UKC

I'm looking to buy a rope for use on Mont Blanc, preferably an all-rounder so I can use it for trad stuff as well so I'm not fussed about getting the lightest possible rope, and will get a single rather than a twin (as I've read that would also be fine for glacier travel). I'm looking at the Beal Karma 9.8mm or Mammut Galaxy 10mm. Neither are dry-treated. Will I regret not getting a dry-coated rope when using it in the snow?

In reply to jk90128:

Yes

Al

In reply to jk90128:

Yes. Frozen ropes aren't a lot of fun.

I got an Edelweiss Performance 9.2mm for alpine stuff and sport holidays, and it's been brilliant. It's now my go-to rope, often paired with a half for trad in the UK, or doubled over for shorter grit routes. It hasn't worn noticeably faster than a thicker single and wasn't all that expensive. The downside of using it for everything of course is that the dry treatment wears off quite quickly when you're abusing it on grit or granite trad in the UK.

In reply to jk90128:

"Will I regret not getting a dry-coated rope when using it in the snow?"

Yes- certainly. Yet dry treated for sure.

In reply to jk90128: Just had a look at the brilliant little "Mont Blanc 4808m - 5 Routes to the Summit" guidebook and Francois Damilano recommends a 50m (minimum) single rope

I'm afraid I can't remember what length or thickness I used on the 3 Monts route, and I wouldn't want to disagree with such an authority.

That said, given the altitude and length of the routes, I'd always prefer the lightest one I could get away with, so in my case, ideally thinner than 9.8 or 10mm. However the ease of taking coils obviously varies; skinny sport climbers (like me) can find it slightly more awkward than barrel chested giants for the same length of rope.