UKC

Dinas Cromlech - Cemetery Gates (E1 5b)

This is on my to do list for this year, possibly with the grim jim finish if I feel up to it at the time. Either way I want to do it as one long pitch. I've seen a couple of comments from people who have done this on UKC and struggled with available rope at the top to set up the tree belay. Is this the case for both variations if you are using 60m double ropes? As much as I would like to climb the route in one pitch, getting to the top and having a rope nightmare doesn't sound pleasant...

Any thoughts welcome.

In reply to Richardlake:

60m doubles is fine provided your belayer doesn't use any to tie themselves on. Make sure they are tied in before you start as they may need to shuffle about on the ledge a bit whilst you get sorted. To be honest I don't remember using a tree belay though (it was while ago I last did it !)

In reply to Richardlake:

I can't remember having problems with 50m ropes. The Cromlech is 40 m?

In reply to Richardlake:

My 60m pair had about 3-4m left.

In reply to Richardlake:

Did it in a one on 60m with no problems - had enough to belay off the tree at the back and back to the edge

In reply to Bulls Crack:

All crags in the UK are 40m, are they not?

In reply to Richardlake:

A belay on the girdle ledge is very atmospheric. More to savour. You can still climb the second pitch.

In reply to Richardlake:

60m ropes are fine to do it in a oner. I think the Grim Jim finish is the way to go.....feels more continuous than the standard way. Fairly comfortable 5a/b and well protected so I don't think it would change the E1 grade.

In reply to Richardlake:
I've done it on 50m and 60m ropes. You can just about make the tree belay on 50m ropes, but have to belay from there. ( a few meters back from the lip of the wall). 60m ropes at least allow you to sit on the edge and saviour the view down. And yes, the jim grim finish is defo the way to go, no harder than the rest of the route. Jim grim is a good route as well, quite a bit harder with much less gear i seem to recall.

Cool thanks everyone, good info!

In reply to Richardlake:

Did it with 50m doubles last year in a oner. Just had enough left over to setup the belay...

In reply to charley:

Yeh, but you're awesome man

In reply to snoop6060:

Tie one 50 to the tree and belay lower down?