UKC

I'm in the market for a pair of 50's solely for grit. I have a pair of 60's for other rock types/mountain routes, so something that'll take some battering therefore doesn't need to be skinny, i'm thinking of 8.5-9mm. atm i'm looking at Mammut Genesis and Beal Unicore II, anyone have any other suggestions?

In reply to Paul Hy:

If its just for grit might be worth considering getting a 60 and chopping it in half or alternatively going in with a mate and each getting a 60 in a diffeent colour and doing the same - 30 metres is all you need for most gritstone crags, and who want to carry two 120m of rope when you can just carry 60?

but do you really need a pair anyway? surely whoever you are climbing with will have a rope of their own so you each just carry your own half rope...

In reply to Paul Hy:
Dicks climbing in Bristol have Edelrid Apus 7.9mm half ropes in 30metre lengths sometimes for about 50 quid. Give them a call and see what they can do

0117 955 5243

In reply to Paul Hy:

For grit? How about a pair of shoe laces?


I've heard good things about the Beal if that's any help.

In reply to pebbles:
I have thought of that, but really I'm looking for rope suggestions.

In reply to zimpara:

Thanks, i have seen their "Off-Cuts" offer but will give them a call as on the website the widths vary and they didn't have any when i last checked.

In reply to Paul Hy:
I think the genesis are one of the a harder wearing ropes out there. I've owned beal verdon twos and they were ok but not as robust.

Problem with 30 metre ropes for grit of course is if you need to lower from near the top of some of the larger crags you can't. Its perhaps not a major problem until it is if you know what I mean. However I'll admit to using a single half rope tying in to both ends on many occasions.

Elderid ropes also have a good rep for being hard wearing. The single rope i owned was fine in this regard. The Kestrel 8.5mm looks worth considering.

In reply to zimpara:
7.9mm ropes are a bit on the thin side to be good for tacking a battering as the OP asked.

In reply to Paul Hy:

I'm a big fan of the Genesis. I always get 60m ropes, then as the ends get worn I cut a few metres off the ends to give me my grit and short crag rope and buy a new 60m 'best' rope.

In reply to Paul Hy:

I've been using a Beal unicore 8.7 and can recommend it highly.

In reply to Paul Hy:
On virtually any grit venue under 25m (ie nearly all of it) or where the belays are not well back, as a grit guidebook worker, I've only used one rope folded up in the last 20 years. Usually a 60m but on short crags sometimes a 40m and typically around 9mm to give it longevity. Even where belays are well back I usually take my 40m and preset a belay at the top (and climb on a folded up 60). Why carry two ropes unless you are training? The advice of cutting a rope is to be avoided (the only ropes I ever cut were damaged) as is the advice for thin half ropes (grit is unforgiving). My Genesis ropes have lasted yonks. If you are unlucky enough to need lowering off a bigger grit crag from above 15m set up a hanging belay and pull the other end up.

Edit... some routes with bold traverses are a lot safer with two belayers (Wuthering is a good example) ...so two ropes are handy there for a three rope system (one folded as per normal the other off to the side..with belayer tied down.. to protect against a swing)

In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks for advise am more than likely go for the 60m Genesis or even a 9mm single but use folded. The Mammut Serenity is triple rated but at 8.7 dont think it would take much of a battering? or the Petzl Volta at 9.2?

In reply to Paul Hy:

I tend to use one or two Mammut promo 9.5mm x30m (sometimes with some static line). Very versatile for very little cost (see Rock and Run).
Covers many bases from onsight on two to top roping and headpointing.

In reply to Paul Hy:

To be fair, a big motivation for me is not coiling and uncoiling two ropes when on big checking days. By the 30th route its a bit of a drag (if you excuse the pun).

In reply to Paul Hy:

Edelrid, Tendon and Fixe Roca have all been hard wearing in my experience. I've often used a single 9mm doubled up on grit too.