/ PRESS RELEASE: Speed Climbing Holds

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Beacon Logo, 3 kbBeacon Holds can configure a speed climbing route for your climbing facility, just in time for speed climbing to take off in the run up to the 2020 Olympic Games.

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Durbs on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

> just in time for speed climbing to take off in the run up to the 2020 Olympic Games.

LOL.

Place your bets...

Niblet on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

How do you belay speed climbing anyway? I doubt I could keep up taking in slack seeing how fast people climb at competitions.
zimpara - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Niblet:

> How do you belay speed climbing anyway? I doubt I could keep up taking in slack seeing how fast people climb at competitions.


There is a behind the scenes video on youtube of a Speed climbing comp, (Chamonix iirc) which shows all.

Oceanrower - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Niblet:

Turn your back to the wall and run like f*ck!
La benya - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to Niblet:

auto belays
winhill - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

Seems a bit of a desperate way to earn a few quid, given that climbing isn't in the Olympics as a regular sport and the 3 climb format isn't set in stone (and v unpopular) and surely the holds themselves aren't worth that much?

But yeah, paradigm shifting or was the f a typo?
becauseitsthere - on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

Aren't the Ifsc due to discuss changing the speed route?
Murd on 12 Jan 2017
In reply to becauseitsthere:

That's what I read recently, think they are meeting next month to discuss the issue
TimB - on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to Niblet:

> How do you belay speed climbing anyway? I doubt I could keep up taking in slack seeing how fast people climb at competitions.


Two people - one with a grigri on their harness who pulls rope down, the other in front of them (back to the wall) who pulls the rope through.
1poundSOCKS - on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to Murd:

> That's what I read recently, think they are meeting next month to discuss the issue

The IOC have insisted the shape of the holds is changed to allow the addition of both the Coca Cola and McDonalds logos.
tom_in_edinburgh - on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to La benya:
> auto belays

Normal autobelays don't take in anything like fast enough and if you climb fast and come off you get a big jolt because there is no stretch on the sling.

If you don't have two belayers like in a comp a combination of a GriGri and walking backwards as necessary can just about keep up with a reasonably fast speed climber.
Post edited at 09:51
Niblet on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to TimB:

Ahh, that makes sense.
ludlowjim - on 13 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

I have recently started climbing at the Beacon where they have a speed route, it seems very popular- as it has folk on it all the time, and is safeguarded by an autobelay which seems to cope from my layman perspective.

I think that this is a positive development, although I recognise that others may have other viewpoints.

It would be good to see this at the Olympics,

Jim
ClimbUK - on 14 Jan 2017 - www.climbukltd.com
In reply to UKC Gear:

We use a Perfect Descent auto belay unit at Beacon Climbing Centre this has the fastest retraction speed of any auto belay on the market and is the official unit used for IFSC World Speed competitions.
johncook - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to ClimbUK:

Having watched the IFSC speed comps they have two belayers per climber. One with a gri gri on his harness, who pulls the rope down and another who pulls the rope quickly through the gri gri. Never seen an auto-belay on any of the IFSC comps.
Auto belay may work for your average climber, but even as a bumbly I can out climb an auto belay on F5 routes (I am a 67 year old 6b leader for reference!)
Could you post a link to an IFSC official comp which uses autos please.
chrishedgehog - on 14 Jan 2017
In reply to UKC Gear:

"Speed Climbing Isn't" Shocker.

Where on earth did this speed climbing idea come from for the Olympics? I've never met anyone who does it, or is interested in it, or knows what it is, or cares, etc However, if that's the tone the Olympics are aiming for, maybe we could have speed snooker? Crazy golf? Walking sideways on a horse? (Oh yeah, we already have that.) If "Sport Climbing Is Neither", then "Speed Climbing Isn't". It doesn't exist, it never will, no evidence to the contrary will ever convince me it does, therefore it doesn't. So it isn't.

I don't mind that A R Dolphin or whoever it was could do Bird's Nest Wotsit at Almscliff in 15seconds or whatever it was. In Woolies pumps. Carrying a pipe in one hand and rolling a fag with the other. That's cool. Spot the difference. Duh.
ClimbUK - on 31 Jan 2017 - www.climbukltd.com
In reply to johncook:
You can find further information on the IFSC website:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/sport-department/speed-project

Automatic Speed Belaying system
The Speed World Record can be done only when a Certified Auto-Belay system is used. The Certified Provider is Perfect Descent and the model is the Perfect Descent 220.
Post edited at 10:53
Graeme Alderson on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Murd:

No, the route will not change before the end of 2020.
Graeme Alderson on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to TimB:

Nope, auto belays are compulsory for World Cups etc from now onwards
Graeme Alderson on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to ClimbUK:

BTW Official holds are red and have a QR code on them so people like me can check they are official
Murd on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/latest-news/item/855-sport-department-discusses-olympics
only what I read, but i'm sure you know better than me.
Post edited at 16:20
Graeme Alderson on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to Murd:

Yes there was discussion about the speed route but following tests the previous weekend at Voiron in France with various national teams it was decided not to change the route until at least the end of 2020.
Aly - on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to chrishedgehog:

Best post I've read on here for a while, thanks.
john arran - on 31 Jan 2017
In reply to chrishedgehog:

Ever considered that your parochial UK perspective may not be entirely representative of climbing in other countries, some of which have prioritised speed climbing highly for several decades?

Speed climbing may not be as popular worldwide as leading or bouldering but that doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't merit Olympic inclusion. Neither is it my cup of tea either, but it's not about me.

From a UK perspective I doubt there's anyone that wouldn't prefer separate rather than combined disciplines, but as a stepping stone in that direction I don't see it as a disaster.

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