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Climbing walls are too nice these days

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 bouldery bits 21 Mar 2017

Many moons ago, when i were a youth starting out in Climbing the local wall stank of chalk, sweat and failure. There was the constant presence of a silent crusty in a vest who would passive aggressively cruise your routes and, if you were lucky, there would be some Freddos and a plastic cup of tea.

Now they have WiFi. And cappuccinos. Kids clubs and yummy mummies. Dyson airblades. Organic home made energy balls. Graded circuits. Music. They're even clean.

In short Climbing walls have become pleasant places to be and I don't like it. Anyone else yearning for the discomforts of yesteryear?
Post edited at 17:39
8
 Tyler 21 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

You're 27 FFS

 TheFasting 21 Mar 2017
In reply to Tyler:

/thread
OP bouldery bits 21 Mar 2017
In reply to Tyler:

Fine.

I'm going down the wall to train on the LED moon board and have a latte.

Humph.
 Greasy Prusiks 21 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Don't forget your special pre and post climb hand creams.
estivoautumnal 21 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Go later in the evening. By that time the duvet-bound so-called yummy-mummies and kids have gone and the place will be stinking of sweat. You may also be heartened by the asthma inducing atmosphere of chalk dust particles and a nice layer of sweat on the holds.
Tomtom 21 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Head to leeds wall, that place is pretty rank.
 Si_G 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Maybe they should reopen The Edge.
Wonky floors, rubber everywhere, and you could taste the utinals from reception.
I miss it
 beardy mike 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Many moons ago, when i were a youth starting out in Climbing the local wall was an hour and a half away, and was lucky as I lived in London. It stank of sweat and failure as chalk was frowned upon. It was made of funny bricks set into a wall and went along a corridor. We thought it was amazing despite now realising it was shit. There was the constant presence of people going to a badminton court. Freddos didn't exist and there was no cafe. We found out about it by joing a club consisting mainly of bearded men wearing ronhills or in the back of a magazine called Mountain. In short Climbing walls have become pleasant places to be and I like it. Anyone else yearning for the discomforts of yesteryear is a moron.

3
In reply to bouldery bits:

Modern walls are certainly an improvement on places like Sid's in Staylebrdge.
 GarethSL 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

I remember transitioning from the Barn to the newly built Dart Rock...*

Going from the cold, grimy, wad crowded ex-barn to a swanky new wall with soft floor and perfectly grippy holds was quite a bizarre experience. Like going from a greasy spoon to a Michelin star restaurant.

*Both walls are bloody excellent and are some of the cornerstones in my climbing career.
 AlanLittle 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Greasy Prusiks:

I climbed with an Australian who told me they have hand cream dispensers in climbing wall changing rooms down under. The Horror.
 pec 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

> They're even clean. In short Climbing walls have become pleasant places to be and I don't like it. Anyone else yearning for the discomforts of yesteryear? >

What about all those crash mats nowadays? I remember some walls had no mats at all as it was considered part of your psychological training to risk breaking your ankles.
All gone bloody soft these days
 summo 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

I remember when a good wall had bits of stone cemented in, not just bricks inserted side ways or mortar dug out for a finger pocket. A scaffolding bar at the top with a rope you could just slide along left or right. Those were the days.
 Jamie B 22 Mar 2017
In reply to beardy mike:

Sweat and failure? Thou were lucky. When I were a lad climbing wall would make you crawl through 5 miles of toxic sludge just to get to reception, take your amputated foot as locker deposit then lead wall was infested with venomous snakes and used hypodermics sticking out at you. And in't bouldering wall there was always 20 VietCong who'd attack you with machetes if you got off t'ground on their projects. But if you told that to youth of today, they'd never believe you...
In reply to bouldery bits:

Sounds like the wall you remember was under a roof at least. First wall I remember was at Sale Leisure Centre - outside, above the main entrance, accessed via a balcony. Combining that with the common (mis)conception of the prevailing weather in Manchester was not ideal for regular training - would sorted the chalk problem though ( if such an issue had existed back then)
 Mick Ward 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

> Many moons ago, when i were a youth starting out in Climbing the local wall stank of chalk, sweat and failure.

Doutbless you'll be pleased to learn of my first visit to a certain 'not on the radar' venue last night. If I told you where it is, I wouldn't just have to kill you - I'd probably have to kill myself too. There is - literally - an entrance test: pulling the sodding sliding door open. I struggled mightily, goaded by the cackles of laughter from within.

Having (barely) scraped though the entrance exam, naturally an ocean of humiliation awaited inside. I flailed and failed on the ahem 'easy'(!) traverse. An hour later, every move done. Well, that's progress, isn't it? (Don't even dare to think about how far away the redpoint is or what's going to happen on the other traverses.)

No WiFi. No cappuccinos. No <sigh> yummy mummies. Just chalk, sweat, pain (an awful lot of it) and heart-aching failure. Oh and everything courtesy of a world-class setter. (Hey, if he's good enough for Megos, he's good enough for me.)

Can't wait to go back! As Tony Yaniro so memorably put it, "The pain, the pain, it hurts so good..."

Mick
 alx 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:
I didn't realise Awesome Walls had a sliding door?
Post edited at 11:04
 AlanLittle 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

> As Tony Yaniro so memorably put it, "The pain, the pain, it hurts so good..."

Er, I believe that was Max Jones. Or Mark Hudon. From "States of the Art". I hide my head in shame for not knowing off by heart what issue number of Mountain it was in.

 stp 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:
I'm all for nice climbing walls. When half the year is wet, cold and dark the last thing you want is somewhere dingy and an unpleasant place to train. Might be a novelty at first but after 4 months or so of going to the same place I want it to be as nice as possible. Anything to keep motivated to keep going is a plus and an attractive wall is a definite plus point.

Modern walls have come a long way in terms of design, holds and routesetting. They are simply loads better than they used to be. I think it's interesting to see where indoor climbing will take us in the future. Since we can't create new crags the only possible expansion for UK climbing has to be on artificial surfaces.
Post edited at 11:33
In reply to Mick Ward:

Ah, Longy's shed

You're going to have to come to Sheffield to kill me Mick, maybe we could have a pint or two first though
 Bulls Crack 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

I think they have become too anodyne and homogeneous . All bouldering walls seem to be the same now - more convenient for setting but dreary
 Andy Johnson 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Macclesfield Sports Centre wall, 1993. Fixed resin holds on rough breeze block. Back room. Gloomy lighting. Ratty old ropes.

"But you know, we were happy in those days, though we were poor."
 steveriley 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Lancaster Uni (outside)
Shepshed (oversized cupboard)
Loughborough (outside)
Liverpool Uni (balcony)
Ellesmere Port (shuttlecocks)
RIP. The times we had.
 IanMcC 22 Mar 2017
In reply to steveriley:

The original Carnegie Centre, Dunfermline. Half a converted squash court. If you hadn't sprained or broken an ankle on/between the torn and retired gym mats randomly strewn around, you weren't a regular. What lurked in unlit corners? Dark mysteries. One bolt-on had a blue Smartie sweetie jammed inside for the best part of a decade. And was that really a bloodstain where that guy came a cropper a couple of years ago?Through clouds of stale chalk dust at the top of one wall, you could (if you so chose)admire the leotard-clad the ladies of the step aerobics class next door. You could become infuriated as wee boys like Gary Vincent and Greg Boswell cruised past you as you puffed, panted and tumbled.
Happy days.
 Calvi 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Christheclimber:

> Modern walls are certainly an improvement on places like Sid's in Staylebrdge.

How very dare you sir, Sid's was superb, damp and cold, the indoor outdoor wall.
 fred99 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

They're not Climbing Walls any more, they're Climbing GYM's.
Therefore WiFi, posh coffees and a vegetarian cafeteria are an absolute necessity.
 mike123 22 Mar 2017
In reply to beardy mike:
"Anyone else yearning for the discomforts of yesteryear is a moron"
and anyone having a sense of humour failure isn't ?
Just sayin like .

 nniff 22 Mar 2017
In reply to pec:

> What about all those crash mats nowadays? I remember some walls had no mats at all as it was considered part of your psychological training to risk breaking your ankles.All gone bloody soft these days

The Sobell had the big crash mats with loose foam inside them, but not enough foam to fill the area covered by the mat. Pick the wrong spot and you had two sheets of fabric between you and the concrete floor - psychological training for tiny RPs - it looks reassuring, but it's not going to stop you really.

Mind you, it did have the ladies' keep fit on a Tuesday evening.
 neilh 22 Mar 2017
In reply to andyjohnson0:

Macclefield was considering the next generation after the wall at Altrincham....but it was pretty small. Altrincham was a classy place.I remember seeing Quentin Fisher pratising his dyno's there- no mats. People would struggle round with divers weights clipped to their harnesses. The place was rammed on Tuesday night, people travelled for miles to go.You also had the balcony viewing of the ladies aerobic classes.

You could really fine tune some of your finger strngth there, and soem of the problems were outrageous.
 TheFasting 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

I only started climbing last October and still every gym I've been to has had that familiar smell of chalk mixed with rubber and foot sweat.
 Einriba 22 Mar 2017
In reply to GarethSL:

Ha, not been climbing long. But my earliest experiences were at Magic Wood (now closed) in St Neot, moved to The Barn, then Dart Rock, then the Life Centre.....

I've been told if I survived climbing in Magic Wood, I'll do alright else where....

....I loved it in Magic Wood. That's not to discredit the others - they're all good. But there's something about MW that appealed to me.
 lummox 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Before you were born, the height of sophistication for me was Rothwell sports centre. They had mats underneath the wall. Something you could only dream of at Leeds University ( first wall in the world ) or the Richard Dunn centre in Bratfud.
 AlanLittle 22 Mar 2017
In reply to nniff:

Do I detect a theme emerging? Iffley Road in Oxford had ladies' gymnastics on Monday nights. The ladies were undergraduates, so well over the hill as gymnasts but we didn't mind.

There was one tiny mat iirc. I must have missed it the time I broke my wrist.
 pec 22 Mar 2017
 Durbs 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Jamie B:

Luxury!

Our nearest was at the top of K2. The only way in was to carry two buckets of coal to the summit, whilst being whipped with a series of prussiks.
 Wingnut 22 Mar 2017
In reply to AlanLittle:

>>There was one tiny mat

Ah, yes, the lesser-spotted migratory gym mat. As in, you look down and find it's migrated to the other end of the wall.
 beardy mike 22 Mar 2017
In reply to mike123:

Haha - likewise. Obviously you missed m mimicking the OP and my taking the piss out of bearded men in Ronhills despite being a bearded man, although I must impress on the reader that I've never worn Ronhills.
 Dave Garnett 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Wingnut:

Is this the wall up on the balcony overlooking the sports hall? The one they improved by covering it with green anti-climb paint?
 Wingnut 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Durbs:

Prusiks? Bah, luxury! We 'ad to make do with a bit of barbed wire off the nearest fence ...
 Marek 22 Mar 2017
In reply to andyjohnson0:

> Macclesfield Sports Centre wall, 1993. Fixed resin holds on rough breeze block. Back room. Gloomy lighting. Ratty old ropes."But you know, we were happy in those days, though we were poor."

Ah, but have you been to the 'other place' in Macc? Mick Ward's description was spot-on. Apart from the sliding door.
 Dave Garnett 22 Mar 2017
In reply to nniff:

> Mind you, it did have the ladies' keep fit on a Tuesday evening.

if you went to the Kelsey Kerridge in Cambridge at the right time you could perform on the wall while a whole class behind you could express their appreciation. Sounds very ego-boosting but it was rather disturbing, especially if you were there on your own.
 Dave Garnett 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Marek:

> Ah, but have you been to the 'other place' in Macc? Mick Ward's description was spot-on. Apart from the sliding door.

I've heard of it but was never allowed in...
 BobtheBagger 22 Mar 2017
In reply to neilh:

> .You could really fine tune some of your finger strngth there, and soem of the problems were outrageous.

Are we still talking climbing here, or the ladies from the aerobics?
 sjminfife 22 Mar 2017
In reply to lummox:
Something you could only dream of at Leeds University ( first wall in the world )
Plenty of stars honed their skills on that wall and plenty like myself soon found their limits

 Wingnut 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

The one I was thinking about was the Berghaus wall, which is indeed on a balcony ... don't remember the green paint, though?
 neilh 22 Mar 2017
In reply to BobtheBagger:

Both!
 Hay 22 Mar 2017
In reply to IanMcC:
Happy days indeed Ian.
Fall off one wall, hit the other.
Condemned matting, chocolate/jobby in the bolt holes.
Ferociously complex and finger damaging feature eliminates.
El Diablo cruising making it look easy, well HVS anyway.

I genuinely miss it.

Bruce
 John Gresty 22 Mar 2017
In reply to lummox:

Rothwell wall, where one could climb up the wall, on to the balcony and into the bar and then back the same way, eventually they blocked off route.
A pre-official opening tuning session on the Richard Dunn wall, if something was too easy Don Robinson got out his hit hammer and knocked a bit off.
Barnsley sports centre wall, the leisure pool was fun afterwards.
But it was the Leeds uni wall really started it all, Thursday evening in the winter, bus to Leeds, walk up the Headrow, underage drinking afterwards and hope somebody would give me a lift home afterwards.
In reply to Calvi:
> How very dare you sir, Sid's was superb, damp and cold, the indoor outdoor wall.

I very dare! Actually I used to enjoy climbing at Sid's doing the Steve Bancroft problems. Nice hard floor, weeping holds, shiny pebbles and a lumpy bit of concrete/rock? at the bottom of the left hand side of wall used to add some spice to the problems. It was a good to have a pint in the bar afterwards, a bar would make a good addition to most modern walls.
Post edited at 17:09
 Robert Durran 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Dave Garnett:

> if you went to the Kelsey Kerridge in Cambridge at the right time you could perform on the wall while a whole class behind you could express their appreciation.

Though I do remember a friend falling off and taking out the aerobics ghetto blaster.

OP bouldery bits 22 Mar 2017
In reply to beardy mike:
> Haha - likewise. Obviously you missed m mimicking the OP and my taking the piss out of bearded men in Ronhills despite being a bearded man, although I must impress on the reader that I've never worn Ronhills.

Ironically, I have several pairs of Ronny's.
Post edited at 17:45
 beardy mike 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Oh jesus... whatever you do, don't grow a beard aswell. Or start drinking your pints out of jugs.
 radar 22 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:
This thread has triggered a few flashbacks - Lancaster Uni wall was my 'home' wall when I was at uni there, few goes on Leeds Uni during my postgrad. All interspersed with Altrincham, Charlotte Mason, Rothwell and the Armitage Centre. Then when I could not escape the rat race, Glossop wall became my local. Got busy on aerobics night, can't think why? There were also occasional forays to Oldham wall, but the one way system in Oldham is a pig and we often couldn't find the place so gave up and went for a pint and a kebab (on Narnia bread) in Ashton.
Post edited at 19:03
 AlanLittle 22 Mar 2017
In reply to radar:

I'm not sure if I was ever actually in the old wall at Plas y Brenin, or just watched the dream sequence in Stone Monkey too many times.
 Mick Ward 22 Mar 2017
In reply to Graeme Alderson:

> Ah, Longy's shed You're going to have to come to Sheffield to kill me Mick, maybe we could have a pint or two first though

There's always one smart-arse out there! Mind you, you were probably the person most likely to pick up on that whopping great clue. I gather things went swimmingly the other day and everyone was well chuffed.

I suppose technically it's Shed 2. God knows, the original venue was no pushover either. Who could forget Ian Vickers flashing the 'F7b traverse' and thinking it was "a bit hard" for the grade? Well as it was really F8b it would be "a bit hard", wouldn't it.

Yeah maybe we'd better sink a pint or three first. And then some of your alarmingly expensive red wine. And then... And then... < "Lemme tell you another story..." >

Mick
 Calvi 23 Mar 2017
In reply to Christheclimber:

Happy days.
 Dave Garnett 23 Mar 2017
In reply to Wingnut:

> The one I was thinking about was the Berghaus wall, which is indeed on a balcony ... don't remember the green paint, though?

No, that was a relatively recent improvement. It was still there last year, though I didn't climb - I was there for the netball.
 MischaHY 23 Mar 2017
In reply to bouldery bits:

Plenty of people here who evidently need to get themselves down to Glossop wall. It's the dream.
 sjminfife 23 Mar 2017
In reply to IanMcC:

I think they had to put scaffolding up to change the lights!!

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