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Metolius Cam Problem

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I have a small Metolius cam that has an extremely rusted stem. The unit isn't very old (perhaps eighteen months). I hasten to add my other gear is in good condition!

So, I emailed Metolius for their thoughts - I included a photo.

There response was a little surprising (despite the reply saying lobes it is the stem that has rusted):

"From time to time in damp climates such as the UK we will see some surface rust on the cam lobes.
It actually is not a problem and doesn’t affect the function of the cam. You can just brush the rust off with a steel brush or steel wool, and it will be fine. Please note - you need to be very careful to not hit the trigger cords."

Therefore, if you're thinking of buying Metolius cams - don't forget your wire brushes and steel wool!!
1
 SenzuBean 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:
Oh dear that sounds terrible. Having a quick look at your log it shows you have done a fair bit of sea cliff climbing - did you rinse your cams in fresh water after? (I know I sometimes don't straight away...)
Post edited at 10:15
 EddInaBox 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

Metolius cam axles (and presumably the stems) are made from carbon steel rather than stainless steel (which seems to be what most other manufacturers use) and are more prone to corrosion and seizing, particularly when the cams are exposed to salty environments.
 galpinos 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

It's a well known problem with Metolius Cams, especially when sea cliff climbing.
Removed User 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

Why haven't you linked the picture so we can see what you're talking about?
 Dell 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

Bit of WD40/3-in-1/etc on a rag, give em a wipe over after use.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=255
In reply to SenzuBean and others:

Always clean my gear after sea cliffs (log not up to date by a long way!). All my other gear is fine.

I think the comment about different metals from other manufacturers explains the problem!

No link to a photo of rusty cam because I'm not sure how to do it - technophobe!
 SenzuBean 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

> Always clean my gear after sea cliffs (log not up to date by a long way!). All my other gear is fine.

> I think the comment about different metals from other manufacturers explains the problem!

> No link to a photo of rusty cam because I'm not sure how to do it - technophobe!

Ah okay, yeah the metals definitely does explain - but I just wondered if not washing the cams made it worse. I shudder to think how quickly it would've rusted had you not washed them!
 beardy mike 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

Many cams have a high tensile steel axle because it is much more common and easily obtained. The strength difference is of the order of 2 - WC and DMM use 17-4ph stainless which is around the same strength as the equivalent high tensile but this not a common material. Rust is a surface corrosion and as they say, if you oil frequently they will remain smooth. Other companies use high tensile - BD c4's and c3's, totem basics, fixe aliens... plus any of the smaller cheaper cams you find. DMM and WC used to use it too...
In reply to beardy mike:

I know what you're saying Mike but I have BDs, WC and DMM cams - all looked after the same and all tickey boo!
A small amount of surface discoloration would be fine but this is deeply pitted (as well as surface discoloration)

Suffice to say I won't be buying any more
 beardy mike 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

If there is pitting I would be more suspect as well. Have you got some photo's? I have a contact who will be able to tell you pretty definitively if it's OK or not...
 Dazzle 17 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

Having seen these cams its pretty bad not just surface rust. I also went on the same sea cliffs at the same time, my cams (WC and BD) are fine.
Clearly some fault with Metolius here.
2
 beardy mike 17 Jun 2016
In reply to Dazzle:

Having seen plenty of problems with gear it's rarely a case of it being clear...
 JJL 18 Jun 2016
In reply to Dazzle:

> Having seen these cams its pretty bad not just surface rust. I also went on the same sea cliffs at the same time, my cams (WC and BD) are fine.

> Clearly some fault with Metolius here.

Although I am a die hard WC fan, that is unfair.

If one cam gets splashed for example, it would fare far worse than the others.
Tell you what; split your rack so that each half has some of each brand. Dip one half in saline and half in fresh water. Leave a month. Tell us your results.








1
In reply to JJL:
Odd comment, we (I included Dazzle in that) always rinse kit through - pretty stupid not to - as already stated in earlier posts.
Post edited at 23:24
In reply to beardy mike:
No point Mike - Metolius don't seem interested. You'll note that the manufacturers suggested wire brushing the cam stem but at the same time avoiding the 'string' - it's beyond a dab of WD40 as was suggested.

If the cams need to be protected from the 'normal' conditions within the country of sale there should be instructions to that effect.

(thanks for the offer - however my father is actually a metalurgist! (I jest not))
Post edited at 23:23
 FactorXXX 19 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

thanks for the offer - however my father is actually a metalurgist!

A lead star for the spelling...
 beardy mike 19 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

No, please send me the details. You will most likely have spoken to the distributor. Who I'm talking about is the ex head of quality. If there is an issue he will know it and will flag it through the channels they need to go through. Wouldn't offer this unless I didn't think it would be taken seriously as I have nothing to do with Metolius bar knowing people there...
 ashtond6 19 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

As with any cam there are strengths and weaknesses

E.g. obviously dragons are better on Sea cliffs. But mastercams will wipe the floor with them in yosemite (narrow head, softer rock, short clip in loop).

Every climber should know the application of their gear
1
 AlanLittle 19 Jun 2016
In reply to ashtond6:

>yosemite ... softer rock

?
 ashtond6 19 Jun 2016
In reply to AlanLittle:

Meant to say softer lobes (so higher holding power)
 beardy mike 19 Jun 2016
In reply to ashtond6:

Metolius use 7075-t6 for the mastercam lobes which is hard - much harder than the 6082-t6 used for most Dragons. If you'd cited the 12.75 degree camming angle then maybe...
In reply to FactorXXX:

You think it's funny to mock people with dyslexia?
2
 Gills 19 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

This is UKC, go on to any number of threads and there are users pointing out spelling and grammar mistakes, there are a lot of pedants about! I wouldn't of had clue how to spell either that so good effort!!
In reply to Gills:

I know!

I was being facetious - simply asking a question (I'm not dyslexic) - a simple typo
1
 Gills 19 Jun 2016
In reply to wrapped in bacon:

Haha my bad!!
 radddogg 19 Jun 2016
In reply to Gills:

> There are a lot of pedants about! I wouldn't of had clue how to spell either that so good effort!!

wouldn't *have* had a clue...
 Gills 19 Jun 2016
In reply to radddogg:
:-p

Edit: PS. You've missed the other mistake....
Post edited at 22:57

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