UKC

220m, 10 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. A classic expedition which takes the groove to a belay behind the pinnacle and then continues to reach the large cave high up. From here the route escapes leftwards by a spectacular abseil. The route is slightly spoilt by the looseness of the first few pitches. Depending on confidence/ability levels, take a small rack although all the hard sections are geared. Start left of the base of the groove by a large cactus bush.
1) -, 15m. Scramble (loose) to belay left of the base of the groove.
2) 4+, 30m. Climb awkwardly right to the groove, then up to a stance in a chimney.
3) 5, 20m. Continue bridging up the groove to a stance just before a harder section.
4) 5+, 35m. Another pitch up the corner.
5) 4, 30m. Move right onto a slab, then back left and climb up to a three-bolt belay on a jammed block behind the pinnacle.
6) 5+, 25m. Make a long move from the block to access the wall. Climb up into the base of the cave and a belay on the left. The groove to the right gives another option. Do not be tempted to climb up towards the tat visible high in the cave.
7) 8m down. Look round the left Arete to locate some bolts and use these to abseil to a ledge below, swinging slightly left, then move further left to a belay (on Les miserables).
8) 4, 30m. Traverse into the corner and move up to belay.
9) 4+, 35m. Climb the corner to gain the ridge. Easy rock leads from here to the summit. © Rockfax

FA. Luis Riguez, Jose Guerrero, Pedro Oliva 1960s 1965.

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , The Big Easys , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , Ryan's Multipitch Climbs (Europe) , Costa blanca 2022 , 100 Spanish multi-pitch classics , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Nev22 14 Nov Show βeta
βeta: Great climb, very 3D in places and the fact it’s super polished, makes it a tad harder than the guide says on some pitches. The crux pitch P-6, if you go via the small cave route, fully commit to the mantle & big reach for the massive jug !! Awesome climb, stunning views and really exposed on some points.
Show beta
βeta: Great climb, very 3D in places and the fact it’s super polished, makes it a tad harder than the guide says on some pitches. The crux pitch P-6, if you go via the small cave route, fully commit to the mantle & big reach for the massive jug !! Awesome climb, stunning views and really exposed on some points.
ceejaysix 19 Oct Show βeta
βeta: To add to feedback below. P6 for the 5c version (only 5c if you can jam, and even then it's a bit stiff): off the belay block grab (dyno to if you're under 5'8"!) the bomber jug, then traverse directly right on big holds you wish were just a bit less rounded to the crack (you can see the first bolt on this crack from the belay, but a nasty-looking swing if you fall before you get there). Follow the crack up with the small caves to your left; as you approach the massive cave bear left (run-out) through easier ground, (another line continues straight up, don't be tempted by the bolt on the right side of a mini-arete/pinnacle that's still below main cave floor level as it leads to an awkward mantle and traverse back to where you want to be - or a 6c+ and 7a finish up Puto Paseo Ecologico!). The current Rockfax topo line hints at this but is drawn somewhere between the direct 6a/+ version and the (supposed) 5c variant - it should meet P5 of PPE. At cave floor height look well left, the belay is to the far left hand side, just around the corner onto the main face are the ab rings for P7. Also note the stance for P9 is shown in the wrong place (topo has it at the end of the traverse left, actually P8 carries on up corner and slab with the belay shortly before you arrive at the next vertical corner). P9 has an 'extra' stance halfway up (after the climbing, all a scramble from there) but you can go straight to the top on a 60m no problem (though you won't hear each other shouting from the top).
Show beta
βeta: To add to feedback below. P6 for the 5c version (only 5c if you can jam, and even then it's a bit stiff): off the belay block grab (dyno to if you're under 5'8"!) the bomber jug, then traverse directly right on big holds you wish were just a bit less rounded to the crack (you can see the first bolt on this crack from the belay, but a nasty-looking swing if you fall before you get there). Follow the crack up with the small caves to your left; as you approach the massive cave bear left (run-out) through easier ground, (another line continues straight up, don't be tempted by the bolt on the right side of a mini-arete/pinnacle that's still below main cave floor level as it leads to an awkward mantle and traverse back to where you want to be - or a 6c+ and 7a finish up Puto Paseo Ecologico!). The current Rockfax topo line hints at this but is drawn somewhere between the direct 6a/+ version and the (supposed) 5c variant - it should meet P5 of PPE. At cave floor height look well left, the belay is to the far left hand side, just around the corner onto the main face are the ab rings for P7. Also note the stance for P9 is shown in the wrong place (topo has it at the end of the traverse left, actually P8 carries on up corner and slab with the belay shortly before you arrive at the next vertical corner). P9 has an 'extra' stance halfway up (after the climbing, all a scramble from there) but you can go straight to the top on a 60m no problem (though you won't hear each other shouting from the top).
Kiddie68 29 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route! Often steep on excellent holds. Very 3D, old school climbing (bridging!). Fully equipped where needed, but very spaced bolts so one small rack of nuts and some longer slings are advised, but no more that that. All belays have double ring bolts, suitable for retreat on a single 70m if required. Guidebook a little lacking; approach is from extreme end of pedestrian road (plenty of free parking at start of this road), past helipad. Path up is tucked right under the rock face. Pitch 2 is bold steep climbing requiring a couple of back-up nuts and a whole grade harder than guidebook suggests. Pitch 5, up the chimney climbs through behind the jammed block (no 3-bolt belay present) then right up on top of it for the belay. Second crux pitch (pitch 6) goes up to tat in small cave then swings right (crucial 'thank god' pocket) and up into main belay cave...slightly confusing if you read the Rockfax description about NOT climbing to tat! (Different tat, high above obvious belay). (EDIT..apparently this is the 6a direct variation, about right as felt scary! Didn't see where you would traverse into corner though). NB. No rings on this belay as the abseil pitch rings are just within reach around the edge. Total 6hrs.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route! Often steep on excellent holds. Very 3D, old school climbing (bridging!). Fully equipped where needed, but very spaced bolts so one small rack of nuts and some longer slings are advised, but no more that that. All belays have double ring bolts, suitable for retreat on a single 70m if required. Guidebook a little lacking; approach is from extreme end of pedestrian road (plenty of free parking at start of this road), past helipad. Path up is tucked right under the rock face. Pitch 2 is bold steep climbing requiring a couple of back-up nuts and a whole grade harder than guidebook suggests. Pitch 5, up the chimney climbs through behind the jammed block (no 3-bolt belay present) then right up on top of it for the belay. Second crux pitch (pitch 6) goes up to tat in small cave then swings right (crucial 'thank god' pocket) and up into main belay cave...slightly confusing if you read the Rockfax description about NOT climbing to tat! (Different tat, high above obvious belay). (EDIT..apparently this is the 6a direct variation, about right as felt scary! Didn't see where you would traverse into corner though). NB. No rings on this belay as the abseil pitch rings are just within reach around the edge. Total 6hrs.
Tall Oak 18 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Its polished but actually very doable and also very fun. P5 and P6 were outstanding. We bailed from the final couple of pitches of Dierdro and headed up Costa Miserables which was mega link up. Next time is Costa Blanca to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Its polished but actually very doable and also very fun. P5 and P6 were outstanding. We bailed from the final couple of pitches of Dierdro and headed up Costa Miserables which was mega link up. Next time is Costa Blanca to finish.
freeheel47 9 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: a) really hot b) when we did it the bolts got much more spaced out at the hardest bit c) if you try and go right when the bolts get spaced out at the hardest bit then you will find that those really prickly looking plants are indeed really prickly. d) good- you will need beer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: a) really hot b) when we did it the bolts got much more spaced out at the hardest bit c) if you try and go right when the bolts get spaced out at the hardest bit then you will find that those really prickly looking plants are indeed really prickly. d) good- you will need beer.
Scottthedog 13 Dec, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Deffo consider more HVS, although bolts where really needed. Used set of slings, nuts 5 6-11, cams 01,1,2.
Show beta
βeta: Deffo consider more HVS, although bolts where really needed. Used set of slings, nuts 5 6-11, cams 01,1,2.
Jeremy Wilton 30 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The pitch up to the ab point (6), don't go into the tractor tyre sized hole/cave with tat...it's 5 metre further up and right into the house sized cave!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The pitch up to the ab point (6), don't go into the tractor tyre sized hole/cave with tat...it's 5 metre further up and right into the house sized cave!
JayW 3 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose at the start as the guidebook says (we soloed the first pitch in our approach shoes). Take enough water and snacks to see you through. Long sleeved UV layer was a saviour as we pretty much got baked the whole way up. The abseil point next to the cave isn't that obvious - you have to peer round the arete to the left of the cave. Airy but fun traverse. Take a set of nuts and a couple of medium sized Cams if you are not confident in running it out as there can be some distance between the bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose at the start as the guidebook says (we soloed the first pitch in our approach shoes). Take enough water and snacks to see you through. Long sleeved UV layer was a saviour as we pretty much got baked the whole way up. The abseil point next to the cave isn't that obvious - you have to peer round the arete to the left of the cave. Airy but fun traverse. Take a set of nuts and a couple of medium sized Cams if you are not confident in running it out as there can be some distance between the bolts.
sheffieldchris 15 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: sorry to go against the flow here but has everyone gone mad.couple of points, do you like thrutching up loose corners using more brawn than style?. do you like scratching your head trying to work out what the hell the guide book means? do you like climbing on smooth soapstone type rock? are you climbing above 5+ (would be a realy good idea)I so have a great day, this route is spectacular from the ground and does put you in some good locations but in my opinion this doesn't make up for the style of climbing needed to get up it. If you just want to get to the top go for via valencianos
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: sorry to go against the flow here but has everyone gone mad.couple of points, do you like thrutching up loose corners using more brawn than style?. do you like scratching your head trying to work out what the hell the guide book means? do you like climbing on smooth soapstone type rock? are you climbing above 5+ (would be a realy good idea)I so have a great day, this route is spectacular from the ground and does put you in some good locations but in my opinion this doesn't make up for the style of climbing needed to get up it. If you just want to get to the top go for via valencianos
will_benfold 12 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of minor corrections to the topos: after pitch six, belay is in the gully leading to the huge cave, not next to the small hole as shown in old topo; topo in new book shows wrong number of stances for first six pitches. Both topos show misleading info for the penultimate pitch (possibly due to perspective of photo): pitch nine is about 8m traversing, then about 12m upwards, belay is behind a large bush/tree. Near the start of the walk-in path, there's a poster showing the most popular routes, including the positions of the belays; this is by far the most accurate topo I've seen for this route. Top quality route though, and at a grade most will be comfortable with.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couple of minor corrections to the topos: after pitch six, belay is in the gully leading to the huge cave, not next to the small hole as shown in old topo; topo in new book shows wrong number of stances for first six pitches. Both topos show misleading info for the penultimate pitch (possibly due to perspective of photo): pitch nine is about 8m traversing, then about 12m upwards, belay is behind a large bush/tree. Near the start of the walk-in path, there's a poster showing the most popular routes, including the positions of the belays; this is by far the most accurate topo I've seen for this route. Top quality route though, and at a grade most will be comfortable with.
Ramon Marin 8 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Man, the topo on the Rockfax book was very misleading. In this particular route I would have preferred a drawing than a picture. The route is great though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Man, the topo on the Rockfax book was very misleading. In this particular route I would have preferred a drawing than a picture. The route is great though.
brianrunner 16 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought pitch 6 was the crux. A well protected move above the pinnacle but then some neckier climbing moving right into the corner. The last balancy move into the chimney felt quite hard and not well protected. Despite first appearances the last 2 pitches are excellent, maintain the standard and are full of surprises! Take a full rack and enjoy a great classic.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Thought pitch 6 was the crux. A well protected move above the pinnacle but then some neckier climbing moving right into the corner. The last balancy move into the chimney felt quite hard and not well protected. Despite first appearances the last 2 pitches are excellent, maintain the standard and are full of surprises! Take a full rack and enjoy a great classic.
Oli 12 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Where does the 6a variation on pitch 6 go? straight up some bulges and right next to the small cave?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where does the 6a variation on pitch 6 go? straight up some bulges and right next to the small cave?
Kyuzo 9 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, amazing views and great climbing. Watch out on pitch 3 or 4 for the line of shiny new bolts (as Rob mentioned above), I foolishly followed them rather than sticking towards the right hand face (where there isn't really much fixed gear at all). This bolt line starts off deceptively easy, but after a few bolts it gets very hard.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route, amazing views and great climbing. Watch out on pitch 3 or 4 for the line of shiny new bolts (as Rob mentioned above), I foolishly followed them rather than sticking towards the right hand face (where there isn't really much fixed gear at all). This bolt line starts off deceptively easy, but after a few bolts it gets very hard.
Gripped 5 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A fantastic route through some very impressive terrain. Wow, the abseil and pendulum!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A fantastic route through some very impressive terrain. Wow, the abseil and pendulum!
mdwoolley 29 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed it on Sunday 24th October! *all* of the pitches are really enjoyable though for some reason pitches 2 and 3 really stick in my mind for pure climbing pleasure. The abseil is a tad necky and the ledge you ab down to is a mere pale immitation of a ledge! I thought the traverse felt exposed and under-graded technically, but maybe that's just me. The final pitch has an overhang with a diagonally sloping tunnel up through it. All well and good unless you're wearing a rucksack like me, which means you cannot fit and have to climb over the thing (upping the grade for that pitch imho). Either way, a truly awesome expedition. It took us between 8 and 9 hours wiht a decent break behind the pinnacle and in the cave.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed it on Sunday 24th October! *all* of the pitches are really enjoyable though for some reason pitches 2 and 3 really stick in my mind for pure climbing pleasure. The abseil is a tad necky and the ledge you ab down to is a mere pale immitation of a ledge! I thought the traverse felt exposed and under-graded technically, but maybe that's just me. The final pitch has an overhang with a diagonally sloping tunnel up through it. All well and good unless you're wearing a rucksack like me, which means you cannot fit and have to climb over the thing (upping the grade for that pitch imho). Either way, a truly awesome expedition. It took us between 8 and 9 hours wiht a decent break behind the pinnacle and in the cave.
Dan Bailey - UKHillwalking.com 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with a strong natural line (give or take the slightly weird abseiling palaver), and an adventurous feel. Much of the in-situ gear is ageing. No looser than most mountain routes. The rock type felt a little bit Gogarth-y to me...anyone know what I'm on about?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route with a strong natural line (give or take the slightly weird abseiling palaver), and an adventurous feel. Much of the in-situ gear is ageing. No looser than most mountain routes. The rock type felt a little bit Gogarth-y to me...anyone know what I'm on about?
mdwoolley 1 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd be interested to know how long this route took people. I'm planning to climb it in October this year. I'm hoping that 11 hours of daylight will be enough! :) Cheers
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'd be interested to know how long this route took people. I'm planning to climb it in October this year. I'm hoping that 11 hours of daylight will be enough! :) Cheers
Colonel Cathcart 29 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route. We went up the fist crack to the right of the pinnacle rather than the rounded wall, seemed resonable enough
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route. We went up the fist crack to the right of the pinnacle rather than the rounded wall, seemed resonable enough

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Route of Interest
Catharthis Sumital

Grade: 5c ***
(Ambolo)

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