UKC

Just been looking at various snippets about Mont Blanc.
I understand that the "easy" route is via the Tetes Rousse and Gouter Refuge. Apart from the crossing of the Grand Couloir and obviously the possibility of altitude problems are there any other "problems" After the Grand Couloir is the ascent to the Gouter refuge anything more than a scramble?
Just interested.

In reply to mypyrex:
I didn't find the scramble to the Gouter refuge any more difficult than a grade 1/2. The most difficult bit was keeping my temper under control as the pushy French guides insist I move faster despite being stuck in a queue...

In reply to mrphilipoldham:


Just watched a video of the scramble. Seem to be some fixed ropes/cables.

In reply to mypyrex:

Yes there's fixed cables in place on the trickier/exposed sections.

In reply to mypyrex:
ITs' quite exposed to stonefall even after crossing the couloir. Higher, possible crevasses and narrow snow ridge.

In reply to mypyrex:
I won't mince words. The scramble is pretty f*cking serious in the dark. Take 1000 lumens for alone and don't climb behind anyone. That means leaving tete rousse at midnight latest.

The rest of the route is good.

Be prepared to pant a lot

In reply to mypyrex:

There is still some stonefall risk, and some sketchy sections where a stumble would result in a very long fall. I remember there being some fixed cables, but if you're surefooted and confident then you won't need them. If you are unsure of the route (it can be tricky to follow in the dark), then follow another group. There will be plenty of other climbers!

In reply to MG:

Yup, mostly caused by incompetents above sweeping loose rock off by not taking care of their ropes.

Yes, but not *before* the Gouter, iirc - which is what the OP was meaning, I think.

In reply to Strife:

Yes, there will be other climbers if you leave late, you sure as f*ck do NOT want to be behind them!

In reply to All:
Thanks for responses. Just to clarify, my question was put out of general interest. I've no plans to do it Of course I do claim to have been higher than Mont Blanc

In reply to mypyrex:

The scramble in the dark from the Tete Rousse can get a bit scary if you go off route (yes, believe it or not this is possible to do in the cloud and snow).

In reply to mypyrex:

As others have said, when snow and ice free an easy scramble but long and sustained with quite a bit of loose stuff around. There are quite a lot of fixed cables but not necessary in my opinion. Obviously more challenging in the dark if you choose to do it then and can be quite tricky with snow, ice or black ice.
For most people the trickiest part is coming down. Long, steep and sustained just when you are tired and possibly less attentive to loose rocks and people around you. I do not recommend using ropes on ascent or descent unless it is very snowy / icy or you are roping a novice up / down. Ropes dislodge rocks and slow you down quite a lot unless you are very slick with them. Guides will often short rope clients but most of them are very skilled at keeping the rope off the ground.

In reply to mypyrex:

Why is this route so popular?
From what I've read and the videos I've seen, it seems to be a right nightmare.
Stonefall, way too many people, hut crammed to its eyeballs ...

Grand Mulets, in my worthless opinion, space in the hut, no rockfall, is infinitely better, but you do have an extra 800m on summit day

In reply to Lusk:

Might have some difficulty getting through The Junction in lean years or later in the season

In reply to mypyrex:

a somewhat overlooked danger is that at peak times there could be 20+ people going both directions on the tight section of the bosses ridge.

In reply to tingle:


Couldn't agree more. After summiting, we headed down the ridge closely following another party. At the narrow bit we meet another party coming up who were perhaps surprisingly unroped. As they started to pass the party descending ahead of us one of them slipped. He accelerated off down the slope so fast there was no chance of self arresting. There was nothing we could do but watch him disappear down with his screams receding into the distance. After several seconds he disappeared over the top of a serac band and the screams abruptly stopped. Somebody went down to the Vallot to alert the rescue and we later saw the helicopter looking around. We checked in at the Gendarmerie back at Chamonix to report what we'd seen and were not surprised to hear he hadn't survived.

Lee

In reply to thlcr1:

I can't imagine how awful that must have been to witness

In reply to mypyrex:


Not something I'm ever likley to forget

Lee