UKC

If conditions allow I'm thinking of checking out Dow at the weekend, I note from the BMC 'White guide' all routes on a and B buttress are banned - I guess this includes arête chimney and crack even though the guide describes as classic winter route?
Also C ordinary isn't on the banned list - I presume these routes are similar in character, i havnt done either of these routes although i've climbed on Dow quite a bit. Does anyone know does either take drainage or are both normally clean summer climbs? Even though I'm sure these would be fun in winter concious that opinion is definitely turning against winter ascents of quality summer classics.

In reply to ebdon:

I'm sure somebody will be along in a moment to discuss ethics but Dow has been black for months now, the chances of anything being in other than the usual gullies would be negligible......

In reply to ebdon:

Arete, Chiney and Crack is a classic route and clean as a whistle.

In reply to Removed User:

Arete Chimney and Crack has plenty of vegetation in it and is a valid winter target in my opinion, although the white guide suggests otherwise so I shant personally be attempting it...

In reply to LakesWinter:



Negligible veg, one of the reasons it is a classic summer rock route.

Richlan is correct, Dow has been black for months, it rarely gets into any good winter nick.

In reply to Rick Graham:

Cheers all, I have climbed on Dow a couple of times in winter (once to try C-ordinary, but were beaten to it by some speedy locals) and i appreciate its coastal aspect means it stays pretty black - I'm just tempted though as I've got easy accommodation in the area!

In reply to ebdon:

The fun routes are the ones described as vegetated summer scrambles - ie the right hand buttresses. We grabbed and claimed them but good fun when frozen. More fun than rimed rock.....

In reply to Ross McGibbon:

Just driven past Dow.

Looks black even after the overnight snowfall

In reply to ebdon:

One of the best days out ever was on Dow was Great Gully in fabulous nick when the buttresses were completely stripped and the turfy routes on either side were unconsolidated horror fests.