UKC

Does anyone who has climbed at The Spitzkoppe relatively recently (since the guidebook was published in 2010) or is otherwise in the know have any more up to date in formation on access. My researches suggest anything from complete freedom. to permits, to having to hire a local guide even for walking. Any useful information gratefully received. Just got the guidebook in the post today and it looks awesome!

In reply to Robert Durran:

Can't offer any recent beta, but having climbed there 10 years ago I can say it's a fantastic area. So much to see and do around the climbing as well. Hope you have a fab time.

In reply to Robert Durran:

Visited in May 2013. No permits were required. The area (dispersed camping) was run by a SA couple (some sort of co-op with the nearby village). There was a daily per person fee to camp but it was impeccably maintained. We could also buy home cooked dinners from them. Didn't enjoy the climbing very much but most of the good looking stuff was too hard for us & the easier stuff was scary, run-outs & exfoliating rock. We ended up not doing very much so take this w. a grain of salt (did not try the normal route...should have).

In reply to rpc:


Thanks. We've already booked the camping. It will just be a few days during a tour of Namibia after climbing in S. Africa. Definitely plan to climb the normal route and would be interested if anyone could put a UK grade on it; I'm hoping to get a friend up it who's hardly climbed in ages. Judging by the conversion table 4c/5a so hopefully about HVS if not scarily unprotected.

In reply to Robert Durran:

We were there in July 2014 and had no problem with access to the normal route. IIRC part of the reserve is gated off and you need a local guide to get access, but this only applies to the back side of the peaks (away from the camping), and there aren't too many routes there. I think we had a decent web reference for this, I'll try and find it.

Regarding the normal route - UK HVS probably covers it. It's not too hard but it's definitely adventurous! Routefinding wasn't easy. I believe it can be made easier by traversing in above the first or second pitch, but I think this had some of the better climbing on it. Also, don't underestimate the approach - there's a lot of scrambling up/down/through boulders, and it was strenuous and time-consuming.

We did a few other things while we were there, and the other highlight was Watersports, a 3 pitch layback crack underneath an arch - photos here: http://chossclimbers.com/testing/namibia/spitzkoppe/ Probably E3. The sport climbing around the campsites is fun, but a lot of the other routes are really runout.

Oh, and it's a fantastic country - enjoy!

In reply to Robert Durran:

This map looks right from what I remember: http://wantseeproject.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Matterhorn-of-Namibia-... You need a guide to go into the "nature reserve" area, but the approach to the normal route starts before you get to that gate, I think. Definitely no climbing permits required.

In reply to cat22:
Thanks. Very useful. The guidebook seems to say that the normal route starts inside the fence but that there is an alternative approach from the north though. Great blog (I now remember finding your Oman stuff useful too!). Watersports looks amazing.

Edit: Just read your blog on Brandberg - didn't even know there was climbing there!