UKC

Hi all, I'm looking for a bit of local knowledge regarding climbing conditions. Can anyone advise how long the rock takes to dry after a rainy spell, shower etc? Are there particular areas that dry quicker? I was hoping to drive out there this weekend but the forecast suggests rain, rain and more rain. Coming from Kent, it's a good drive if I'm only going to spend my time thinking I should have gone to the wall. Cheers

In reply to Fishmate:
It doesn't look good and the weather on Dartmoor is nearly always that much more inclement than forecast, I have climbed when it's supposed to be sunny and mild and it's been horizontal rain. Bonehill is marginally less exposed than other Tors and drys well but I wouldn't hold much hope for the weekend unless the forecast changes.

In reply to Fishmate:

Its a funny place the moor, rarely you get really good conditions for bouldering at your limit , however if you want to run around and tick a load of routes and see a few tors then as long as it has been dry for a day then you should be able to find many boulders to go at as there are hundreds of lines to pick from.
I was up there the other day bouldering between the showers and due to the wind it was all drying really quick, the breeze is quite crucial although it pays to take many extra layers
There is also bovey woods which is less exposed but takes longer to dry in general
Forecast is not looking so good for the weekend down here though
This site is quite good to judge the weather , weekly forecast updated on thursday or friday
http://www.lyneside.demon.co.uk/Haytor/automatic/Current_Vantage_Pro.htm

In reply to Fishmate:
http://www.dartcom.co.uk/webcam

In reply to dale1968 and misterb:

Hi Dale/misterb, thanks for the advice. Much appreciated. I'm looking to climb up to 7A and repeatedly fail on harder problems but keen to try as much as I can. Any must do lines you could recommend? I'm aware of the Javu site and the fact my skin may get trashed by the granite. Any tips there apart from MTFU?

In reply to misterb and dale1968: Just had a look at the links you both provided. Both excellent resources. Thanks again

In reply to Fishmate:

Its a looong drive from Kent, no? Go somewhere else?

In reply to La benya:


I appreciate your thinking, however in the south east we have southern sandstone. Invariably one days rain = several days of rock out of condition. Plus climbing on one rock type does not a rounded climber make. My other options are Portland or the Peak in terms of distance, all of which are at least 3 hours assuming 3 pts for speeding are avoided.

Unfortunately, for us south easterners you're either prepared to make the effort or bumble along. Also given the work put in by the Dartmoor locals and others it deserves attention from what I'm learning, so a long weekend seems worth the punt. And looking at your profile, you know, if you got to crush, you got to crush

In reply to Fishmate:

Go to the Peak...

Dartmoor granite promises so much but delivers so little!

In reply to JIMBO:

Go to Dartmoor. You'll have beautiful moorland to yourself rather than feeling like you're down the climbing wall.

In reply to Fishmate:

Font, no?!

I love Dartmoor but, if I'm honest, more for the moors themselves, stretching into the distance, than the bouldering. Some is great, but it's true that it's rarely quite as good as it looks like it will be.

It's well worth the trip even if you just end up exploring the moor because the rock is all wet.

In reply to JIMBO:

Cheers Jimbo, I'll be visiting both for certain. Hopefully I'll disagree

In reply to GDes:

That is what I want to hear. Cheers Ged

In reply to Fishmate:

I think that you will find the wind more of a problem with this week's forecast. But granite does dry very quickly. OK if you find a sheltered crag (not that many). Torbay is often very sheltered and has much better weather (sunny today) Friday looks like the best day of the weekend.
Current Dartmoor weather here http://www.lyneside.demon.co.uk/Haytor/automatic/Current_Vantage_Pro.htm
And forecast for the coming week here (updates on Fridays) http://www.lyneside.demon.co.uk/weeklydiscussions.htm

In reply to sg:

Thanks sg. Some interesting and definitely varied opinions. I'm suspecting dartmoor is rather like Marmite

Font for certain, but not possible on a weekly/monthly basis

Albarracin is on the radar also.

Thanks all. As much as I love Southern Sandstone, sit starts off first pad crimps at the bottom of routes with few top outs does become limiting but gives a crazy workout

In reply to Sean Kelly:

Thanks Sean, with Storm Doris soon to be arriving, I could get some some practice with windy conditions tomorrow