AW- 7 routes- 6a, 6b, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+ (not clean), 6c (failed!). A short but good session- getting more consistent at 6b+ (3 this time). Was exhausted by the time I tried the 6c, so perhaps not the best idea- no surprises that I popped off.
Wed- my birthday- got home to find my kids had made a birthday trail around the house- leading to cake and presents- bless! Presents included Steve Maclure's biog, and Reel Rock 8 and Last Great Climb DVDs- should keep me occupied for a while.
Thurs- nowt.
Fri- nowt.
Sat- Works- did 18 "Pinkle" routes, including a few I had failed on before- a good session as only managed 11 Pinkles last time. Then did some Frenchies to kill myself off- 1 set of 4, 3 sets of 2. Crawled home...!
Sun- Mother's Day- no exercise today and aching a little from bouldering yesterday.
Goals:
STG/ MTG-
Indoors 6c.
Trad- Onsight HVS (VS at present)
LTG
Trad- Lead E1.
Have a reasonable punt at 7a indoors.
In reply to AJM:
Where did you decide on for honeymoon in the end? Looking forward to next week - we are staying at a B&B called Battledown that we've been to before, it's 30 minute walk away but we'll still be happy to meet up on Sunday if you are planning anything with the guys in your place. How are the stress levels?
Where did you decide on for honeymoon in the end? Looking forward to next week - we are staying at a B&B called Battledown that we've been to before, it's 30 minute walk away but we'll still be happy to meet up on Sunday if you are planning anything with the guys in your place. How are the stress levels?
In reply to Si dH:
2 weeks in Rocklands plus some safari and lazing time
Stress levels middling to ok, yeah. We are doing ok!
Sunday - I was going to send an email some point, but yeah we might loaf around in the park on Sunday if the weather is nice...
2 weeks in Rocklands plus some safari and lazing time
Stress levels middling to ok, yeah. We are doing ok!
Sunday - I was going to send an email some point, but yeah we might loaf around in the park on Sunday if the weather is nice...
1
In reply to mattrm:
thanks Matt. Gentle week, first one since before Christmas.
M - mentioned last week, destroyed by an insanely overhanging Spanish 7b+ cave tufa route.
T - travel home
w - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Boulder at TCA in evening, doing more of the v1-v4 circuit. I can do virtually all of them except a couple with more dynamic/novelty moves. May be able to get some more (plus some were taped of due to setting). Tried some of the mothership problems. 6a jugfests easy. Only 6b on the steep seemed ridiculously hard, even heel-hooking like crazy.
F - cycle commute. S&C x 3 in the evening.
S - nothing. Felt ill.
S - UCR. Tried boulder problems from comp - v hard & comp style (weird volumes). Onsighted several of the comp routes but closed down by one move on the 7a(+), at the 2nd clip! Felt really really ill. Went home to bed. (I blame the pret a mange salad from yesterday!)
thanks Matt. Gentle week, first one since before Christmas.
M - mentioned last week, destroyed by an insanely overhanging Spanish 7b+ cave tufa route.
T - travel home
w - cycle commute
T - cycle commute. Boulder at TCA in evening, doing more of the v1-v4 circuit. I can do virtually all of them except a couple with more dynamic/novelty moves. May be able to get some more (plus some were taped of due to setting). Tried some of the mothership problems. 6a jugfests easy. Only 6b on the steep seemed ridiculously hard, even heel-hooking like crazy.
F - cycle commute. S&C x 3 in the evening.
S - nothing. Felt ill.
S - UCR. Tried boulder problems from comp - v hard & comp style (weird volumes). Onsighted several of the comp routes but closed down by one move on the 7a(+), at the 2nd clip! Felt really really ill. Went home to bed. (I blame the pret a mange salad from yesterday!)
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs (2 lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks
W - 5k run
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 100 dish tucks
Ate badly this week, as I sort of thought I would. Being away with work meant no climbing. Busy weekend which meant little DIY and no climbing. I'm just going to get a session done next week, but that'll be it as I want to get the kitchen finished, so I can move on from that. I also need to get some mtbing done ready for the Dyfi Enduro.
It was fun to do the stats again and I don't think I missed anyone?
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - Sport pyramid - 6a (2/10), 6b (1/6), 6c (0/1) - Trad pyramid - VS (5/10), HVS (0/6), E1 (0/1) 12st 3lbs...
Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus, Orion), WI5, Redpoint 8a (Masada, Mortal Kombat & Cider Soak) stay injury free & maintain 11st.
Weight - 12st 6lbs (2 lbs gain)
M - Rest
T - 200 dish tucks
W - 5k run
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - 100 dish tucks
Ate badly this week, as I sort of thought I would. Being away with work meant no climbing. Busy weekend which meant little DIY and no climbing. I'm just going to get a session done next week, but that'll be it as I want to get the kitchen finished, so I can move on from that. I also need to get some mtbing done ready for the Dyfi Enduro.
It was fun to do the stats again and I don't think I missed anyone?
Post edited at 19:09
In reply to mattrm:
Hi Matt, thanks for doing this!
The Classic Quarter does sound really good, but I need to work out how to run that far and not give up. I would like to do it in 8 hours, which will be tough.
This week began with a slack mid-week, because I didn't feel well and because my wife was away, so I had the car to myself, and so I didn't HAVE to run after work to catch my lift. And my younger daughter was home and I wanted to get home in a reasonable time and make tea and spend time with her. So I only did two mid-week runs. This meant that I entered the weekend with less than 14 miles on the board and a 50 mile target to meet. So Saturday and Sunday were not slack!
M -
T -
W - in Newquay, so did 5.8 miles around the nicer end, where the headlands are, and down to the Gannel, facing Crantock. Would have been less than this, but I had to keep running until I could find the car.
T - zilch, again, this week is not going well.
F - it starts to pick up - 7.8 miles around the Great Flat Lode
S- 18.3 miles up on to Bodmin Moor and back, 2700 ft ascent, in 8:52. An improvement on the 9:04 I did last time.
S - 12.8 miles, then later, another 6 miles, each with 1000ft ascent.
which together give me 50.6 miles and almost 5700 ft ascent. I can't see any great performance indicators in there, other than that I could do two consecutive days of hilly 18+ miles. With the CQ in mind, perhaps one of 30+ run/walk miles would have been better.
Hi Matt, thanks for doing this!
The Classic Quarter does sound really good, but I need to work out how to run that far and not give up. I would like to do it in 8 hours, which will be tough.
This week began with a slack mid-week, because I didn't feel well and because my wife was away, so I had the car to myself, and so I didn't HAVE to run after work to catch my lift. And my younger daughter was home and I wanted to get home in a reasonable time and make tea and spend time with her. So I only did two mid-week runs. This meant that I entered the weekend with less than 14 miles on the board and a 50 mile target to meet. So Saturday and Sunday were not slack!
M -
T -
W - in Newquay, so did 5.8 miles around the nicer end, where the headlands are, and down to the Gannel, facing Crantock. Would have been less than this, but I had to keep running until I could find the car.
T - zilch, again, this week is not going well.
F - it starts to pick up - 7.8 miles around the Great Flat Lode
S- 18.3 miles up on to Bodmin Moor and back, 2700 ft ascent, in 8:52. An improvement on the 9:04 I did last time.
S - 12.8 miles, then later, another 6 miles, each with 1000ft ascent.
which together give me 50.6 miles and almost 5700 ft ascent. I can't see any great performance indicators in there, other than that I could do two consecutive days of hilly 18+ miles. With the CQ in mind, perhaps one of 30+ run/walk miles would have been better.
In reply to mbh:
I'd strongly recommend 'Relentless Forward Progress' - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1891369903
But it is that simple really. Start out really slow and just keep trogging. I spend lots of time in ultras walking (as do many others). Don't worry about times for the first few races, just worry about getting food and blister strategy right.
> Hi Matt, thanks for doing this!
> The Classic Quarter does sound really good, but I need to work out how to run that far and not give up. I would like to do it in 8 hours, which will be tough.
I'd strongly recommend 'Relentless Forward Progress' - http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1891369903
But it is that simple really. Start out really slow and just keep trogging. I spend lots of time in ultras walking (as do many others). Don't worry about times for the first few races, just worry about getting food and blister strategy right.
Post edited at 19:54
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt - and yeah, the breathing is a lot better on routes as long as I'm vocal about it. Still holding my breath climbing back down the boulder panels tho.
STG - Sort breathing.
Mon - Routes. Breathed okay, only held breath twice. There about 3hrs. Nothing harder than 6a.
Tue - Charity on Idwel Slabs - Hen's first day on rock. Let her decide what she wanted to do. Did a few pitches to show her how to build a belay etc and then she led out. Dry, not much wind and the sun even shone. Great day. First time I've used a rope on the slabs and it was slow going... really need to do more easy soloing in Wales on the big multipitch routes, it's why I started climbing in the first place and it's easy to forget the original motivating factors.
Wed - Rain. Walked all round Dinorwig, got drenched.
Thu - Rain. Tried on waterproofs.
Fri - Boulder indoors. Flashed V3, worked some V4s. Learnt loads. MRI scan on left knee.
Sat - Rest day.
Sun - Easy routes with new to climbing mates. Nailed my breathing, two feet on and broke in new Scarpas, the old Vapour velcros and gotta say - they made for very neat footwork.
Felt strong on Friday, even tho it's been easy rainbowing for a few weeks. Flashed the crimpy 10deg V3 but the morpho ones are all a bit tough on the wrist, so tried skipping holds which sometimes works for me - managed to skip three holds on one V4 problem and even two holds on a roof V3 with some random thinking. Worked some other V4s, learnt lots and practised some momentum stuff. Been focusing on keeping both feet on, which has really altered my climbing style, it's also meant more foot movements too, to try and keep a straight arm. All interesting. Not really started properly on the momentum stuff yet but the other stuff is coming along.
Should have the MRI results in 10 days or so - fingers crossed.
Thanks Matt - and yeah, the breathing is a lot better on routes as long as I'm vocal about it. Still holding my breath climbing back down the boulder panels tho.
STG - Sort breathing.
Mon - Routes. Breathed okay, only held breath twice. There about 3hrs. Nothing harder than 6a.
Tue - Charity on Idwel Slabs - Hen's first day on rock. Let her decide what she wanted to do. Did a few pitches to show her how to build a belay etc and then she led out. Dry, not much wind and the sun even shone. Great day. First time I've used a rope on the slabs and it was slow going... really need to do more easy soloing in Wales on the big multipitch routes, it's why I started climbing in the first place and it's easy to forget the original motivating factors.
Wed - Rain. Walked all round Dinorwig, got drenched.
Thu - Rain. Tried on waterproofs.
Fri - Boulder indoors. Flashed V3, worked some V4s. Learnt loads. MRI scan on left knee.
Sat - Rest day.
Sun - Easy routes with new to climbing mates. Nailed my breathing, two feet on and broke in new Scarpas, the old Vapour velcros and gotta say - they made for very neat footwork.
Felt strong on Friday, even tho it's been easy rainbowing for a few weeks. Flashed the crimpy 10deg V3 but the morpho ones are all a bit tough on the wrist, so tried skipping holds which sometimes works for me - managed to skip three holds on one V4 problem and even two holds on a roof V3 with some random thinking. Worked some other V4s, learnt lots and practised some momentum stuff. Been focusing on keeping both feet on, which has really altered my climbing style, it's also meant more foot movements too, to try and keep a straight arm. All interesting. Not really started properly on the momentum stuff yet but the other stuff is coming along.
Should have the MRI results in 10 days or so - fingers crossed.
Post edited at 19:59
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for the thread Matt!
I've had a busy week with 5 hrs leave on mon I had some extra time to play!
Mon - 3.8 miles run with lots of mud and hills, lovely stuff but a bit slow! PM - 50 laps on the auto belay, all on routes but the grading is a bit dubious. It's a 27ft wall so working on 20ft actual climb makes 1000ft total. I wasn't as knackered as last time I did 50 so must be getting fitter.
Tues - 3.3 miles run, through the muddy woods again - much prefer getting off road!
Weds - 1.5 hours lead climbing.
Thurs - run round the block 1.9 miles
Fri - 1 hr bouldering followed by auto belay laps, got 61 this time 1200ft, all on routes f5+ ish.
Sat - little block with daughter, love running with her - she's like a duracell bunny! 1.5 hrs bouldering.
Sun - 4.1 miles, beat the pink ear-muff wearing whippet (PEWW) AGAIN, not because she reran the course but a 'new' segment appeared directly over the one I got last week but a few hundred yards longer and, oddly, with PEWW as the course record holder from 2014. It must have been a coincidence.... Surely? PM 2hrs bouldering, lots of struggling with hard stuff but got up 2 routes that had me proper stuck yesterday so happy.
I feel fitter, sore but fitter.
Thanks for the thread Matt!
I've had a busy week with 5 hrs leave on mon I had some extra time to play!
Mon - 3.8 miles run with lots of mud and hills, lovely stuff but a bit slow! PM - 50 laps on the auto belay, all on routes but the grading is a bit dubious. It's a 27ft wall so working on 20ft actual climb makes 1000ft total. I wasn't as knackered as last time I did 50 so must be getting fitter.
Tues - 3.3 miles run, through the muddy woods again - much prefer getting off road!
Weds - 1.5 hours lead climbing.
Thurs - run round the block 1.9 miles
Fri - 1 hr bouldering followed by auto belay laps, got 61 this time 1200ft, all on routes f5+ ish.
Sat - little block with daughter, love running with her - she's like a duracell bunny! 1.5 hrs bouldering.
Sun - 4.1 miles, beat the pink ear-muff wearing whippet (PEWW) AGAIN, not because she reran the course but a 'new' segment appeared directly over the one I got last week but a few hundred yards longer and, oddly, with PEWW as the course record holder from 2014. It must have been a coincidence.... Surely? PM 2hrs bouldering, lots of struggling with hard stuff but got up 2 routes that had me proper stuck yesterday so happy.
I feel fitter, sore but fitter.
In reply to flopsicle:
I am so jealous that you've got a wall with an auto-belay. Neither of the walls in Bristol have. There is one at Cardiff, but if I'm going that far it will be a trip en famille so I don't need it then.
I am so jealous that you've got a wall with an auto-belay. Neither of the walls in Bristol have. There is one at Cardiff, but if I'm going that far it will be a trip en famille so I don't need it then.
In reply to hms:
I love it. I use it in earnest when I need a break from short sticky problems. Doing laps forces me to work towards efficiency and at the back end to focus despite feeling tired and to recognise where I still need to pay attention properly. I also like that I can measure it because all the rest of my time climbing is always broken up either trying to figure stuff out, belaying or nattering! I can't really log climbing by time and as notts grading is somewhat singular, can't really log that either!
Once notts had one it got two so I think it worked out well for them. Maybe campaign for one at your wall? Notts got theirs on a free months trial, if it's free for a month - what's not to like?
I love it. I use it in earnest when I need a break from short sticky problems. Doing laps forces me to work towards efficiency and at the back end to focus despite feeling tired and to recognise where I still need to pay attention properly. I also like that I can measure it because all the rest of my time climbing is always broken up either trying to figure stuff out, belaying or nattering! I can't really log climbing by time and as notts grading is somewhat singular, can't really log that either!
Once notts had one it got two so I think it worked out well for them. Maybe campaign for one at your wall? Notts got theirs on a free months trial, if it's free for a month - what's not to like?
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt. An awful week all told. Had a few days in the pub, ate terribly (as in really terribly) and put myself back at least a fortnight maybe more.
On the plus side, got out on the rock and had a reasonable session at Gardoms. Found a couple of inspiring problems. Finished a 5A beastmaker lap.
M-nowt.
T-weak works session. Felt unmotivated and flat.
W-nowt. Pub.
T-150 press ups, 60 normal pull ups, 42/42 on beastmaker 5A lap - best yet time to step up a level!
F-nowt. Pub.
S-mini works with baby and then a session at gardoms. Nothing to report but inspired by a couple of things there.
S-150 press ups & 64 pull ups with +8kgs.
Weight MA 65.0 up from 63.6kgs a week ago. Feel terrible about this. Need to learn the habits of thin people!
GOALS
BY JUNE
1) 7B
2) 60kgs
YEAR END
3) Half a dozen 7Bs or harder. As a minimum. The concrete wish list is currently Piss, Kidneystone, Soft on the G.
4) Staying under 64kgs consistently June to Dec - and all that will entail.
LONG TERM
5) 8A. Why the hell not? I'm pretty confident this won't be ticked before year end!
6) To be so used to eating and training well that I don't even have weight targets!
Thanks Matt. An awful week all told. Had a few days in the pub, ate terribly (as in really terribly) and put myself back at least a fortnight maybe more.
On the plus side, got out on the rock and had a reasonable session at Gardoms. Found a couple of inspiring problems. Finished a 5A beastmaker lap.
M-nowt.
T-weak works session. Felt unmotivated and flat.
W-nowt. Pub.
T-150 press ups, 60 normal pull ups, 42/42 on beastmaker 5A lap - best yet time to step up a level!
F-nowt. Pub.
S-mini works with baby and then a session at gardoms. Nothing to report but inspired by a couple of things there.
S-150 press ups & 64 pull ups with +8kgs.
Weight MA 65.0 up from 63.6kgs a week ago. Feel terrible about this. Need to learn the habits of thin people!
GOALS
BY JUNE
1) 7B
2) 60kgs
YEAR END
3) Half a dozen 7Bs or harder. As a minimum. The concrete wish list is currently Piss, Kidneystone, Soft on the G.
4) Staying under 64kgs consistently June to Dec - and all that will entail.
LONG TERM
5) 8A. Why the hell not? I'm pretty confident this won't be ticked before year end!
6) To be so used to eating and training well that I don't even have weight targets!
Post edited at 20:58
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt!
Training Diary WC 09/03/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 2/3
Monday – TCA. Back on the steep stuff, for the most part. Ticked two greens first go today I’d previously failed miserably on. Almost got a steep crimpy black Tom reckons 7A+ and that pesky powerful red 6C+ on the Mother Ship – much better efforts on the red than before. Campus board: 1 x 1,2,3... ladder, 4 x 1,3,5,7 ladder (topped out on 2), realised I was tired so did a long steady warm down – my forearms and elbows are already thanking me for it!
Tuesday – Tabata session 5/6: 20s sprint, 10s jog x 10 reps. Mostly uphill. Pushed hard – about the same as last week. Short yoga session to finish.
Wednesday – Power pull ups (speedy ones) to start. 3 sets of 8 – much better form too. One armer practice - 3 x sets of now mostly gently sagging (after a 5 to 7s lock) x 3 each side (6 in total per set). 7.5kg weight reduction. Off set pull ups, 3 sets of 2 each side – all but one were 2 proper pulls and locks for 1 second. 3 x 8 pull ups with 7.5kg extra. Finshed with core and some antagonistic exercises.
Thursday – TCA. Steep, steep, steep. Good fun was had by all, progress aplenty on steep, powerful problems. Got on the campus board a bit late and didn’t do well on the first couple of goes so abandoned it and went a did another black (hard circuit).
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Running; Tabata session 6/6: 20s sprint, 10s rest x 10 reps. Best effort yet, tried hardest and got further than previous two attempts on this route. Yoga to finish.
Sunday – A double bill. A couple of hours at Huntsham; got warm (repeating ‘the usual’ up to 7A) then got on my project, Between The Lines… felt solid on it. Was getting the crimp on the lip really well (feels bomber) and nailed the end down too. Just got to get the tricky foot jam in the roof to stick (and with some excellent improvised shoulder stand action I was able to work out the ‘knack’ but too tired after that to nail it). Wednesday it is, if the weather’s out…
Then, off to The Warehouse for a lead session with the good lady wife. A great session, getting more confident above the clips and just cracking on. Almost nailed a 6c+ second go but my left hand was beasted from crimping it’s little heart out at the ‘Sham. A super day of it. Celebrated by helping move furniture for my parents for the afternoon.
Weight = 72.7kg
Right then, goals:
STG (by Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness
MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Keep up the good work team!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Cheers Matt!
Training Diary WC 09/03/15
Maximum Strength Training Week 2/3
Monday – TCA. Back on the steep stuff, for the most part. Ticked two greens first go today I’d previously failed miserably on. Almost got a steep crimpy black Tom reckons 7A+ and that pesky powerful red 6C+ on the Mother Ship – much better efforts on the red than before. Campus board: 1 x 1,2,3... ladder, 4 x 1,3,5,7 ladder (topped out on 2), realised I was tired so did a long steady warm down – my forearms and elbows are already thanking me for it!
Tuesday – Tabata session 5/6: 20s sprint, 10s jog x 10 reps. Mostly uphill. Pushed hard – about the same as last week. Short yoga session to finish.
Wednesday – Power pull ups (speedy ones) to start. 3 sets of 8 – much better form too. One armer practice - 3 x sets of now mostly gently sagging (after a 5 to 7s lock) x 3 each side (6 in total per set). 7.5kg weight reduction. Off set pull ups, 3 sets of 2 each side – all but one were 2 proper pulls and locks for 1 second. 3 x 8 pull ups with 7.5kg extra. Finshed with core and some antagonistic exercises.
Thursday – TCA. Steep, steep, steep. Good fun was had by all, progress aplenty on steep, powerful problems. Got on the campus board a bit late and didn’t do well on the first couple of goes so abandoned it and went a did another black (hard circuit).
Friday – Rest.
Saturday – Running; Tabata session 6/6: 20s sprint, 10s rest x 10 reps. Best effort yet, tried hardest and got further than previous two attempts on this route. Yoga to finish.
Sunday – A double bill. A couple of hours at Huntsham; got warm (repeating ‘the usual’ up to 7A) then got on my project, Between The Lines… felt solid on it. Was getting the crimp on the lip really well (feels bomber) and nailed the end down too. Just got to get the tricky foot jam in the roof to stick (and with some excellent improvised shoulder stand action I was able to work out the ‘knack’ but too tired after that to nail it). Wednesday it is, if the weather’s out…
Then, off to The Warehouse for a lead session with the good lady wife. A great session, getting more confident above the clips and just cracking on. Almost nailed a 6c+ second go but my left hand was beasted from crimping it’s little heart out at the ‘Sham. A super day of it. Celebrated by helping move furniture for my parents for the afternoon.
Weight = 72.7kg
Right then, goals:
STG (by Easter):
Boulder 7B+ (probably Between the Lines or Underhand at Almscliff as close to both).
Keep working weaknesses - one armed hangs, slopers, an-cap, power
Tick some more 7A+s in a session - only done this a couple of times so far.
Do more in a session at TCA - a little less conversation, a little more action - this is probably my biggest weakness
MTG (by end of September)
The Loop at Huntsham (super an-cap 8a),
The 7C traverse at Biblins Cave.
7B in a session - could be ambitious but we need that, eh?
Some 7Bs at the Bowderstone
LTG (by end of next winter)
Tetris, The Keel, Peckitt's Roof (Huntsham), Fat Cat Roof (Dinas Rock) - all 7C
Climb all the Classic Rock routes with the good lady wife.
Actually go up some mountains, rather than just staring at tiny crimps in a cave at the bottom of them!
Dream Climbs
The Nose (El Cap)
Careless Torque - never even actually seen it but it's THE line - wanna be falling off of it within 5 years.
Great Wall on Cloggy - the essay in Hard Rock just does it for me.
Keep up the good work team!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
In reply to mattrm: As mentioned a better week.
M - routes @ The Ice Factor (first time doing routes for ages so was decidedly poor.)
T - Ben Nevis: Slingsby's Chimney (v thin) & NE Buttress (quality!) with the bonus of sunshine on the summit.
W - travel
T - boulder (another red 'V5-7' bloc ticked, 2 left.)
F - rest
S - boulder (another one ticked.)
S - boulder (slow progess on the last one of the circuit.)
Looking forward to the reset in a week. Also should be able to get outdoors although I still haven't really sorted out any local partners.
In that vein is anyone free Mon to Wed this week? Either for routres at Reading, MK or Oxford or sport in Dorset or Avon/Cheddar/Break etc..
M - routes @ The Ice Factor (first time doing routes for ages so was decidedly poor.)
T - Ben Nevis: Slingsby's Chimney (v thin) & NE Buttress (quality!) with the bonus of sunshine on the summit.
W - travel
T - boulder (another red 'V5-7' bloc ticked, 2 left.)
F - rest
S - boulder (another one ticked.)
S - boulder (slow progess on the last one of the circuit.)
Looking forward to the reset in a week. Also should be able to get outdoors although I still haven't really sorted out any local partners.
In that vein is anyone free Mon to Wed this week? Either for routres at Reading, MK or Oxford or sport in Dorset or Avon/Cheddar/Break etc..
In reply to mattrm:
Another poor week, this time due to work.
M: Decided I needed a rest, wrong move given how the rest of the week went.
T: Routes at Stockport, new routes usual random grades. I didn't get up anything.
W: Usual hour on the Excercise bike, level 13, felt hard so didn't increase to 14.
T: work in Nottingham, didn't get back in time for anything
F: Had to go out
S: Work, gym and walls both closed by time I'm finished.
S: Bike, 22km on road then 23km of the Mary Townley Loop. Managed OK but can't see myself managing the full 75km of the full Loop anytime soon
This week is going to be another disjointed one, Durham tomorrow overnight with work and next weekend isn't looking good either
Another poor week, this time due to work.
M: Decided I needed a rest, wrong move given how the rest of the week went.
T: Routes at Stockport, new routes usual random grades. I didn't get up anything.
W: Usual hour on the Excercise bike, level 13, felt hard so didn't increase to 14.
T: work in Nottingham, didn't get back in time for anything
F: Had to go out
S: Work, gym and walls both closed by time I'm finished.
S: Bike, 22km on road then 23km of the Mary Townley Loop. Managed OK but can't see myself managing the full 75km of the full Loop anytime soon
This week is going to be another disjointed one, Durham tomorrow overnight with work and next weekend isn't looking good either
In reply to flopsicle:
Regards the volume of autobelay laps you're doing on jugs - do you have issues with the skin on your little fingers?
I managed 75 laps the other week and I've basically de-gloved the end pad on the right pinkie (old injury) and the rest of the skin on both of them isn't too happy. I've sort of convinced myself it's because my other three fingers can fit in/around the holds but the small 'uns end up resting on the lip. It might just be me...
Regards the volume of autobelay laps you're doing on jugs - do you have issues with the skin on your little fingers?
I managed 75 laps the other week and I've basically de-gloved the end pad on the right pinkie (old injury) and the rest of the skin on both of them isn't too happy. I've sort of convinced myself it's because my other three fingers can fit in/around the holds but the small 'uns end up resting on the lip. It might just be me...
In reply to AJM:
or those finger tip protector things. There are climbing specific ones I think to cover split tips, but wouldn't those little pimply rubber thimble ones that people who are dealing with large amount of paperwork use possibly work?
or those finger tip protector things. There are climbing specific ones I think to cover split tips, but wouldn't those little pimply rubber thimble ones that people who are dealing with large amount of paperwork use possibly work?
In reply to mrchewy:
Both routes have 2 or 3 jugs max (from memory!), a fair few big but neutral holds, 1cm positve crimps but wide enough for multiple fingers, nothing uber sharp, teeny or mono. The climbs both followed a bit of a theme for lateral body position changes, alternating side pulls. That's my first ever attempt to describe climbs in words so sorry if it's gobble de gook!
If your routes were anything like the above then it might be a style thing as I've done 50 laps prior on 3 harder routes and not had any skin damage - had no skin damage from 111 laps in one week this week + other climbs.
I've spent the last 6 mths with saving my fingers as the main focus for technique. Last summer I was joking about arthritis that didn't hurt in my fingers - winter stopped my jests! Around autumn I decided not to even start finger board training as I kind of got it would be a bit dumb. I also stopped avoiding sloper climbs, made myself practice on the horrible things, stopped any usage of cheeky crimps (where it's bleedin' obvious it isn't made to be crimped but....), practised finding ways to involve as much of my hands as possible, practised hands free climbing for footwork, using my feet to prop and balance to take strain off hands, seeing if I can keep using the hand hold I'm about to leave longer (don't know if that makes sense - but it was a revelation to me!), getting my thumbs involved in ways other than over the top of my fingers (thumb over fingers on a crimp pulls full force onto the worst joints ), generally trying to learn fast.
The above together with quite thickened finger tips mean I can't imagine being able to carry on enough to deglove my finger tips (that sound SO OWEY!).
Both routes have 2 or 3 jugs max (from memory!), a fair few big but neutral holds, 1cm positve crimps but wide enough for multiple fingers, nothing uber sharp, teeny or mono. The climbs both followed a bit of a theme for lateral body position changes, alternating side pulls. That's my first ever attempt to describe climbs in words so sorry if it's gobble de gook!
If your routes were anything like the above then it might be a style thing as I've done 50 laps prior on 3 harder routes and not had any skin damage - had no skin damage from 111 laps in one week this week + other climbs.
I've spent the last 6 mths with saving my fingers as the main focus for technique. Last summer I was joking about arthritis that didn't hurt in my fingers - winter stopped my jests! Around autumn I decided not to even start finger board training as I kind of got it would be a bit dumb. I also stopped avoiding sloper climbs, made myself practice on the horrible things, stopped any usage of cheeky crimps (where it's bleedin' obvious it isn't made to be crimped but....), practised finding ways to involve as much of my hands as possible, practised hands free climbing for footwork, using my feet to prop and balance to take strain off hands, seeing if I can keep using the hand hold I'm about to leave longer (don't know if that makes sense - but it was a revelation to me!), getting my thumbs involved in ways other than over the top of my fingers (thumb over fingers on a crimp pulls full force onto the worst joints ), generally trying to learn fast.
The above together with quite thickened finger tips mean I can't imagine being able to carry on enough to deglove my finger tips (that sound SO OWEY!).
In reply to mrchewy:
I found that juggy aero-cap made me grow some big callus' on my hands, which i then had to be careful about sanding to avoid them being torn off with catastrophic results.
Foot-on campus'ing was the worst for me in terms of pain - needed lots of tape on my (relatively short) pinkies to avoid blisters/blood blisters
I found that juggy aero-cap made me grow some big callus' on my hands, which i then had to be careful about sanding to avoid them being torn off with catastrophic results.
Foot-on campus'ing was the worst for me in terms of pain - needed lots of tape on my (relatively short) pinkies to avoid blisters/blood blisters
In reply to mattrm:
Rest week.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- 36 Chambers, 7C
- Be Ruthless sit, 7C+
- In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Increase An-cap
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
STG (next week)
- Finish off home campus board assemble
- Do a foot-on lactate test
- Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders
Last week:
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - More rest
T - Early start for London day trip – stayed strong and rejected the free beer on offer in the train and mustered the motivation to boulder at Stockport. Majority of V6 and V7 circuits. One pesky V6 I couldn’t do; stopped before I trashed myself. Reasonable strength for post routes trip, but shoulder blade winging out at times – something for the masseuse next week.
F - Rest
S - Malham. Consenting x2 warm-up. Unjustifed x2 dog. Good headwall links on TR on 2nd go, but once again struggling to engage with the crux sidepull/pinch. Maybe hip flexibility thing stopping me getting my weight over the foothold? Something Stupid x3 TR to warm-down and get it wired again. Need to break in some new Malham boots.
S - Drove to Mansfield to buy a new car. Skoda Octavia VRS – goes like S*** off a shovel! Plantation on way home. Pebble Arete L & R, Green Trav and then Dope on a Slope for the first time. Could never keep legs off the boulder swinging around the arête before (4 years ago) so good to see the difference in strength over that time frame. Got spanked by Captain Hook.
Phoned home and got told parents remaining cat had passed away – not the best Mothers Day
Rest week.
BHAG (2016 and beyond):
- “La Geurre Sainte” 7b/+ multi-pitch in Wadi Rum
- Hard sport multi-pitch (8a region?) – something in Taghia maybe, or Pillar del Cantabrico on the Naranja de Bulnes?
- True North, Kilnsey – possibly too far outside my comfort zone in terms of style to be a 2015 goal
- Oliana super routes – Feb 2016 – La Marroncita (8b), Humildes pa casa (8b+), Fisheye (8c), Mind Control (8c), La Morenita (8c+)
- Kaa’bah, 8c+ - gotta aim high!
LTG (2015):
- Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Great Glen/West Highland way?)
>8b+ RP – cherry pick from the list below
- Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
- Waddage & Mecca (and possibly the extension), Ravens Tor.
>8a on-sight (turns out the lattice board is very non-linear and I need to aim for 110 moves for 8a+ OS; Eek!)
- Aim for 72kg RP fighting weight
MTG (Mar/Apr/May):
- Finish off all the remaining routes at Brean; 7c, 8a & 8a+/b link-ups
- Reacquaint myself with the ‘bren and climb the 8b link-up project there
- Reacquaint myself with Unjustified
- 36 Chambers, 7C
- Be Ruthless sit, 7C+
- In Heaven (8A/+) via the dodgy lanky beta
- Get stronger - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime - as much about being a skinny wretch as it is having strong digits it seems
- Increase An-cap
- Decorate the house & build some home training facilities
STG (next week)
- Finish off home campus board assemble
- Do a foot-on lactate test
- Fix/sports massage on hip flexor & shoulders
Last week:
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - More rest
T - Early start for London day trip – stayed strong and rejected the free beer on offer in the train and mustered the motivation to boulder at Stockport. Majority of V6 and V7 circuits. One pesky V6 I couldn’t do; stopped before I trashed myself. Reasonable strength for post routes trip, but shoulder blade winging out at times – something for the masseuse next week.
F - Rest
S - Malham. Consenting x2 warm-up. Unjustifed x2 dog. Good headwall links on TR on 2nd go, but once again struggling to engage with the crux sidepull/pinch. Maybe hip flexibility thing stopping me getting my weight over the foothold? Something Stupid x3 TR to warm-down and get it wired again. Need to break in some new Malham boots.
S - Drove to Mansfield to buy a new car. Skoda Octavia VRS – goes like S*** off a shovel! Plantation on way home. Pebble Arete L & R, Green Trav and then Dope on a Slope for the first time. Could never keep legs off the boulder swinging around the arête before (4 years ago) so good to see the difference in strength over that time frame. Got spanked by Captain Hook.
Phoned home and got told parents remaining cat had passed away – not the best Mothers Day
In reply to AJM:
Andy, try experimenting with the position of your pinky when 3 finger dragging. I used to get no end of trouble in that position, which is a drag (ahem) for someone who gets as many pulley injuries as me.
On one of my hands I have to curl the pinky up and hyper extend it at the joint closest to the palm. Google some images of Dave Graham on three fingers, he does the same. It does improve as you get stronger open handed but it took me at least a year to get strong enough open that I can get away with not curling the pinky. No scientific explanation available I'm afraid but I'm sure it's something to do with the ring finger.
Andy, try experimenting with the position of your pinky when 3 finger dragging. I used to get no end of trouble in that position, which is a drag (ahem) for someone who gets as many pulley injuries as me.
On one of my hands I have to curl the pinky up and hyper extend it at the joint closest to the palm. Google some images of Dave Graham on three fingers, he does the same. It does improve as you get stronger open handed but it took me at least a year to get strong enough open that I can get away with not curling the pinky. No scientific explanation available I'm afraid but I'm sure it's something to do with the ring finger.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt, DIY season is officially here! I did manage to get some boring climbing done too though...
M: Birthday! Treated myself to running intervals and fingerboard, what a lucky boy I am
T: Strength and Conditioning
W: Indoor routes; 16 routes up to 7a+ (supposed to be 25, oops)
T: Boulder up to V7, fingerboard and offset pull ups (66/72 complete)
F: Rest
S: DIY club is go! Laid 65m^2 of lawn and turned my shed around.
S: Indoor routes; 4x4, turned into 3x4 but still really good.
Monday running intervals went well, I have achieved my first measurable improvement in my cardio fitness! Managed to knock an average of about 5 seconds off each interval (its about 250m) which pleased me greatly. I'm still probably running about 6 or 7 minute mile pace but over a much shorter distance so it's still terrible, but slightly less terrible than before.
Offset pull ups went well again on Thursday, managed 2 more than last week, I still surprise myself with how many I can do, especially 1-4's on the smaller rungs.
Got my lawn down in record time on Saturday, I was drinking beer whilst watering it by 3pm, good result. I used the early finish to get my shed turned around, for some reason when I built it I faced the door towards the house instead of towards the garden, no idea why.
4x4's on Sunday at Calshot, only did 3x4's in the end as my elbow was just feeling a little bit delicate so I didn't want to push it.
Ended up being a really good session regardless, 6b+ x4, 6c+ x4, 7a x4. The 7a was long and sustained and the last lap was agonising but I was really pleased to get through the full 4 laps.
I'm not sure how to describe the feeling on the last lap or two, there wasn't significant pump or power fade, it just made my forearms burn more and more but I was able to climb through it and keep going. It was hard to convince myself to keep going but every new hold I reached felt solid, I never felt in danger of peeling off, it was just painful to continue (but a good pain).
Finger feels really good, elbows are doing just fine, I think I could actually describe myself as currently uninjured! We'll see how long that lasts...
Still no news from Ninja warrior, today is the last day to hear back so it looksl ike it could be a big fat no, rubbish.
> Dandan82 - DIY Club is go! And some boring climbing stuff
Thanks Matt, DIY season is officially here! I did manage to get some boring climbing done too though...
M: Birthday! Treated myself to running intervals and fingerboard, what a lucky boy I am
T: Strength and Conditioning
W: Indoor routes; 16 routes up to 7a+ (supposed to be 25, oops)
T: Boulder up to V7, fingerboard and offset pull ups (66/72 complete)
F: Rest
S: DIY club is go! Laid 65m^2 of lawn and turned my shed around.
S: Indoor routes; 4x4, turned into 3x4 but still really good.
Monday running intervals went well, I have achieved my first measurable improvement in my cardio fitness! Managed to knock an average of about 5 seconds off each interval (its about 250m) which pleased me greatly. I'm still probably running about 6 or 7 minute mile pace but over a much shorter distance so it's still terrible, but slightly less terrible than before.
Offset pull ups went well again on Thursday, managed 2 more than last week, I still surprise myself with how many I can do, especially 1-4's on the smaller rungs.
Got my lawn down in record time on Saturday, I was drinking beer whilst watering it by 3pm, good result. I used the early finish to get my shed turned around, for some reason when I built it I faced the door towards the house instead of towards the garden, no idea why.
4x4's on Sunday at Calshot, only did 3x4's in the end as my elbow was just feeling a little bit delicate so I didn't want to push it.
Ended up being a really good session regardless, 6b+ x4, 6c+ x4, 7a x4. The 7a was long and sustained and the last lap was agonising but I was really pleased to get through the full 4 laps.
I'm not sure how to describe the feeling on the last lap or two, there wasn't significant pump or power fade, it just made my forearms burn more and more but I was able to climb through it and keep going. It was hard to convince myself to keep going but every new hold I reached felt solid, I never felt in danger of peeling off, it was just painful to continue (but a good pain).
Finger feels really good, elbows are doing just fine, I think I could actually describe myself as currently uninjured! We'll see how long that lasts...
Still no news from Ninja warrior, today is the last day to hear back so it looksl ike it could be a big fat no, rubbish.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for the book suggestion Matt. I'll get it.
I think I have done enough running now to aim for a time, even though this (the Classic Quarter, 44 miles) will be further than I have ever gone. In the last Grizzly, I managed 9:50 pace over 19 miles of similar terrain - none of the CQ is as boggy or shingly as is some of the Grizzly but then very little is on tarmac, and the ascent per mile is no worse - and so 10:50 pace, which would get me there in 8 hours, doesn't seem so unreasonable. On the other hand, 8 hours would put me in the top 5%, whereas I was top 11% for the Grizzly, so may be it is! Then again, I did just under 6 hours for the 32 miles/6000ft RAT, and I have done loads of running, including off-road and ascent since then, so maybe it isn't!
Two factors would make me give up - exhaustion, and the feeling that I was stuck in a never-ending torment extending to beyond my event horizon. I need to find a pace that is the best balance between those two.
Thanks for the book suggestion Matt. I'll get it.
I think I have done enough running now to aim for a time, even though this (the Classic Quarter, 44 miles) will be further than I have ever gone. In the last Grizzly, I managed 9:50 pace over 19 miles of similar terrain - none of the CQ is as boggy or shingly as is some of the Grizzly but then very little is on tarmac, and the ascent per mile is no worse - and so 10:50 pace, which would get me there in 8 hours, doesn't seem so unreasonable. On the other hand, 8 hours would put me in the top 5%, whereas I was top 11% for the Grizzly, so may be it is! Then again, I did just under 6 hours for the 32 miles/6000ft RAT, and I have done loads of running, including off-road and ascent since then, so maybe it isn't!
Two factors would make me give up - exhaustion, and the feeling that I was stuck in a never-ending torment extending to beyond my event horizon. I need to find a pace that is the best balance between those two.
In reply to mattrm:
M-Fingerboard, campus session and boulders. Finished with a set of core.
T-Core Session
W-Board session and campus runs. Finished with fingerboard and a set of core.
T-Rest
F-Comp. Came third on the night but managed to get pretty close on something that felt ~8Aish. Won the winter league overall.
S-Rest
S-Parisellas. Felt battered from Friday night. Managed to send Trigger Cut pretty quick (no knees obviously) before having a few burns on Hatchatrocity. Fell off the last move of Rock twice and felt like it was probably time for home. Not massively keen for any of the long link-ups to be honest. If I go back I'll be trying the actual boulder problems like Armstong and and Clyde. Think they're too hard at the minute and I can't be bothered to have a project as far as the cave.
M-Fingerboard, campus session and boulders. Finished with a set of core.
T-Core Session
W-Board session and campus runs. Finished with fingerboard and a set of core.
T-Rest
F-Comp. Came third on the night but managed to get pretty close on something that felt ~8Aish. Won the winter league overall.
S-Rest
S-Parisellas. Felt battered from Friday night. Managed to send Trigger Cut pretty quick (no knees obviously) before having a few burns on Hatchatrocity. Fell off the last move of Rock twice and felt like it was probably time for home. Not massively keen for any of the long link-ups to be honest. If I go back I'll be trying the actual boulder problems like Armstong and and Clyde. Think they're too hard at the minute and I can't be bothered to have a project as far as the cave.
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
M - Resting.
T - General conditioning and core exercises.
W - Resting.
T - Outside climbing; training session: 6a+ x3, 6b x3, 6b+ x1, 6c x1, first half of 7a+ x 2.
F - Resting.
S - 30 min run.
S - Fingerboard session.
Cheers Matt.
M - Resting.
T - General conditioning and core exercises.
W - Resting.
T - Outside climbing; training session: 6a+ x3, 6b x3, 6b+ x1, 6c x1, first half of 7a+ x 2.
F - Resting.
S - 30 min run.
S - Fingerboard session.
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
A reasonable week but think I picked up a mild cold at the end of it
M- run in the woods before work, went further than I have before so that's good. Tca after work, not so good, worked on a V4 for ages that I still haven't quite finished. Made some progress on the 6c+ circuit
T- cycled to work for first time and got the legs burning. A more sedate cycle back and stopped off for some traversing at new quarry, nearly linked everything now. Very relaxed bouldering at tca in the evening
W- mile swim after work-46 minutes. Can do better. Will start training for tri distance 1500m, 40 min should be very achievable soon
T- back on shakin like a leaf at cheddar. Had a warm up on the route while getting acquainted with the harder moves then sent it 1st rp. Felt easy, even with starting to do the crux wrong, down climbing and doing it right
F- rest, drove to Cornwall
S- trad at bosigran, paragon hvs and suicide wall e1 5c. Pleased to lead the crux with no major drama absolutely awesome route
S- trad sennen, pretty poor conditions so top roped a lovely e3 and a crack line e2. Wanted to lead Samson arête but too dangerous with big seas
I think for current training I am going to do one run, one hard cycle and one swim a week, with a view to combining things, cycle/run to and from pool etc. And the rest climbing. When triathlon gets nearer start upping the frequency.
Also have a garmin thingy now so can work out how far Im running etc. Also have my mums triathlon time to beat, 3h 6min
STG- 3 mile run this week ideally. Try and do get that man 7a in one session
MTG- more v4s. Tick 7b. 25 mile bicycle. 2km swim under an hour and 1500m under 40min.
LTG- 7b+, E2, onsight 6c+, triathlon
Thanks Matt.
A reasonable week but think I picked up a mild cold at the end of it
M- run in the woods before work, went further than I have before so that's good. Tca after work, not so good, worked on a V4 for ages that I still haven't quite finished. Made some progress on the 6c+ circuit
T- cycled to work for first time and got the legs burning. A more sedate cycle back and stopped off for some traversing at new quarry, nearly linked everything now. Very relaxed bouldering at tca in the evening
W- mile swim after work-46 minutes. Can do better. Will start training for tri distance 1500m, 40 min should be very achievable soon
T- back on shakin like a leaf at cheddar. Had a warm up on the route while getting acquainted with the harder moves then sent it 1st rp. Felt easy, even with starting to do the crux wrong, down climbing and doing it right
F- rest, drove to Cornwall
S- trad at bosigran, paragon hvs and suicide wall e1 5c. Pleased to lead the crux with no major drama absolutely awesome route
S- trad sennen, pretty poor conditions so top roped a lovely e3 and a crack line e2. Wanted to lead Samson arête but too dangerous with big seas
I think for current training I am going to do one run, one hard cycle and one swim a week, with a view to combining things, cycle/run to and from pool etc. And the rest climbing. When triathlon gets nearer start upping the frequency.
Also have a garmin thingy now so can work out how far Im running etc. Also have my mums triathlon time to beat, 3h 6min
STG- 3 mile run this week ideally. Try and do get that man 7a in one session
MTG- more v4s. Tick 7b. 25 mile bicycle. 2km swim under an hour and 1500m under 40min.
LTG- 7b+, E2, onsight 6c+, triathlon
In reply to flopsicle: and AJM and Ally and hms!
It may be you have way tougher skin than me. The de-gloved thing has been an issue since I started climbing, pull hard and that's it loose for a while. Tried the glove thing the other day and it felt rubbish. Lots of tape in future I guess...
Ally - foot on campusing is the only thing that's helped me acquire a blood blister, the sheer repetition I guess. I can't imagine how mullered the fingers would be if the rails were made of plastic...
It may be you have way tougher skin than me. The de-gloved thing has been an issue since I started climbing, pull hard and that's it loose for a while. Tried the glove thing the other day and it felt rubbish. Lots of tape in future I guess...
Ally - foot on campusing is the only thing that's helped me acquire a blood blister, the sheer repetition I guess. I can't imagine how mullered the fingers would be if the rails were made of plastic...
In reply to mbh:
Only done one ultra (112k) but I was told to ignore the distance and break it up into smaller segments - it helped hugely. Food stops were every 15k or so, that was my focus. Eat something, reset the 'clock' to zero and head for the next one. If I'd have dwelt on the fact I was literally crossing the country... it would have probably been overwhelming.
Exhaustion? Eat enough and drink enough and it won't be an issue, unless of course you go off like a mad march hare. From my brief flirtation with running quite a way, it's the mental commitment to keep ticking away those segments that people struggle with.
> Two factors would make me give up - exhaustion, and the feeling that I was stuck in a never-ending torment extending to beyond my event horizon.
Only done one ultra (112k) but I was told to ignore the distance and break it up into smaller segments - it helped hugely. Food stops were every 15k or so, that was my focus. Eat something, reset the 'clock' to zero and head for the next one. If I'd have dwelt on the fact I was literally crossing the country... it would have probably been overwhelming.
Exhaustion? Eat enough and drink enough and it won't be an issue, unless of course you go off like a mad march hare. From my brief flirtation with running quite a way, it's the mental commitment to keep ticking away those segments that people struggle with.
1
In reply to mrchewy:
That all makes sense. I'm thinking of it as 4 x 11 mile runs, and not as one 44 mile run, which would crush me. Even for an 18-20 miles run, which I've done a few of recently, I have to break it down into small targets. All the time, I try to accentuate the positive, thinking of what I have done rather than what is ahead, and trying to push away the thought that there are better things to do with the next several hours than slog away in varying stages of snot-covered degradation.
A target time will keep me focussed, and give me sums to do in my head as I go along which will keep me occupied, but has its dangers. Whatever I told myself at the time about the pain in my foot and so on, I DNFd at 32k on a 50k last year because I knew I was fading and wasn't going to make my previous time, and the prospect of going on seemed no fun. At least this time it's a blank slate, so whatever time I do will be my best time.
That all makes sense. I'm thinking of it as 4 x 11 mile runs, and not as one 44 mile run, which would crush me. Even for an 18-20 miles run, which I've done a few of recently, I have to break it down into small targets. All the time, I try to accentuate the positive, thinking of what I have done rather than what is ahead, and trying to push away the thought that there are better things to do with the next several hours than slog away in varying stages of snot-covered degradation.
A target time will keep me focussed, and give me sums to do in my head as I go along which will keep me occupied, but has its dangers. Whatever I told myself at the time about the pain in my foot and so on, I DNFd at 32k on a 50k last year because I knew I was fading and wasn't going to make my previous time, and the prospect of going on seemed no fun. At least this time it's a blank slate, so whatever time I do will be my best time.
1
In reply to flopsicle:
I could! Hopefully it won't be like my allotment barbecue raffle. where after the first few prizes have gone, you're kind of hoping that your number doesn't come up...
I could! Hopefully it won't be like my allotment barbecue raffle. where after the first few prizes have gone, you're kind of hoping that your number doesn't come up...
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing fit club again Matt.
Aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 45min continual dry tooling, (winter endurance and technique.) pm - 45min road run, (winter endurance)
T: am - 1hr 10min fell run (winter endurance)
W: 1hr PE and core at the wall - short session but showed me what could be packed in if necessary. A good session.
T: Work late
F: Work late
S: Work late
S: 1hr 15min PE and core at wall
OK week. Working late meant kissing off Saturday on the Ben, which was a bit gutting, but such is life!
Thanks for doing fit club again Matt.
Aims:
Winter VI 7 - Tick.
Spring 7b RP - Countash, Mill Side Scar
Summer quick build through E1 / E2 to get on some more E3s and consolidate at the grade
Summer -get on some slate
Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow
M: am - 45min continual dry tooling, (winter endurance and technique.) pm - 45min road run, (winter endurance)
T: am - 1hr 10min fell run (winter endurance)
W: 1hr PE and core at the wall - short session but showed me what could be packed in if necessary. A good session.
T: Work late
F: Work late
S: Work late
S: 1hr 15min PE and core at wall
OK week. Working late meant kissing off Saturday on the Ben, which was a bit gutting, but such is life!
1
In reply to mbh:
It's always about positivity, that's such a big thing. Visualization was maybe the thing that tipped the balance for me - I knew, absolutely knew I could get to the end. Not down to my training (which was crap) but I'd imagined every scenario, from broken bones in my foot, to the sole of my trainer falling off and had ridiculous plans put in place to finish. Some utter madness but it allowed me to think 'it doesn't matter what happens, I've got it covered'.
One thing I did read, can't remember where tho, was to finish a segment and then forget it. Put it out of mind and move on. Basically to view the start of each segment as if you were just starting your first run of the day - otherwise as the race lengthens, looking backwards at your success can become slightly overwhelming too.
Really quite envious - I miss running.
It's always about positivity, that's such a big thing. Visualization was maybe the thing that tipped the balance for me - I knew, absolutely knew I could get to the end. Not down to my training (which was crap) but I'd imagined every scenario, from broken bones in my foot, to the sole of my trainer falling off and had ridiculous plans put in place to finish. Some utter madness but it allowed me to think 'it doesn't matter what happens, I've got it covered'.
One thing I did read, can't remember where tho, was to finish a segment and then forget it. Put it out of mind and move on. Basically to view the start of each segment as if you were just starting your first run of the day - otherwise as the race lengthens, looking backwards at your success can become slightly overwhelming too.
Really quite envious - I miss running.
1
In reply to mbh:
Morning Camper,
If there's any chance you can prepractice the course (in sections) so you know what you're up against that'll really help. It'll mean that you know what you need to keep in the tank for later, how nails you are for doing all the gnarly stuff so far and also help you fantasise about all the raptuous applause and deafening cheering you'll get as you cross the line. When I've done long runs, I'll even break bigger climbs (half an hour or more) down into sections to make them seem more achieveable and also give me a better idea as to whether my pace is OK/I'm on schedule. Speaking of which, I amuse myself for hours trying to work out possible timings, distances and paces as I go, it really passes the time!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
Morning Camper,
If there's any chance you can prepractice the course (in sections) so you know what you're up against that'll really help. It'll mean that you know what you need to keep in the tank for later, how nails you are for doing all the gnarly stuff so far and also help you fantasise about all the raptuous applause and deafening cheering you'll get as you cross the line. When I've done long runs, I'll even break bigger climbs (half an hour or more) down into sections to make them seem more achieveable and also give me a better idea as to whether my pace is OK/I'm on schedule. Speaking of which, I amuse myself for hours trying to work out possible timings, distances and paces as I go, it really passes the time!
Love from,
Joyce,
XXXX
1
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks for doing FC Matt. A pity that you didn´t have time for more climbing last week.
STG (2weeks): Tick all the routes from the spring 2014 book up to 6B (+) -> tick up to 6B and one +
MTG (summer): climb more outside
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade)
weight: 68/70 kg
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7- or 7 outside
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
Weight: 73.0
M: indoor bouldering, ticked everything up to 6B from the spring 2014 book and one medium problem on the regular wall.
T: 3 times running up the small bump in my neighbourhood, felt better than last time.
W: outside bouldering, didn’t manage the slopey heelhook topout on a 6A.
T: skitouring.
F: outside climbing, did my first ever n6- and it was onsight as well.
S: outside bouldering, warmed up on a 5+ and 6A, then did a new 6B and 6B+ in one session, really happy with that, than tried another 6B, but didn’t manage to top because of heelhook, so I know where I need to practice.
S: outside climbing, just 3 easy routes that didn’t where in the guidebook
Thanks for doing FC Matt. A pity that you didn´t have time for more climbing last week.
STG (2weeks): Tick all the routes from the spring 2014 book up to 6B (+) -> tick up to 6B and one +
MTG (summer): climb more outside
steady climb grade 6 outdoors (Norwegian grade)
weight: 68/70 kg
LTG (end of the year): climb a grade 7- or 7 outside
Lead OS grade 6 indoor (though grading indoor is a bit soft, maybe 6+/7-)
Weight: 73.0
M: indoor bouldering, ticked everything up to 6B from the spring 2014 book and one medium problem on the regular wall.
T: 3 times running up the small bump in my neighbourhood, felt better than last time.
W: outside bouldering, didn’t manage the slopey heelhook topout on a 6A.
T: skitouring.
F: outside climbing, did my first ever n6- and it was onsight as well.
S: outside bouldering, warmed up on a 5+ and 6A, then did a new 6B and 6B+ in one session, really happy with that, than tried another 6B, but didn’t manage to top because of heelhook, so I know where I need to practice.
S: outside climbing, just 3 easy routes that didn’t where in the guidebook
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
Another solid week of training. The gym ball routine feels like it’s doing good for all aspects of core, it’s been relatively easy so far, but the toughness is ramping up as I progress through the weeks.
I think I’m going to declare this week a bit of a rest week, as I’m feeling quite tired, and the psyche for indoors is fading. It will also allow my skin to fully heal up and then within a week or two it should be light enough to get outside after work!
M - Rest/sawing through a piano….Also did some foam rollering, as something I did on Sunday hammered my glutes. Ow, my ass...
T - Rest/still sawing through a piano….
W - Wk 3 of gym ball routine.
Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (0kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (0kg), 35° sloper (-1kg).
+1kg on ½ crimp and front 3 open
5x5 pull ups (+7kg). 5x5 push ups (+8kg).
T - Wall - Limit bouldering. Up to about v5.
F - Wk 3 of gym ball routine.
S - Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+1kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (0kg), 35° sloper (-1kg).
+1kg on ½ crimp
S - Wall. Aero Power session route doubles. 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c. 10 min rest. 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b. Collapse.
Thanks Matt.
Another solid week of training. The gym ball routine feels like it’s doing good for all aspects of core, it’s been relatively easy so far, but the toughness is ramping up as I progress through the weeks.
I think I’m going to declare this week a bit of a rest week, as I’m feeling quite tired, and the psyche for indoors is fading. It will also allow my skin to fully heal up and then within a week or two it should be light enough to get outside after work!
M - Rest/sawing through a piano….Also did some foam rollering, as something I did on Sunday hammered my glutes. Ow, my ass...
T - Rest/still sawing through a piano….
W - Wk 3 of gym ball routine.
Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (0kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (0kg), 35° sloper (-1kg).
+1kg on ½ crimp and front 3 open
5x5 pull ups (+7kg). 5x5 push ups (+8kg).
T - Wall - Limit bouldering. Up to about v5.
F - Wk 3 of gym ball routine.
S - Max hangs. 2 sets of 3 hangs per grip. 1 min between hangs. 3 mins between grips.
1/2 crimp 20mm edge (+1kg), front 3 open 20mm edge (0kg), 35° sloper (-1kg).
+1kg on ½ crimp
S - Wall. Aero Power session route doubles. 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c. 10 min rest. 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6b. Collapse.
In reply to Dandan:
My girlfriend decided that she wanted to convert her old family heirloom upright piano into a storage cupboard. It'll be really easy she said, all we need to do is take the old iron harp out the middle and put some shelves in it...
From what I could tell the piano builders seemed to just bolt and glue around the iron, and the only way I could figure to get it out was to basically saw around it. So about 3 evenings worth of sawing 8 feet straight down through 6 inch thick timber...
My girlfriend decided that she wanted to convert her old family heirloom upright piano into a storage cupboard. It'll be really easy she said, all we need to do is take the old iron harp out the middle and put some shelves in it...
From what I could tell the piano builders seemed to just bolt and glue around the iron, and the only way I could figure to get it out was to basically saw around it. So about 3 evenings worth of sawing 8 feet straight down through 6 inch thick timber...
Post edited at 14:31
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt! A bit of a rubbish week here as predicted on the training side. However I did talk about Alex Honnold to an audience of over 600 people and proofread the new Eastern Grit so that’s climbing-related achievement.
M - rest
T - Long mixed session Brookes. A few new leads, boulder problems and then hangboard.
W - Presented Banff Film Festival in Reading so poncing around talking about climbing rather than doing...
T - Short mixed session Brookes. A few new leads, boulder problems and then hangboard.
F - rest
S - Routes Westway on the way to wedding in London. I never get the grades there!
S - sucked into mother's day so pottering round National Trust gardens. Bah.
Thanks Matt! A bit of a rubbish week here as predicted on the training side. However I did talk about Alex Honnold to an audience of over 600 people and proofread the new Eastern Grit so that’s climbing-related achievement.
M - rest
T - Long mixed session Brookes. A few new leads, boulder problems and then hangboard.
W - Presented Banff Film Festival in Reading so poncing around talking about climbing rather than doing...
T - Short mixed session Brookes. A few new leads, boulder problems and then hangboard.
F - rest
S - Routes Westway on the way to wedding in London. I never get the grades there!
S - sucked into mother's day so pottering round National Trust gardens. Bah.
In reply to mattrm:
Yeah, at least 2 pegs would have to pull out for a deck at that point. The lurgy is nearly gone. Last week really took it out of me, with the combination of work, travel and a cold.
M - ill. Travel to Boston.
T - feeling a little better. Managed to sneak in an hour or so bouldering at the Harvard Wall
W - ill. The cold came back with a vengeance following the bouldering session
T - ill. Conference.
F - ill. Conference.
S - improving. Drove 16 hours (between 2 of us) Boston to Red River Gorge
S - First day climbing. Still couldn't breathe properly. Chilled out on some pumpy 5.10s (low F6s)
On a rest day today. Hopefully getting on Jesus Wept (classic 5.12d (~7c)) tomorrow.
Goals
Jesus Wept, 5.12d, RRG
An ambitious goal, given that I'll probably only get 2 sessions on it, but aim high and all that... Super fun route too!
Brean progression to The Milky Bar Kid (8a)
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Tick off some of the harder Avon trad that I've not got round to yet
Peryl, Low Profile -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Central Wall, Main Wall Eliminate
Sort out the asymmetry
A bit of an ongoing thing
> Nick Russell - Trad lead falls? Beast. Recovered from the manflu?
Yeah, at least 2 pegs would have to pull out for a deck at that point. The lurgy is nearly gone. Last week really took it out of me, with the combination of work, travel and a cold.
M - ill. Travel to Boston.
T - feeling a little better. Managed to sneak in an hour or so bouldering at the Harvard Wall
W - ill. The cold came back with a vengeance following the bouldering session
T - ill. Conference.
F - ill. Conference.
S - improving. Drove 16 hours (between 2 of us) Boston to Red River Gorge
S - First day climbing. Still couldn't breathe properly. Chilled out on some pumpy 5.10s (low F6s)
On a rest day today. Hopefully getting on Jesus Wept (classic 5.12d (~7c)) tomorrow.
Goals
An ambitious goal, given that I'll probably only get 2 sessions on it, but aim high and all that... Super fun route too!
Prisoner of Conscience -> The Guilt Edge -> Bullworker -> Prisoner of Bullworker -> El Chocco -> The Milky Bar Kid
Peryl, Low Profile -> Think Pink, GT Special, Amanita, Central Wall, Main Wall Eliminate
A bit of an ongoing thing
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt, back from Portugal so two weeks from me:
Week 416
Mon: am – jog to work ~2M, pm – run home 8/9M in 58:54
Tu: am – jog to work 1/2M, lunchtime – 8.5M in 56:49 including 6x3min @75% off 1min jog, felt good, pm – run home 4.5M in 31:58
Wed: am – run to work, 6M in 39:29 felt good, pm – jog home 1/2M
Th: am – jog to work 1/2M, pm – jog home 1/2M
Fri: am – jog to work 1/2M
Sat: Intercounties XC. Very different from national champs: very mild, and mostly good underfoot with a few isolated boggy patches. Downhill start meant that the race went off like a rocket! First lap went twice up a long hill so tried to keep it steady but everyone else was flying along so had to push hard just to maintain position. From then on it was tough going on the remaining three small laps (didn’t have to go up the hill again thank goodness). Finished in 64th in 37:27 for the ~12K. Pretty pleased as it was a tougher field but got beaten by some folks I beat at the national – maybe just horses for courses!
Sun: Flew out to Portugal , arrived, got set up then did 8/9M easy in 60:51 – nice to be in the sun!
57M for the week, another goal ticked being well inside top 75 at intercounties so happy with that.
Week 417
Mon: am – did long run which hadn’t fitted in last week 1:47:17 including last 21mins a roughly half marathon effort (managed about 5:20miling), 15/16M total
Tues: am – 60:06 steady 8/9M, drills session and strides, pm – 32:09 pretty quick ~5M
Weds: am – Session: 1x5min,2x4min,3x3min,4x2min,5x1min off half rep recovery on grass, was tough! 10/11M total, pm – 32:32 easy 4/5M
Thurs: am 60:46 steady 8/9M, pm – 30:18 steady 4/5M
Fri: am – 71:35 steady, 10M drills session + strides, pm – 35:08 steady 5M
Sat: am – Session: 9min tempo (2min recovery), 8x90secs off 1min, (2min recovery), 9min tempo. Did the tempo on the road around a set course and managed roughly 5:10-15miling feeling good, did the 90sec reps on grass, 10M total, pm – 32:32 steady, 4/5M
Sun: am – very early run, 8M easy in 60:05 then fly home.
Great weeks training in the sun, wanted to stay for a second week! ~90M total, hadn’t realised I’d run that many miles as with all of the rest/sleep it didn’t feel that hard. Now need to have an easier week ahead of my half marathon debut
So far I've ticked all of my goals for 2015 so need to make sure I keep this up on Sunday!
Thanks Matt, back from Portugal so two weeks from me:
Week 416
Mon: am – jog to work ~2M, pm – run home 8/9M in 58:54
Tu: am – jog to work 1/2M, lunchtime – 8.5M in 56:49 including 6x3min @75% off 1min jog, felt good, pm – run home 4.5M in 31:58
Wed: am – run to work, 6M in 39:29 felt good, pm – jog home 1/2M
Th: am – jog to work 1/2M, pm – jog home 1/2M
Fri: am – jog to work 1/2M
Sat: Intercounties XC. Very different from national champs: very mild, and mostly good underfoot with a few isolated boggy patches. Downhill start meant that the race went off like a rocket! First lap went twice up a long hill so tried to keep it steady but everyone else was flying along so had to push hard just to maintain position. From then on it was tough going on the remaining three small laps (didn’t have to go up the hill again thank goodness). Finished in 64th in 37:27 for the ~12K. Pretty pleased as it was a tougher field but got beaten by some folks I beat at the national – maybe just horses for courses!
Sun: Flew out to Portugal , arrived, got set up then did 8/9M easy in 60:51 – nice to be in the sun!
57M for the week, another goal ticked being well inside top 75 at intercounties so happy with that.
Week 417
Mon: am – did long run which hadn’t fitted in last week 1:47:17 including last 21mins a roughly half marathon effort (managed about 5:20miling), 15/16M total
Tues: am – 60:06 steady 8/9M, drills session and strides, pm – 32:09 pretty quick ~5M
Weds: am – Session: 1x5min,2x4min,3x3min,4x2min,5x1min off half rep recovery on grass, was tough! 10/11M total, pm – 32:32 easy 4/5M
Thurs: am 60:46 steady 8/9M, pm – 30:18 steady 4/5M
Fri: am – 71:35 steady, 10M drills session + strides, pm – 35:08 steady 5M
Sat: am – Session: 9min tempo (2min recovery), 8x90secs off 1min, (2min recovery), 9min tempo. Did the tempo on the road around a set course and managed roughly 5:10-15miling feeling good, did the 90sec reps on grass, 10M total, pm – 32:32 steady, 4/5M
Sun: am – very early run, 8M easy in 60:05 then fly home.
Great weeks training in the sun, wanted to stay for a second week! ~90M total, hadn’t realised I’d run that many miles as with all of the rest/sleep it didn’t feel that hard. Now need to have an easier week ahead of my half marathon debut
So far I've ticked all of my goals for 2015 so need to make sure I keep this up on Sunday!
In reply to mbh:
You'll be great! Don't worry! I would second what camper Joyce said though: specifically go and run the last 11miles (or better still the second half) that familiarity will really help you feel like you are on the "home straight" because you'll know whats left rather than wondering how much further it is and you won'lt lose time due to navigation errors etc. The one ultra I did this really worked (doubly so as that section was at night so nav was also important).
Just look back at all of the training you've done and you'll know that you can easily do the distance, its just how fast you are going to do it. I was considering doing that at one stage (as a pair not solo) but then reasoned that the up and down would wreck me for a fortnight probably!
You'll be great! Don't worry! I would second what camper Joyce said though: specifically go and run the last 11miles (or better still the second half) that familiarity will really help you feel like you are on the "home straight" because you'll know whats left rather than wondering how much further it is and you won'lt lose time due to navigation errors etc. The one ultra I did this really worked (doubly so as that section was at night so nav was also important).
Just look back at all of the training you've done and you'll know that you can easily do the distance, its just how fast you are going to do it. I was considering doing that at one stage (as a pair not solo) but then reasoned that the up and down would wreck me for a fortnight probably!
In reply to flopsicle:
No, not that (yet). But the first thing to go is the booze, then at the end there are things like the doctored booze that we actually put in the raffle - a bottle of chocolate flavoured wine that some very soon to be ex-friends had brought along to our place once when they came for a meal.
No, not that (yet). But the first thing to go is the booze, then at the end there are things like the doctored booze that we actually put in the raffle - a bottle of chocolate flavoured wine that some very soon to be ex-friends had brought along to our place once when they came for a meal.
In reply to mattrm:
An odd question for Fit Club. Does anyone else teeth hurt when out exercising? Just cycled home today and have a pretty intense throbbing in my gums... Its subsiding but was pretty distracting at the time. Happens fairly frequently but tonight was quite noticeable!
An odd question for Fit Club. Does anyone else teeth hurt when out exercising? Just cycled home today and have a pretty intense throbbing in my gums... Its subsiding but was pretty distracting at the time. Happens fairly frequently but tonight was quite noticeable!
In reply to Cheese Monkey:
Not my teeth, but the whole top of my mouth can ache a lot when I get back and try to eat something.
Not my teeth, but the whole top of my mouth can ache a lot when I get back and try to eat something.
In reply to mrchewy:
>Basically to view the start of each segment as if you were just starting your first run of the day - otherwise as the race lengthens, looking backwards at your success can become slightly overwhelming too.
I think I get that. When I am out and faced with a big hill, I just think, right, now you're here, now you can eat into it, an hour or so ago you weren't even close and you still had the whole thing ahead of you. With every step I make it less of a hill by thinking how what remains is less than it was moments ago. Every step makes what remains less of a challenge. I just focus on that, without getting bogged down in what I've done.
>Basically to view the start of each segment as if you were just starting your first run of the day - otherwise as the race lengthens, looking backwards at your success can become slightly overwhelming too.
I think I get that. When I am out and faced with a big hill, I just think, right, now you're here, now you can eat into it, an hour or so ago you weren't even close and you still had the whole thing ahead of you. With every step I make it less of a hill by thinking how what remains is less than it was moments ago. Every step makes what remains less of a challenge. I just focus on that, without getting bogged down in what I've done.
1
In reply to Joyce:
I've run the first ten miles and walked the last ten and I know I've done much worse stretches than anything in between. It's only coast path, with an actual path, ice-cream shops, sign-posts and everything, not proper gnarly terrain where the ups go on for miles, the looming top ahead obscures the sky and you have to actually, like, navigate. You just keep the sea to the left, roll your eyes when yet another set of steps appears, then set to them. Before you know it, they're behind you. Tumbleweed may await, however, if you don't get to the end.
I spent most of the Grizzly working out what average pace I could afford over what remained, given what I'd managed so far, if I wanted to get my target time. Kept me occupied!
I've run the first ten miles and walked the last ten and I know I've done much worse stretches than anything in between. It's only coast path, with an actual path, ice-cream shops, sign-posts and everything, not proper gnarly terrain where the ups go on for miles, the looming top ahead obscures the sky and you have to actually, like, navigate. You just keep the sea to the left, roll your eyes when yet another set of steps appears, then set to them. Before you know it, they're behind you. Tumbleweed may await, however, if you don't get to the end.
I spent most of the Grizzly working out what average pace I could afford over what remained, given what I'd managed so far, if I wanted to get my target time. Kept me occupied!
In reply to mbh:
That's what you need to leg it for 44 miles - a zealous friend chasing you with chocolate flavoured wine!
That's what you need to leg it for 44 miles - a zealous friend chasing you with chocolate flavoured wine!
In reply to Humperdink:
Great couple of weeks for you!
Navigation won't be a problem. Follow the signs, stay on the path, keep the sea to the left! I'll try and run the last half in one, go, but logistics may force me to do it in two 20 miles-ish OAB stretches. Anyway, through climbing and camping I I've criss-crossed all of it past Lamorna over many years, and once you've run many a stretch of hilly, step-ridden SWCP, another bit just seems like more of the same, howevr pretty, so I know what to expect at the end.
Thanks for the encouragement!
Great couple of weeks for you!
Navigation won't be a problem. Follow the signs, stay on the path, keep the sea to the left! I'll try and run the last half in one, go, but logistics may force me to do it in two 20 miles-ish OAB stretches. Anyway, through climbing and camping I I've criss-crossed all of it past Lamorna over many years, and once you've run many a stretch of hilly, step-ridden SWCP, another bit just seems like more of the same, howevr pretty, so I know what to expect at the end.
Thanks for the encouragement!
In reply to mattrm:
Entered my first triathlon! TriBristol Sprint distance in June. Need to get started with open water swimming, any recommendations near Bristol?
Entered my first triathlon! TriBristol Sprint distance in June. Need to get started with open water swimming, any recommendations near Bristol?
Post edited at 22:50
In reply to mattrm:
Thanks Matt.
I tried to find my previous goals, but gave up as I don't really seem to worry about goals - or pre planing. Time tables/rotas etc just don't work for me. So although a little washy and non specific:
Have a productive trip to Dolomites (July) - maybe something big? Maybe a 2 day ascent?
Have a great trip to lundy (September)- maybe a smattering of e3-4s? and fill in the rest of the ticklist left over from previous years.
Summer: Climb lots & enjoy.
Ambitions E4 and above, 7c and above.
I figure that getting trad mileage and some sport will help with getting the head/gear/lead skills to where they should be for the trips.
Try to climb each week indoors productively will be good for the stamina/ maintain a level of fitness.
This week just gone:
indoors twice. Got the 7b+ which repelled advances previously. Did it again on the second session to prove it wasn't a fluke. Although the wall is limiting, I am climbing 3-4 7a's and a couple of 7b's each session along side some 6's. It is coasting really....
Coming up - outside hopefully this weekend. Spring is here, I'm truly excited by it. Gotta love the seasons!
Thanks all!
Kev.
Thanks Matt.
I tried to find my previous goals, but gave up as I don't really seem to worry about goals - or pre planing. Time tables/rotas etc just don't work for me. So although a little washy and non specific:
Have a productive trip to Dolomites (July) - maybe something big? Maybe a 2 day ascent?
Have a great trip to lundy (September)- maybe a smattering of e3-4s? and fill in the rest of the ticklist left over from previous years.
Summer: Climb lots & enjoy.
Ambitions E4 and above, 7c and above.
I figure that getting trad mileage and some sport will help with getting the head/gear/lead skills to where they should be for the trips.
Try to climb each week indoors productively will be good for the stamina/ maintain a level of fitness.
This week just gone:
indoors twice. Got the 7b+ which repelled advances previously. Did it again on the second session to prove it wasn't a fluke. Although the wall is limiting, I am climbing 3-4 7a's and a couple of 7b's each session along side some 6's. It is coasting really....
Coming up - outside hopefully this weekend. Spring is here, I'm truly excited by it. Gotta love the seasons!
Thanks all!
Kev.
1
In reply to Nick Russell:
Have fun in the Red.
Tuna Town at the Motherlode might be a better 7c to attempt? Sustained/pumpy 12a climbing to a juggy rest, then some fun yarding between edges to the chains (take the victory whip for the full experience!)
Not been to Jesus Wept wall, but understand it's bouldery moves between pockets? All depends what you think would suit you better?
Have fun in the Red.
Tuna Town at the Motherlode might be a better 7c to attempt? Sustained/pumpy 12a climbing to a juggy rest, then some fun yarding between edges to the chains (take the victory whip for the full experience!)
Not been to Jesus Wept wall, but understand it's bouldery moves between pockets? All depends what you think would suit you better?
In reply to Ally Smith:
Thanks for the advice, I'd love to go to the Motherlode. Problem is, I'm in a pretty mixed level group and nobody else would be able to (/want to try to) climb anything there. The Sanctuary (where Jesus Wept is) is really close to crags with easier climbs. Plus, when I came here 4 years ago, I belayed a friend on JW and it looked really good, and inspired me to climb harder. It was one of those times I remember thinking "if only I'd get good enough to climb that one day".
As for style, the first 4 bolts are steep, on big, juggy pockets, with a couple bouldery moves. Then there's a few bolts of much easier climbing with a couple of really good shakeouts. The top crux is a sequence up small pockets, much less steep, with a hard move right at the top. It's as good as it looks!
Thanks for the advice, I'd love to go to the Motherlode. Problem is, I'm in a pretty mixed level group and nobody else would be able to (/want to try to) climb anything there. The Sanctuary (where Jesus Wept is) is really close to crags with easier climbs. Plus, when I came here 4 years ago, I belayed a friend on JW and it looked really good, and inspired me to climb harder. It was one of those times I remember thinking "if only I'd get good enough to climb that one day".
As for style, the first 4 bolts are steep, on big, juggy pockets, with a couple bouldery moves. Then there's a few bolts of much easier climbing with a couple of really good shakeouts. The top crux is a sequence up small pockets, much less steep, with a hard move right at the top. It's as good as it looks!
In reply to Nick Russell:
As someone climbing in the mid-high 7s, I was distinctly underwhelmed by the Motherlode - you're basically limited to the Undertow Wall which was rammed with people when we were there and the routes just weren't as good as the stuff we tried/did on other crags, although I'm sure if you're strong enough to climb in the Madness Cave then it's a stellar crag (it certainly looked it).
The Sanctuary was the one crag I wish I'd visited when I was there - Jesus Wept and Triple Sec both looked absolutely brilliant. Make the effort to visit Midnight Surf and Solarium whilst you're in the Muir - both mega crags. Funk Rock City in the north was one of the highlights of our trip - brilliant routes at just about every grade from 12b - 13a and seemed relatively quiet - pick a cloudy or cool day though.
As someone climbing in the mid-high 7s, I was distinctly underwhelmed by the Motherlode - you're basically limited to the Undertow Wall which was rammed with people when we were there and the routes just weren't as good as the stuff we tried/did on other crags, although I'm sure if you're strong enough to climb in the Madness Cave then it's a stellar crag (it certainly looked it).
The Sanctuary was the one crag I wish I'd visited when I was there - Jesus Wept and Triple Sec both looked absolutely brilliant. Make the effort to visit Midnight Surf and Solarium whilst you're in the Muir - both mega crags. Funk Rock City in the north was one of the highlights of our trip - brilliant routes at just about every grade from 12b - 13a and seemed relatively quiet - pick a cloudy or cool day though.
In reply to mbh:
Thanks - hopefully it'll continue with this week too.
Sounds like you'll be well prepared which is great. Don't mean to sound condescending or trite but you really have nothing to lose or worry about. Positive mental attitude and a determination to keep going when it gets tough (and it gets tough for everyone!) and you'll do great. Looking forward to reading the race report!
Thanks - hopefully it'll continue with this week too.
Sounds like you'll be well prepared which is great. Don't mean to sound condescending or trite but you really have nothing to lose or worry about. Positive mental attitude and a determination to keep going when it gets tough (and it gets tough for everyone!) and you'll do great. Looking forward to reading the race report!
In reply to Just Tintin:
I just figured out that it was probably you I spoke to briefly at Brookes yesterday. Were you there coaching a group of lads from one of the local schools?
I was generally sitting around lots, drinking coffee and playing around on the fingerboards in between very occasionally falling off things...
If it was you, next time around, I'll try to get round to saying Hello properly.
I just figured out that it was probably you I spoke to briefly at Brookes yesterday. Were you there coaching a group of lads from one of the local schools?
I was generally sitting around lots, drinking coffee and playing around on the fingerboards in between very occasionally falling off things...
If it was you, next time around, I'll try to get round to saying Hello properly.
Post edited at 15:14
In reply to The Ex-Engineer:
It was indeed. Sorry for not making much sense. And for the low quality of my off-set lock-offs!
It was indeed. Sorry for not making much sense. And for the low quality of my off-set lock-offs!
In reply to mattrm:
Cheers Matt.
Late shout from me. Nothing to report due to lingering light. Had an hr bouldering on the Wednesday, but gave up after doing the warm ups as I was shattered.
Did some diy and then went to bed for 3 hrs. Spent most of the week knackered.
Much better now though and pleased to report there will be an end to the short staffing at work. Come May I should get a whole day off midweek every week. CLIMBING DAY! Woo hoo!
Will get back into training now. It may provide the motivation for me to use that wooden object above the lounge door that has been gathering dust for the last 12 months.
Cheers Matt.
Late shout from me. Nothing to report due to lingering light. Had an hr bouldering on the Wednesday, but gave up after doing the warm ups as I was shattered.
Did some diy and then went to bed for 3 hrs. Spent most of the week knackered.
Much better now though and pleased to report there will be an end to the short staffing at work. Come May I should get a whole day off midweek every week. CLIMBING DAY! Woo hoo!
Will get back into training now. It may provide the motivation for me to use that wooden object above the lounge door that has been gathering dust for the last 12 months.
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