UKC

I'll be heading to Nepal in April, and am wanting to get some advice from the great UKC knowledge-base.
My plan is to trek independently (with a porter hired at Lukla) for a couple of weeks: Fly in to Lukla, walk up Gokyo valley and up Gokyo Peak (which I think doesn't need a permit?), then cross the Cho La pass. I am then joining a guided group at Lobuche East base camp to climb the mountain. I'll then be returning via Pherechie to Lukla.
The company I'm doing the climb with will provide food and accommodation at the base camp and on the climb, but I am hoping to spend the rest of it in tea-houses. Can anyone tell me where it is easy to get accommodation and where it is difficult (or where I can find this info)? I wasn't going to bring a tent and stove - is this reasonable or a bit risky?

In reply to splat2million:

Don't know the two passes you mention but I have been to Nepal twice in different areas, your guide will almost certainly have the latest news on accomodation en route and after last years earth quake you will need up to date info.

In reply to splat2million:

As pointed out by Al things might have changed but when I did this 10 years ago there were plenty of tea houses all along the route, my mate did not even have a sleeping bag, though he found the nights a bit cold. I doubt you'll have any trouble getting accommodation along the route.

Did not do the Cho La pass though. If your going to Gokyo there are a few nice viewing points a bit further up the valley if your there for a few days.

Have a good trip

In reply to splat2million:

I went around that time in 2014. In April it should be ok - at least better than in October (or whenever the main trekking season is). When I went there, the only place that was busy was Periche. It's also a bit of a dump unfortunately - the other places are really nice though. Gokyo and Cho La tended to be less frequented than the standard Base Camp route. You'll not need a tent and stove - even if the tea houses are full, they won't turn you away - you might just end up sleeping in the dining room.

In reply to splat2million:

no need for a tent or camping stuff, there are lots of places to stay on the way. May be take a small sleeping bag just so you can snuggle into it under the blankets.
Cholo pass is very good and even with snow should not be too bad, I did it without crampons, axe or guide in 2012
Gokyo has excellent tea houses with chocolate cakes though expect as warm shower when you pay for a hot one...1st world problems terrible.

In reply to splat2million:

A 20+ year old memory being consulted so don't pay too much attention.

I remember the crossing of Cho La as being a long day. Also if accommodation starts to become a problem send the porter ahead to find somewhere for the night (and be happy with his/her decision). The porter will likely be happy not to have to walk at your pace and chat to people who might be old friends.

In reply to splat2million:
For a bit of balance, we found Cho La quite tricky without crampons. I could kick steps in my B3 boots, but people with softer trekking boots struggled, and a slip in certain bits would be unadvised. If you're climbing I guess you'll be well kitted out though.

I'd also recommend not hiring a porter or guide if you can - gives you a lot more freedom and sense of achievement compared to having someone lug your bag for you. Given the quality of the tea houses, you really don't need to carry that much stuff.

In reply to splat2million: I've done this route a few times. Last times in 2014 and 2015. You won't have any problems with accommodation, plenty of tea houses on the way from Lukla to Gokyo and on the Lobuche side and back to Lukla. The earthquake hasn't affected that. But you'll likely be in a tent for 2 nights for Lobuche East so check with the climbing company on that one to be sure. Def take a sleeping bag but it doesn't need to be a heavy one. Light synthetic for tea houses in April is fine. As posters above say, you'll have blankets in all tea houses but its nice to be inside your own bag and also you'll need it when you are in tent for Lobuche East. Plenty of porter/guides available in Lukla (ask at Paradise Lodge near Lukla airport and the owner will arrange for you at short notice). If its your first time then arrange for this in advance in Kathmandu before flying to Lukla. For Lobuche you'll be carrying boots and axe and crampons so porter is a good idea for the trek in. If you are confident and strong then carry your own gear and follow the crowds. I don't bother with guides / porters on that walk in any more but I've been a number of times before so for your first time I would take one. They will help you enjoy the trip for little cost. Have a good trip. Cheers. Andrew

In reply to splat2million:
I did the exact trip in 2014. Yeah Gokyo Ri doesn't need a permit. I would also recommend going to Scoundrels viewpoint near the '5th lake' along the Ngzumpa glacier, a less frequented morning walk up the Gokyo valley. An awe inspiring place well worth spending an extra day in Gokyo for.

I've never been to Nepal, but I am planning on going next year, and after consultation with my brother (who has been quite a few times) we've decided to do something similar to you, including flying to Lukla, hiring a porter and going to Gokyo and then the Cho La pass.

My brother's thoughts were very similar to Al and Mowglee



The porters phone ahead to book rooms for their clients so the independent traveller can arrive to find there are no rooms left and they are sleeping in the dining room.

My brother has not been since the earthquake and I would be interested to hear your experiences when you return.

Have a good trip.

In reply to August West: August, I was there for one month in October so after the earthquake. a) some (hard to notice) evidence of landslides here and there but all trails had been repaired so no impact on the trekking. b) all tea houses were open c) there were far fewer trekkers than usual but it was still hard to spend more than half hour walking without seeing anyone on the trail. Everyone mentioned problems with loss of income and underemployment of porters / guides. Kathmandu especially Thamel area was the quietest I've seen it in 20 years. I would imagine that a number of people who cancelled their trips last year would be re-booking this year but I'm pretty sure it won't be back to the usual season in terms of numbers of trekkers this April. Good time to go.

In reply to andrewm1000:

Thanks for the update.

In reply to splat2million:

Thanks all for the advice. I've decided to book a porter from the company I'm climbing with so it cost a little more but at least I don't have to worry about faffing when I get to Lukla.

I have one further question - In East Africa (where I am currently) US dollars are not accepted if printed before about 2005 - is this the same in Nepal or can I take my dollars that Travelex unhelpfully have given me before I got out here?