UKC

Hi everyone,

Anyone been to Sierra de Toix?

Is it decent for those climbing around F4/5/6? Got a few people climbing in those grade ranges so looking to keep everyone happy.

Any recommendations on accomodation and possibly other activities to do whilst we're there?

Cheers

Nick

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Looks like there's plenty at those grades: Sierra de Toix#maps

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Orange house for accommodation.

There is plenty to do there at F5-6, as well as Sella and other nearby crags.

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Lots to do at Sierra do Toix. Lots of single and multi pitch, sea cliffs, even a ridge scramble. Villas and apartments by the thousand in Maryvilla which surrounds the Toix ridge, so you cant get any closer (we walked to and from some of the crags). Diving from a school in the town and a walk or climb up the Penon - what more do you want?

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Hi Nick,

I know Toix pretty well. Yes it's got plenty of 4/5/6 grade routes, single and multi-pitch spread over a few sectors. As has been mentioned, there's even a ridge to do, that's well worth it, although not bolted along the ridge itself, a few slings protects the narrow section.
Peñon is worth the walk, views are stunning. Just don't expect a peaceful picnic on the summit as Seagulls and Cats will be joining you!
Bernia ridge is a good day out too. For more info about this and other mountain related activities have a look at: http://www.mountain-journeys.co.uk/guides-and-information.html

For a Toix centric stay, Calpe will make the best base.

Hope that's helpful.

Mark

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

It's a nice set of crags, easy access, generally pleasant situation, good views, with plenty to go at in the lower grades. Can be hard to find shelter from either sun or wind! Some of the most popular routes are a bit polished, but nothing too awful, and the rock is more skin-friendly than some other crags in the area. If you are taking a group of beginners, a few things to watch out for are that some of the easier routes are sparsely bolted in places, some pitches are more than 30m long, and there is a wide variety in the styles of anchors.

In reply to Nick_Merriman:
It's a great place to climb at that grade , have a look for accomodation at calpe. Just 10 mins down the road 👍

In reply to Mark Eddy:


take them some food, the cats that is not the gulls.

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

As others have said Toix is a great venue with lots to go at. Just returned from a 9 day trip this week. Three days at Toix, three at Sella and also went to Alcalali and Serra d'Olta. We had one wash out day on Monday. The view from Olta over Calp is brilliant.

Other venues we have been to for those grades are Echo 1.5 and Guadalest both on a previous trip. Plenty of others to choose from. I guess you have the Rockfax guide. We planned to go to Murla and Marin but ran out of time.

We stayed at Comapss West in Finestrat. If you want night life Calp would be better or even dare I say Benidorm.

Other activities could be a visit to Guadalest Castle and there is plenty of walking in the mountains. There is a Cicerone guide for this. Must be lots of other stuff but we only went for the climbing so don't know.

Hope this helps.

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Another vote for the Bernia Ridge. Fabulous day out.

It's very good for grades you mentioned. In November I took a friend where who leads F5 and she was very happy with routes!

If you are planning to climb only on Sierra de Toix it's worth booking local villa. You will not need a rental car and it will be cheaper than Orange House in total. Orange House on other hand is good place to meet other English speaking climbers.

If you want a day adventure worth checking out rote Diedro UBSA (5c) on Penon de Ifach. It's trad with bolted belays. Or if you want fully bolted route Costa Blanca (6c+) is very good as well. Where's a local bus from Maryvilla. Taxi about 5 euros. Or you can just walk - 7km.

In reply to Nick_Merriman:

Nick, The Orange House website is going through a major rebuild and we do have loads of miniguides you can download free. Contact me through facebook at the moment and I will send you a link to the correct page.

VF's
Scrambles
Gorge Walks
Bridge Swings
High Lines

Sam Orange House
https://web.facebook.com/theorangehousespain/
or email me at info@theorangehouse.co.uk

In reply to Sam Mayfield:

Mini guides now back online but on www.costablancaclimbing.co.uk

Need many more hours in the day to get all the data about areas, routes etc etc back up and accessible.

Sam Orange