In reply to Kevster:
Where to start!....I'll focus on Sports Routes (some of which, admittedly, are ones I have put up) and DWS.
Babbacombe, Quick Dip Pinnacle - Happy When It Rains (7b+) Fab new DWS traverse, but where does the HVS of Quick Dip go (or are we really that useless that this was it all along)?
Babbacombe, Anaconda Continuation (6b). High spring tide required.
Long Quarry Point - Mustard Custard (7c+) - Was 7c when Jon first did it but bits have fallen off, and we were probably wrong in the first place.
Long Quarry Point - Once A Swinger (7b) - May be 7a+. Bizarre.
Exile Buttress - Me And My Magnum (6c+) - A near perfect pitch and...and it has a tufa!
Exile Butress - Harlem Rude Boy (6b+) - Technical climbing up a Dovedalesque corner.
Anstey's Cove - Boy George (7c+) - Awesome slopey arete. Worth the extra five minutes walk.
Anstey's Cove - Omelette Wall (6b) - One of three new routes on the wall opposite Empire. A bit fragile in the lower section but technical delicacies await.
Black Head - Dolerite Sprint (6c+) - The only wall in Torbay that is not limestone?
Black Head - Bazuka (6b) - Surely harder than the given 6a+ grade but a lovely spot for a summer's morning.
London Bridge - Frolics (7a+) - Remember this being excellent, but it was a while ago that I didi it.
London Bridge - Luv-Groove Dance Party (7a+) - The least well trodden of the big lines at London Bridge is just as good as it's more well known neighbours.
Churston - See-Saw Sundays (7c) - Spanish style climbing up a steep wall with mainly big moves between good holds.
Churston - Krushmi Chheda (7c+) - Technical and perplexing.
Churston - Mackerel Stevens (7c) - Hard crimping and sustained difficulties in its upper half. Deserves to have more ascents.
Churston - Macca's Route (7a+) - The first route put up in the current new route spree.
Churston - Metalwasp (6c+) - Wonderful airy arete.
Churston - Supercalorific (6a+) - Tufas abound on this amazing wall climb.
Ash Hole - Dream River (7c) - 12m roof climb on tufas.
Ash Hole - Wayne (7b+) - 10m roof climb on threads. Both routes climbable in the rain but headtorch may be useful.
Berry Head Quarry - Good Boy Tufa Palace (6b+) - 38m of quality ledge shuffling.
Berry Head Quarry - Ripples of Power (6c) - 37m of slightly harder quality ledge shuffling.
Berry Head Quarry - MC Navigator (7a+) - Fantastic and soft. The perfect combination!
Berry Head Quarry - Wavewalker (7a) - Great until the loose last few metres.
Berry Head Quarry - Old Man's Ladder (6a+) - Adrenalin fix guaranteed.
Oz Wall - The Missing Link (7b) - Sharp but good.
Oz Wall - Cavewoman (6c) - One of the best.
Oz Wall - Taipan Ooh Taipan (7a+) - Pushy impending wall climbing.
Rainbow Bridge - The Cauldron (7a+) - Don't do Rainbow Bridge without doing this...the best bit!
Rainbow Bridge - Fartin' Rocker (7a+) - Ken reckons better and harder than Cod Tympani. Haven't done this one.
Rainbow Bridge - Soft Cell (7c+) - Obviously awesome.
Rainbow Bridge - Bronski Beat (7b) - Easy to invert on the dismount.
Old Redoubt - Killa Gorilla (7b) - Much more obvious than it looks from across the way...and much better too!
Not a bad place to live!