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Placeholder for anyone who's just got back in from a weekend of sunny climbing...
4
In reply to Just Tintin:
Thanks Just Tintin for getting the post up. Hopefully everyone has been out and about this weekend, and not getting too sunburnt!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=661479
AJM: Don’t worry, we all need to be doing a bit more everything
annak: Welcome back! If grades don’t seem like the right short or medium term goal, maybe put together a ticklist?
Ally Smith: Congratulations on ticking the whole crag, inspiring!
hms: probably sensible- back two hangs make me feel like I’m going to throw up, it’s so unnatural.
Richard Popp: Did your ring finger recover from Sunday?
Dandan82: When did you aim to start your peak phase?
JJ: “A day without a fall is a day where I have not pushed myself”. I like your new 6 week goal
TheFasting: Nice one- 6a should be do-able just through climbing a bunch of different style to build experience.
hokkyo: Great to see you are back into it with 7/7! Tell us a little about your MTG…
TonyB: Hope your skin regenerated and you’re having a great time in Font, the weather looks amazing.
Tyler: 7a OS on day one isn’t so bad, how did the sunburn progress as the trip went on?
ad111: Sorry to hear about the ankle- impressed you soldiered on and skied with it! Sounds like you have recovery protocol nailed, but be careful with going back to boulder too soon- it won’t be too stable for a while.
Lancer: Pretty impressive to solo VS given your best onsight grade!
guy127917: Try harder
leeboy: Good to see you getting the sessions in. If you don’t have access to more weight you could try a squat variation like front-squat or 1 legged (pistol)?
biscuit: Great to hear you had a solid week, did you get on Concrete Dream?
Spengler: You can get weights *really* cheaply on gumtree or whatever because so many people buy them and never use them (but also don’t be that guy!)
the sheep: mr consistency.
mattrm: I’ve been living in london too long to remember what a garden is. Sounds like a good workout though!
Just Tintin: Congratulations on ticking GG- such a cool looking line, on my todo list this spring.
Bobling: Focus on your priorities is good
Thanks Just Tintin for getting the post up. Hopefully everyone has been out and about this weekend, and not getting too sunburnt!
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity. UKC fitclub is a rich community with posters sharing their goals, noting successes and failures and offering support to those struggling to maintain motivation. Anyone interested in starting is very welcome to join, but to get the most of UKC fit club you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits and drive you towards achieving your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
The following training article by Alex Barrows gives an excellent breakdown on training the four main "energy systems" specific to climbing:
http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climb...
Last week’s thread can be found here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=661479
AJM: Don’t worry, we all need to be doing a bit more everything
annak: Welcome back! If grades don’t seem like the right short or medium term goal, maybe put together a ticklist?
Ally Smith: Congratulations on ticking the whole crag, inspiring!
hms: probably sensible- back two hangs make me feel like I’m going to throw up, it’s so unnatural.
Richard Popp: Did your ring finger recover from Sunday?
Dandan82: When did you aim to start your peak phase?
JJ: “A day without a fall is a day where I have not pushed myself”. I like your new 6 week goal
TheFasting: Nice one- 6a should be do-able just through climbing a bunch of different style to build experience.
hokkyo: Great to see you are back into it with 7/7! Tell us a little about your MTG…
TonyB: Hope your skin regenerated and you’re having a great time in Font, the weather looks amazing.
Tyler: 7a OS on day one isn’t so bad, how did the sunburn progress as the trip went on?
ad111: Sorry to hear about the ankle- impressed you soldiered on and skied with it! Sounds like you have recovery protocol nailed, but be careful with going back to boulder too soon- it won’t be too stable for a while.
Lancer: Pretty impressive to solo VS given your best onsight grade!
guy127917: Try harder
leeboy: Good to see you getting the sessions in. If you don’t have access to more weight you could try a squat variation like front-squat or 1 legged (pistol)?
biscuit: Great to hear you had a solid week, did you get on Concrete Dream?
Spengler: You can get weights *really* cheaply on gumtree or whatever because so many people buy them and never use them (but also don’t be that guy!)
the sheep: mr consistency.
mattrm: I’ve been living in london too long to remember what a garden is. Sounds like a good workout though!
Just Tintin: Congratulations on ticking GG- such a cool looking line, on my todo list this spring.
Bobling: Focus on your priorities is good
4
In reply to Just Tintin:
Because I didnt do the top post, I can actually post first this week
Monday:
Sprints: 10 mins warmup, 1 min sprint, 2:30 recovery, 10 minutes warm down
Max hangs- strength progressed nicely from previous week: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GTsxKE6-Sa-GIrNiDAv-YMytR-Bdk9sc8ey...
Couldnt
6 on 6 off x 5 aerocap, after hang session could barely climb F5
Tuesday: rest day
Wednesday: AeroCap fingerboard- 7s/3s x 6, 2 minutes rest x 3
Fall practice with Jen- I didn't think my climbing was overly affected by fear of falling, but after doing 30 minutes of 1 bolt lead falls, I felt so much more confident pushing it above bolts. This carried over to getting outside this weekend. Definitely a worthwhile session for me to do every now and again.
Thursday: Rest day, drove to Portland
Friday: 10 pitches up to 6c on Cheyne Wears getting sunburnt. All but one O/S so obviously not trying hard enough
Saturday: Went down to Coastguard cliffs, everything was soaking wet. Did Xaviers Wall 6a, but it wasn't a very pleasant experience so we sacked it off and went to check out the Lost Valley, which was tiny and rammed. Really enjoyed Cadwallader 6b+. Annoyingly split my forefinger tip on the walk back from coastguard.
Sunday: Spent the morning at the New Cuttings working on The Vulcanites 7a. Did all the moves and dogged it to the top, but couldn't put it together in on TR. Skin was breaking down. Quick dip in the sea and return to London. Knackered.
This week is week 5, an "on" week, and I'm very interested to see if my finger strength progresses again. Haven't got in the gym for a couple of weeks so will try hard to get that done this week. Haven't been too religious with stretching recently, really need to get back to doing that a lot. I actually warmed up with a band at the crag this weekend though which is sort of progress!
Weight 81.5kg (steady), this week I will try and eat carefully to maintain that/drop a little.
Because I didnt do the top post, I can actually post first this week
Monday:
Sprints: 10 mins warmup, 1 min sprint, 2:30 recovery, 10 minutes warm down
Max hangs- strength progressed nicely from previous week: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1GTsxKE6-Sa-GIrNiDAv-YMytR-Bdk9sc8ey...
Couldnt
6 on 6 off x 5 aerocap, after hang session could barely climb F5
Tuesday: rest day
Wednesday: AeroCap fingerboard- 7s/3s x 6, 2 minutes rest x 3
Fall practice with Jen- I didn't think my climbing was overly affected by fear of falling, but after doing 30 minutes of 1 bolt lead falls, I felt so much more confident pushing it above bolts. This carried over to getting outside this weekend. Definitely a worthwhile session for me to do every now and again.
Thursday: Rest day, drove to Portland
Friday: 10 pitches up to 6c on Cheyne Wears getting sunburnt. All but one O/S so obviously not trying hard enough
Saturday: Went down to Coastguard cliffs, everything was soaking wet. Did Xaviers Wall 6a, but it wasn't a very pleasant experience so we sacked it off and went to check out the Lost Valley, which was tiny and rammed. Really enjoyed Cadwallader 6b+. Annoyingly split my forefinger tip on the walk back from coastguard.
Sunday: Spent the morning at the New Cuttings working on The Vulcanites 7a. Did all the moves and dogged it to the top, but couldn't put it together in on TR. Skin was breaking down. Quick dip in the sea and return to London. Knackered.
This week is week 5, an "on" week, and I'm very interested to see if my finger strength progresses again. Haven't got in the gym for a couple of weeks so will try hard to get that done this week. Haven't been too religious with stretching recently, really need to get back to doing that a lot. I actually warmed up with a band at the crag this weekend though which is sort of progress!
Weight 81.5kg (steady), this week I will try and eat carefully to maintain that/drop a little.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Fair point!
A few ok sessions this week.
Wednesday - pullups pyramid again. Unweighted numbers down a bit as feeling a bit achey (miniAJM keeps getting heavier and also seems to keep requiring more bouncing!) But the top of the pyramid essentially unchanged.
Saturday - max hangs lattice style (ie assisted 1-arm 5s stuff). Some small progress which given how conditionsy this session is is good news. Nudging pretty close to 90% on the test edge now even at current weight.
Sunday - walking on the coast with visiting friends. Had meant to train in the evening but feeling rather achey from a few hours carrying miniAJM in a sling so decided to postpone until today instead.
Hoping to get the Dartmoor this weekend which would be good.
> AJM: Don’t worry, we all need to be doing a bit more everything
Fair point!
A few ok sessions this week.
Wednesday - pullups pyramid again. Unweighted numbers down a bit as feeling a bit achey (miniAJM keeps getting heavier and also seems to keep requiring more bouncing!) But the top of the pyramid essentially unchanged.
Saturday - max hangs lattice style (ie assisted 1-arm 5s stuff). Some small progress which given how conditionsy this session is is good news. Nudging pretty close to 90% on the test edge now even at current weight.
Sunday - walking on the coast with visiting friends. Had meant to train in the evening but feeling rather achey from a few hours carrying miniAJM in a sling so decided to postpone until today instead.
Hoping to get the Dartmoor this weekend which would be good.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy,
The weather was a little too amazing yesterday at 24 degrees.
Pretty mixed week for me. I certainly got my rest days in.
Mon - rest
Tue - bouldering - stopped early as skin was still thin from the gritstone
Wed - woke up with really awkward pain in palm, couldn't move touch thumb with little finger without pain. It also hurt when I pushed with a flat palm against a door to open it.
Thur - pain worse
Fri- Saw physio, he said that the muscle was too tight and going into spasms. He absolutely laid into it with the most intense and painful massage I have ever had. Felt better.
Sat - heat treatment and massage on ferry, arrive Font late and did a few experimental blues at Sabots. Hand was OK.
Sun - Hand felt almost normal. Amazing. The £30 physio was probably the best money I've ever spent. Went to Petit Bois. I didn't push it, but did Big Jim (a cool 6C highball). I had a look at Baleine, a route that I'd always thought looked cool in photos. I had a few goes but struggled to match the crimpy rail before the crux move. I think in the hot weather, it would have cost a lot of skin to keep trying this, so I decided to sack it off.
Skin is pretty good, mysterious palm pain has gone, I'm taking the kids round the children's circuit then time to get crushing.
> TonyB: Hope your skin regenerated and you’re having a great time in Font, the weather looks amazing.
Thanks Guy,
The weather was a little too amazing yesterday at 24 degrees.
Pretty mixed week for me. I certainly got my rest days in.
Mon - rest
Tue - bouldering - stopped early as skin was still thin from the gritstone
Wed - woke up with really awkward pain in palm, couldn't move touch thumb with little finger without pain. It also hurt when I pushed with a flat palm against a door to open it.
Thur - pain worse
Fri- Saw physio, he said that the muscle was too tight and going into spasms. He absolutely laid into it with the most intense and painful massage I have ever had. Felt better.
Sat - heat treatment and massage on ferry, arrive Font late and did a few experimental blues at Sabots. Hand was OK.
Sun - Hand felt almost normal. Amazing. The £30 physio was probably the best money I've ever spent. Went to Petit Bois. I didn't push it, but did Big Jim (a cool 6C highball). I had a look at Baleine, a route that I'd always thought looked cool in photos. I had a few goes but struggled to match the crimpy rail before the crux move. I think in the hot weather, it would have cost a lot of skin to keep trying this, so I decided to sack it off.
Skin is pretty good, mysterious palm pain has gone, I'm taking the kids round the children's circuit then time to get crushing.
5
In reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy,
Just like you I need to start focussing a bit more on stretching!
Ankle update for the start of last week, could stand on one leg without pain whilst holding onto the door handle = good improvement.
M: Rest and recovery
T: Very careful indoor bouldering, no risk of falling and down climbing everything.
W: Rest and Recovery
T: Outdoor bouldering! Went to a cool new spot and got my first 7a of the season! + Got to the top hold of a 7b
F: Rest
S: Outdoor lead. It was freezing - kept snowing as soon as I reached the first bolt and pockets were full of ice. Managed to insight a couple of 6Cs which I was surprised and pleased about. Ankle was V. sore by the end of the day.
S: Rest
STG: Climb 4 7a+ (things are looking positive)
If it's not too cold this evening I'm hoping to get out and try a 7a+ that looks my style so that could be the start of completing my STG.
Hi Guy,
Just like you I need to start focussing a bit more on stretching!
Ankle update for the start of last week, could stand on one leg without pain whilst holding onto the door handle = good improvement.
M: Rest and recovery
T: Very careful indoor bouldering, no risk of falling and down climbing everything.
W: Rest and Recovery
T: Outdoor bouldering! Went to a cool new spot and got my first 7a of the season! + Got to the top hold of a 7b
F: Rest
S: Outdoor lead. It was freezing - kept snowing as soon as I reached the first bolt and pockets were full of ice. Managed to insight a couple of 6Cs which I was surprised and pleased about. Ankle was V. sore by the end of the day.
S: Rest
STG: Climb 4 7a+ (things are looking positive)
If it's not too cold this evening I'm hoping to get out and try a 7a+ that looks my style so that could be the start of completing my STG.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy, the aim was to peak for Margalef (now) but because of a slightly iffy finger, i eased off the hard stuff a few weeks early and that seemed to result in an early peak, I've been feeling really strong and fresh for a couple of weeks now.
What it did teach me though is that i think i need a full 2 weeks of taper to get a really good peak, something to factor in for the future.
Quick one from me as I'm on my phone, quick run down of last week and the first 2 days here in Margalef then I'll do a full report in 2 weeks time.
M: Indoor boulder; continuity 8 on 8 off x3. Also ticked a hard pocket problem that i had been working, went really comfortably.
T: Indoor routes; 2on 1off x5. Was supposed to do x10 but I was listening to my body (and my finger) and half a session seemed right. Good and hard though on 7a+/7b
Core.
W: Nothing
T: Indoor boulder; was supposed to do 2on 1off again but partner never showed up, so i had a good punchy hard boulder session on new slopey problems instead, felt really good.
Core.
F: Nothing
S: Early flight to Spain, got to Margalef by 2pm so we went and touched some rock straight away, just 5s and 6s but nice to ease into it.
S: Ca La Marta; few warm up routes then repeated a 7a for Mrs Dandan to have a go at, went comfortably. Wandered up to Cingles de la Tabernas to look at Local Hero 8a, there was a french dude on it so i watched him go through the crux and then had a play on a nearby 7a+ to stay warm.
Eventually managed to get on local hero and it is very, very good. It has a low crux which is probably a long V5/V6 boulder problem and quite obvious on decent enough holds, then the real trick is to hang on for a further 25m of 7a/b climbing with no significant rests! All moves done on first attempt, some of the higher clipping positions are going to be tricky, but I'm definitely keen to go back for another shot. My friend Jason is keen to return too, he cruised the crux like it was nothing and was considerably more concerned about peeling off somewhere in the long top section!
Heading to Doctor Feelgood today for a rematch, fingers crossed!
> Dandan82: When did you aim to start your peak phase?
Cheers Guy, the aim was to peak for Margalef (now) but because of a slightly iffy finger, i eased off the hard stuff a few weeks early and that seemed to result in an early peak, I've been feeling really strong and fresh for a couple of weeks now.
What it did teach me though is that i think i need a full 2 weeks of taper to get a really good peak, something to factor in for the future.
Quick one from me as I'm on my phone, quick run down of last week and the first 2 days here in Margalef then I'll do a full report in 2 weeks time.
M: Indoor boulder; continuity 8 on 8 off x3. Also ticked a hard pocket problem that i had been working, went really comfortably.
T: Indoor routes; 2on 1off x5. Was supposed to do x10 but I was listening to my body (and my finger) and half a session seemed right. Good and hard though on 7a+/7b
Core.
W: Nothing
T: Indoor boulder; was supposed to do 2on 1off again but partner never showed up, so i had a good punchy hard boulder session on new slopey problems instead, felt really good.
Core.
F: Nothing
S: Early flight to Spain, got to Margalef by 2pm so we went and touched some rock straight away, just 5s and 6s but nice to ease into it.
S: Ca La Marta; few warm up routes then repeated a 7a for Mrs Dandan to have a go at, went comfortably. Wandered up to Cingles de la Tabernas to look at Local Hero 8a, there was a french dude on it so i watched him go through the crux and then had a play on a nearby 7a+ to stay warm.
Eventually managed to get on local hero and it is very, very good. It has a low crux which is probably a long V5/V6 boulder problem and quite obvious on decent enough holds, then the real trick is to hang on for a further 25m of 7a/b climbing with no significant rests! All moves done on first attempt, some of the higher clipping positions are going to be tricky, but I'm definitely keen to go back for another shot. My friend Jason is keen to return too, he cruised the crux like it was nothing and was considerably more concerned about peeling off somewhere in the long top section!
Heading to Doctor Feelgood today for a rematch, fingers crossed!
2
In reply to guy127917:
In reply to guy127917:
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the stats again Guy - good week from me - seem to me in a bit of a purple patch without any intentional peaking going on.
Week 15
M - 1hr/28km on the bike. Mild bit of stretching.
T - Shoulder stability workshop from Mr 1mmHg. Needless to say I drove home with aching shoulders and core and a new found appreciation for how weak I am in some departments (to say nothing of how much I rely on kneebars; I even got heckled into trying to kneebar the lattice board – it’d probably go with a pad on…)
I did some benchmarking on the “home” Lattice edge/pulley set-up too. 7.5/8kg L/R 4-finger drag (~90% = 8a+ strength? i.e. super weak for the 8b+ I managed earlier in the year!) I’ll also take solace in being stronger than Paul Reeve! Half crimp so poor I didn’t even bother measuring it. Beastmaker lower campus rung type slot 1.5/2kg assist for comparison.
Quick 80move warm-down circuit of the lattice board to make me feel better.
W - Nowt – shoulder DOMS!
T - Cave – First post work daylight session. Warm-up – feel light and springy. Fell off Trigger Cut. Fell off a bigger link from 1st kneebar going for the final jug on TC. Then proceeded to fall off the first move of Broken Heart 3 times, and fall off the heel/toe cam when I finally did that move. All getting a bit stressful.
Rested, spotted Ted and then nailed the first move, got into the second kneebar and felt super solid where often it’s felt insecure. Smashed on and did the deed - Broken Trigger - first “proper” 8A? (i.e. sub 15 moves)
Tried The Wire afterwards and got a surprise highpoint on that too. Then had a general boulder warm-down repeating a few things and getting scared trying a highball. Should have done some rings & core when I got home, but had a celebratory beer & pizza instead
F - Rest. Stretched.
S - Tor. Got on Mecca after Ted played a good heckle on Thursday. 3 tie ins. 1st go sacked off the dropknee method as the exit/ninja kick is plain weird. With millimetrically accurate beta from Ted, did the crux by the deep lock method 3 times. 2nd tie-in did jug to undercut (wet) and worked groove – kneebar felt very secure with Send pad - used sloper method at top of groove instead of long reach (shoulder unstable at anything approaching fully open). 3rd go – almost did crux to top – fell off move to sloper when I didn’t put R knee back in the groove. Felt easy afterwards. Very encouraging.
Bouldered to warm-down. Extraheinous, 7B+ after a couple of goes. Still couldn’t do undercut/crimp. Played on Ben’s roof extension, but struggled to keep my bum off the floor. DIY when home.
S - 29km bike ride in the sun, more DIY, then quick 80min session at Harmers wood – repeating the not-a-f6C-traverse and a few up problems – still not quite dry enough for the harder ones.
STG – end of Apr:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control); re-introduce aero-cap
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger (TICK!) & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – tick
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
MTG – end of May:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or natural grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger (TICK), In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Devil's Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
In reply to guy127917:
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for the stats again Guy - good week from me - seem to me in a bit of a purple patch without any intentional peaking going on.
Week 15
M - 1hr/28km on the bike. Mild bit of stretching.
T - Shoulder stability workshop from Mr 1mmHg. Needless to say I drove home with aching shoulders and core and a new found appreciation for how weak I am in some departments (to say nothing of how much I rely on kneebars; I even got heckled into trying to kneebar the lattice board – it’d probably go with a pad on…)
I did some benchmarking on the “home” Lattice edge/pulley set-up too. 7.5/8kg L/R 4-finger drag (~90% = 8a+ strength? i.e. super weak for the 8b+ I managed earlier in the year!) I’ll also take solace in being stronger than Paul Reeve! Half crimp so poor I didn’t even bother measuring it. Beastmaker lower campus rung type slot 1.5/2kg assist for comparison.
Quick 80move warm-down circuit of the lattice board to make me feel better.
W - Nowt – shoulder DOMS!
T - Cave – First post work daylight session. Warm-up – feel light and springy. Fell off Trigger Cut. Fell off a bigger link from 1st kneebar going for the final jug on TC. Then proceeded to fall off the first move of Broken Heart 3 times, and fall off the heel/toe cam when I finally did that move. All getting a bit stressful.
Rested, spotted Ted and then nailed the first move, got into the second kneebar and felt super solid where often it’s felt insecure. Smashed on and did the deed - Broken Trigger - first “proper” 8A? (i.e. sub 15 moves)
Tried The Wire afterwards and got a surprise highpoint on that too. Then had a general boulder warm-down repeating a few things and getting scared trying a highball. Should have done some rings & core when I got home, but had a celebratory beer & pizza instead
F - Rest. Stretched.
S - Tor. Got on Mecca after Ted played a good heckle on Thursday. 3 tie ins. 1st go sacked off the dropknee method as the exit/ninja kick is plain weird. With millimetrically accurate beta from Ted, did the crux by the deep lock method 3 times. 2nd tie-in did jug to undercut (wet) and worked groove – kneebar felt very secure with Send pad - used sloper method at top of groove instead of long reach (shoulder unstable at anything approaching fully open). 3rd go – almost did crux to top – fell off move to sloper when I didn’t put R knee back in the groove. Felt easy afterwards. Very encouraging.
Bouldered to warm-down. Extraheinous, 7B+ after a couple of goes. Still couldn’t do undercut/crimp. Played on Ben’s roof extension, but struggled to keep my bum off the floor. DIY when home.
S - 29km bike ride in the sun, more DIY, then quick 80min session at Harmers wood – repeating the not-a-f6C-traverse and a few up problems – still not quite dry enough for the harder ones.
STG – end of Apr:
Maintain grumble free elbows
Stick to the plan; an-cap & specific strength gains for projects (deadhangs on pockets & small edges and steep bouldering with good scapular control); re-introduce aero-cap
Get a new floor fitted in lounge & hall and make room for the lady to move in.
RPs on cave projects; Broken Trigger (TICK!) & new bolted line
Get a new bathroom fitted – tick
Deadlift 110kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
MTG – end of May:
Stick to the plan: An-cap, re-introduce aero-cap and strength gains
Aim to get an-cap levels up to >33moves/70seconds (ultimately get my an-cap=aero-power level when first tested on the lattice board; 39moves!)
Aim to get finger-strength up to 100% on Lattice rung & BM2K lower slot, with associated shoulder stability to go with it. (Pillbox, Cheshire Sandstone & 30degree system board bouldering; assisted 1-arm deadhangs & weighted BM2K lower edge/slot max-hangs)
Deadlift 120kg 1RM in a proper gym/Olympic bar
LTG – end 2017:
Climb >8a on 2 new rock-types; slate & conglomerate (or natural grit traverse?)
Investigate FA options at Malham
8A/+’s in the cave: Broken Trigger (TICK), In Life (TICK) or The Wire
The Traverse of the Gods.
Kilnsey Project(s).
Bonuses: Devil's Gorge project(s), Tor link-up project, The Brute.
3
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers - it was a bit of a battle
I've got a load of footage to edit into something coherent once I master Lightworks
> Congratulations on Broken Trigger!
Cheers - it was a bit of a battle
I've got a load of footage to edit into something coherent once I master Lightworks
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy,
This week I worked on my comfort zone. The aim each week is:
- two 1 hour fall practice sessions (1 indoor, 1 outdoor) - did the indoor sessions last week but not outdoor
- 5 falls each time I climb - out of three climbing days I did: day 1 = 3, day 2 = 0 and day 3 = 1 or 2 - need to work on this
- lead every time I go climbing - nailed it!
Last week:
Mon - fingerboard session - still increasing weight and decreasing assistance in general. Putting this in a graph has been a great way of visualising my progress (thanks Guy) - before I did this I felt like I wasn't getting any stronger but clearly I am. Really nice to see
Fall practice, I did this for 30-60mins then did a bit of leading. Went really well and I felt pretty confident. Biggest fall was about 2 foot of rope above bolt.
Tues - Rest
Weds - fingerboard - aimed to just do two sets but got to the wall exhausted, didn't warm up properly, strained my finger a bit and then walked away. I decided to focus on fall practice and leading. Similar to the other day but with smaller falls as feeling pretty on edge.
Thurs - Rest and drive to Portland
Fri – Climbed at Cheyne Wears, Portland - 6 O/S leads up to 6a - 3 leads with rests and one top rope climb. Took 3 falls so 2 short of my goal but was good to get the feeling.
Sat - Headed to Coastguard south but was very greasy and I felt pretty on edge there but was encouraged to keep going and it was great to complete the climb and increase my comfort zone in these conditions. Headed back to Cheyne Wears and did 3 more O/S leads up to 6a+ and dogged a great 6b+ which I would like to come back and do clean. Nice little quarry but packed.
Sun - Perfect morning at the New Cuttings on a few interesting climbs with a hard little finish. Worked a 7a on top rope and got all the moves but just need to fix them all together. I lost power pretty quickly on it. Would love to come back and do this on lead. Exhausted after three days climbing!
Additionally I managed to do all my other outdoor climbing goals from last week (ease into climbing each day, look at the route first and then commit, lead everyday and redpoint if necessary to complete a route).
5 weeks to go until my 7a lead outdoors ;D
To do:
1. complete my food plan - will do tomorrow
2. update my training plan to prioritise mental training - in the process of doing today and will include gym and running
3. lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall etc. - ongoing
4. keep a note of my mindset and evaluate it next week - have not done this. Starting today.
Thanks Guy,
This week I worked on my comfort zone. The aim each week is:
- two 1 hour fall practice sessions (1 indoor, 1 outdoor) - did the indoor sessions last week but not outdoor
- 5 falls each time I climb - out of three climbing days I did: day 1 = 3, day 2 = 0 and day 3 = 1 or 2 - need to work on this
- lead every time I go climbing - nailed it!
Last week:
Mon - fingerboard session - still increasing weight and decreasing assistance in general. Putting this in a graph has been a great way of visualising my progress (thanks Guy) - before I did this I felt like I wasn't getting any stronger but clearly I am. Really nice to see
Fall practice, I did this for 30-60mins then did a bit of leading. Went really well and I felt pretty confident. Biggest fall was about 2 foot of rope above bolt.
Tues - Rest
Weds - fingerboard - aimed to just do two sets but got to the wall exhausted, didn't warm up properly, strained my finger a bit and then walked away. I decided to focus on fall practice and leading. Similar to the other day but with smaller falls as feeling pretty on edge.
Thurs - Rest and drive to Portland
Fri – Climbed at Cheyne Wears, Portland - 6 O/S leads up to 6a - 3 leads with rests and one top rope climb. Took 3 falls so 2 short of my goal but was good to get the feeling.
Sat - Headed to Coastguard south but was very greasy and I felt pretty on edge there but was encouraged to keep going and it was great to complete the climb and increase my comfort zone in these conditions. Headed back to Cheyne Wears and did 3 more O/S leads up to 6a+ and dogged a great 6b+ which I would like to come back and do clean. Nice little quarry but packed.
Sun - Perfect morning at the New Cuttings on a few interesting climbs with a hard little finish. Worked a 7a on top rope and got all the moves but just need to fix them all together. I lost power pretty quickly on it. Would love to come back and do this on lead. Exhausted after three days climbing!
Additionally I managed to do all my other outdoor climbing goals from last week (ease into climbing each day, look at the route first and then commit, lead everyday and redpoint if necessary to complete a route).
5 weeks to go until my 7a lead outdoors ;D
To do:
1. complete my food plan - will do tomorrow
2. update my training plan to prioritise mental training - in the process of doing today and will include gym and running
3. lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall, lead, fall etc. - ongoing
4. keep a note of my mindset and evaluate it next week - have not done this. Starting today.
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
May I join in? I've been posting for some time on Power Club on the other channel but it's been disappointingly non-interactive lately; the level of helpfulness & banter seems better over here.
So: I was an old school traddie in the 80s & 90s climbing steadily around HVS/E1, the occasional E2 on a good day. Had a long sabbatical from climbing due to family, emigration etc. Started again a few years ago together with my son, who is now 13 and mainly interested in indoor bouldering. These days I mostly sport climb; have redpointed a handful of 7a's and one blatantly soft 7a+. I'm 56 years old and aspire to redpoint an 8a before I hit 60.
I'm a British expat living in Bavaria. The Frankenjura is by far my favourite among the local areas, so shortish, powerful, not terribly intellectually demanding tends to be the name of the game.
Short Term Goal (April): moonboard "benchmark" 6B+; weight down from 84 to 82kg.
Medium Term Goal (2017): redpoint 7b
Long Term Goal (before 60): redpoint 8a
M: 40 minutes mobility & shoulder presses
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Short & desultory session, both of us tired & I wasn't feeling fully recovered from the weekend. Did a few max hangs at home afterwards in order to feel that I'd at least made some effort.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Aerocap mileage - a dozen routes in the 5c to 6a+ range. Pleasant relaxed session.
T: Bike to work one hour
F: Moonboard. Did all the moves on Wuthering Heights; touched but couldn't hold the finish on my best attempt. Soon.
S: Watched Shauna cruise to glory in Meiringen, then allowed near-success yesterday to seduce me into trying a second consecutive day on the moonboard with predictable results. No tick.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Warmed up on slabby balance problems, because they were the only realistic option in the circumstances, and because I have neglected them in training lately so that they have become a weakness. Then a dozen aerocap-ish circuits in the 5c to 6b+ range.
Glorious sunny weekend spent at home / at the wall due to family commitments at the beginning of the Easter school holidays. Never mind; I have the next two weekends free.
May I join in? I've been posting for some time on Power Club on the other channel but it's been disappointingly non-interactive lately; the level of helpfulness & banter seems better over here.
So: I was an old school traddie in the 80s & 90s climbing steadily around HVS/E1, the occasional E2 on a good day. Had a long sabbatical from climbing due to family, emigration etc. Started again a few years ago together with my son, who is now 13 and mainly interested in indoor bouldering. These days I mostly sport climb; have redpointed a handful of 7a's and one blatantly soft 7a+. I'm 56 years old and aspire to redpoint an 8a before I hit 60.
I'm a British expat living in Bavaria. The Frankenjura is by far my favourite among the local areas, so shortish, powerful, not terribly intellectually demanding tends to be the name of the game.
Short Term Goal (April): moonboard "benchmark" 6B+; weight down from 84 to 82kg.
Medium Term Goal (2017): redpoint 7b
Long Term Goal (before 60): redpoint 8a
M: 40 minutes mobility & shoulder presses
T: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Short & desultory session, both of us tired & I wasn't feeling fully recovered from the weekend. Did a few max hangs at home afterwards in order to feel that I'd at least made some effort.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Aerocap mileage - a dozen routes in the 5c to 6a+ range. Pleasant relaxed session.
T: Bike to work one hour
F: Moonboard. Did all the moves on Wuthering Heights; touched but couldn't hold the finish on my best attempt. Soon.
S: Watched Shauna cruise to glory in Meiringen, then allowed near-success yesterday to seduce me into trying a second consecutive day on the moonboard with predictable results. No tick.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt with my son. Warmed up on slabby balance problems, because they were the only realistic option in the circumstances, and because I have neglected them in training lately so that they have become a weakness. Then a dozen aerocap-ish circuits in the 5c to 6b+ range.
Glorious sunny weekend spent at home / at the wall due to family commitments at the beginning of the Easter school holidays. Never mind; I have the next two weekends free.
4
In reply to Ally Smith:
?!??!?
That's less than a kilo less assistance than me! What am i missing (either in terms of a lack of comparability between the tests or in my climbimg!)? It's not an actual lattice edge is it, but what else...
> 7.5/8kg L/R 4-finger drag (~90% = 8a+ strength? i.e. super weak for the 8b+ I managed earlier in the year
?!??!?
That's less than a kilo less assistance than me! What am i missing (either in terms of a lack of comparability between the tests or in my climbimg!)? It's not an actual lattice edge is it, but what else...
1
In reply to AlanLittle:
Is there such a thing as a benchmark Monboard 6B+. Unfortunately the one I used to go on has closed but in my experience 6B+ seemed to range from ok to blatant show boating/sandbagging. I have 88 Moonboard 6B+ Problems in 5 categorised lists, I can see if I can extract them for you if you want (won't be this week though)?
Is there such a thing as a benchmark Monboard 6B+. Unfortunately the one I used to go on has closed but in my experience 6B+ seemed to range from ok to blatant show boating/sandbagging. I have 88 Moonboard 6B+ Problems in 5 categorised lists, I can see if I can extract them for you if you want (won't be this week though)?
In reply to Tyler:
"6B+" certainly seems to be the HVS of moonboarding: some of the ones in the database look a good three or four grades harder than obvious soft touches I've managed so far.
To counter this Ben has indeed introduced the concept of "benchmark" problems at each grade, one of which is my current project. A graded list would be great though.
"6B+" certainly seems to be the HVS of moonboarding: some of the ones in the database look a good three or four grades harder than obvious soft touches I've managed so far.
To counter this Ben has indeed introduced the concept of "benchmark" problems at each grade, one of which is my current project. A graded list would be great though.
1
In reply to guy127917:
M: Third day on failed on my initial target of OS a 7a+ (got it next go) but then managed to OS a 7b when I'd mentally decided to call it day. Very pleased as I climbed well and tried hard, I thought I'd cracked it..........
T: Rest, went for a massage and asked him to focus on my bad shoulders.
W: Didn't feel at all rested (are you meant to after a sport massage?), failed to OS a 7a+ (got it second go a pattern was established!) and then failed to get up a grim 7a in two goes.
T: Still felt battered, went to a shady crag but it was damp and cold. Fought my way to tickle the clipping jug on a 7a but pinged off. Decided to call it a day.
F: Rest
S: Over to Telendos where it was windy (cold), gutted to fall off the onsight of a 7b due to stupidity, a low point. Took my anger out on the 7a+ next door which I got up OS but took a fair amount of effort, also flashed a 7a.
S: last day, time to go big or go home, ended on a whimper, another near miss on a 7b OS (got it next go, natch) and a near miss on a 7a+ (too knackered/hot) for another go.
Overall I was pleased to meet my revised goal of OS a 7b but it should have been more and I wasn't consistent on 7a+. I climbed ok though and managed not to annoy my belayer too much who has told me to credit her with being a good belayer, which she was! Food was excellent, I wonder how much weight I've put on. Looking forward to the start of the Yorks lime season on Friday, better check the forecast.....
> how did the sunburn progress as the trip went on?
It was quite windy most afternoons so time spent frying on the balcony was limited so it's not a bad tanM: Third day on failed on my initial target of OS a 7a+ (got it next go) but then managed to OS a 7b when I'd mentally decided to call it day. Very pleased as I climbed well and tried hard, I thought I'd cracked it..........
T: Rest, went for a massage and asked him to focus on my bad shoulders.
W: Didn't feel at all rested (are you meant to after a sport massage?), failed to OS a 7a+ (got it second go a pattern was established!) and then failed to get up a grim 7a in two goes.
T: Still felt battered, went to a shady crag but it was damp and cold. Fought my way to tickle the clipping jug on a 7a but pinged off. Decided to call it a day.
F: Rest
S: Over to Telendos where it was windy (cold), gutted to fall off the onsight of a 7b due to stupidity, a low point. Took my anger out on the 7a+ next door which I got up OS but took a fair amount of effort, also flashed a 7a.
S: last day, time to go big or go home, ended on a whimper, another near miss on a 7b OS (got it next go, natch) and a near miss on a 7a+ (too knackered/hot) for another go.
Overall I was pleased to meet my revised goal of OS a 7b but it should have been more and I wasn't consistent on 7a+. I climbed ok though and managed not to annoy my belayer too much who has told me to credit her with being a good belayer, which she was! Food was excellent, I wonder how much weight I've put on. Looking forward to the start of the Yorks lime season on Friday, better check the forecast.....
6
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks to both of you!
Just confirmed the dates today Flying out end of May and back late June. Hoping to do some peaks in the Sutai, Tsambargarav and Altai Tavn Bogd area.
Managed to keep the streak going, but not a lot of distance this week as it was difficult to find the time due to other commitments.
m - 4.5k running, 2 hrs gym - stretches, drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - 5k run
w - 5k run
t - 4k run including some hill reps
f - 5k run
s - 10k running, including Bradford parkrun 24:44 - first time under 25 mins this year
s - 7.5k off road run
STG - Get around the Three Peaks fell race within the cut off times.
MTG - Get fit for Mongolia.
> Thanks Just Tintin for getting the post up.
Thanks to both of you!
> hokkyo: Great to see you are back into it with 7/7! Tell us a little about your MTG…
Just confirmed the dates today Flying out end of May and back late June. Hoping to do some peaks in the Sutai, Tsambargarav and Altai Tavn Bogd area.
Managed to keep the streak going, but not a lot of distance this week as it was difficult to find the time due to other commitments.
m - 4.5k running, 2 hrs gym - stretches, drills, plyo, core & circuits
t - 5k run
w - 5k run
t - 4k run including some hill reps
f - 5k run
s - 10k running, including Bradford parkrun 24:44 - first time under 25 mins this year
s - 7.5k off road run
STG - Get around the Three Peaks fell race within the cut off times.
MTG - Get fit for Mongolia.
In reply to Tyler:
Sounds like you did alright in the end Tyler - though sports massage can make you feel strong or weak depending on the techniques employed - sounds like you had a pummeling and were made weaker? (Can be good for sorting out imbalances though)
Malham or the mighty K? Could be keen for the latter if it stays dry for the rest of the week
Sounds like you did alright in the end Tyler - though sports massage can make you feel strong or weak depending on the techniques employed - sounds like you had a pummeling and were made weaker? (Can be good for sorting out imbalances though)
> Looking forward to the start of the Yorks lime season on Friday, better check the forecast.....
Malham or the mighty K? Could be keen for the latter if it stays dry for the rest of the week
In reply to AJM:
There's something weird about the Lattice test edge - I just can't get comfy on it with my finger geometry.
In the default drag position, I can't get much out of my pinky, which has a habit of rolling off, resultig in the poor result. In the opposite direction, if I can pinch the end of the test edge, or even better, get my thumb fully involved, the scores soar.
N.B. On the BM2K lower pocket, the pinky hooks on really strongly and gives me loads extra force.
There's something weird about the Lattice test edge - I just can't get comfy on it with my finger geometry.
In the default drag position, I can't get much out of my pinky, which has a habit of rolling off, resultig in the poor result. In the opposite direction, if I can pinch the end of the test edge, or even better, get my thumb fully involved, the scores soar.
N.B. On the BM2K lower pocket, the pinky hooks on really strongly and gives me loads extra force.
Post edited at 15:51
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy.
I didn't get back to it as I broke my van. This meant the planned two days in N Wales ended up being a one day hit to LPT in my mum's car! I was very tired at the beginning of the week, but I think that was due to having climbed 5 days out of seven the previous week following months of relative inactivity. I had a day at upper/lower Pen Trywn on the Monday, a quick session at the wall on Wed and then back to Wales on Friday. The Monday session was not great. One warm up route on LPT followed by a hastily finished off 6b+ as the tide came in, quickly. We got that one wrong! Went to Upper and faffed about on a 6c and a 7a. Didn't feel brave, co-ordinated or any of the things you need to climb well. Friday was much better. Read the tide timetables correctly and warmed up on the upper 6c this time It felt like a 6c too. Not pumped at all. Headed down to LPT and had a look at Nightglue. What a cracking route. Still a bit wet at the bottom but a really good route. Did all the moves while clipping up it but then on second go I fluffed the bottom up and wasted too much energy for the crux. 3rd go the bottom was soaked again and all the holds were wet. I tried a few times to get up but had to resort to boinging. Got the rest of it with refined beta for the crux. Totally knackered by then so off into town for fish and chips.
Totally loving being back climbing. Kind of enjoying climbing with no fixed goals, though it feels weird. Need to get back to LPT asap and also Gogarth. Kids on Easter hols now so unlikely to climb this week but then back to it in the push up to Summer hols at end of May. Can't wait.
Cheers Guy.
I didn't get back to it as I broke my van. This meant the planned two days in N Wales ended up being a one day hit to LPT in my mum's car! I was very tired at the beginning of the week, but I think that was due to having climbed 5 days out of seven the previous week following months of relative inactivity. I had a day at upper/lower Pen Trywn on the Monday, a quick session at the wall on Wed and then back to Wales on Friday. The Monday session was not great. One warm up route on LPT followed by a hastily finished off 6b+ as the tide came in, quickly. We got that one wrong! Went to Upper and faffed about on a 6c and a 7a. Didn't feel brave, co-ordinated or any of the things you need to climb well. Friday was much better. Read the tide timetables correctly and warmed up on the upper 6c this time It felt like a 6c too. Not pumped at all. Headed down to LPT and had a look at Nightglue. What a cracking route. Still a bit wet at the bottom but a really good route. Did all the moves while clipping up it but then on second go I fluffed the bottom up and wasted too much energy for the crux. 3rd go the bottom was soaked again and all the holds were wet. I tried a few times to get up but had to resort to boinging. Got the rest of it with refined beta for the crux. Totally knackered by then so off into town for fish and chips.
Totally loving being back climbing. Kind of enjoying climbing with no fixed goals, though it feels weird. Need to get back to LPT asap and also Gogarth. Kids on Easter hols now so unlikely to climb this week but then back to it in the push up to Summer hols at end of May. Can't wait.
1
In reply to Ally Smith:
> Malham or the mighty K? Could be keen for the latter if it stays dry for the rest of the week
I have more to do at Malham and with the wind from the East and only 8 degrees might be a bit chilly at Kilnsey? Nothing arranged so thoughIn reply to guy127917:
Hi Guy, missed out last week so two in one go from me! Psyched now I've seen some improvement in my climbing on trad (see below) and have booked a mini-break running around Interlaken in May, thanks to the "explore" feature on the Kayak website.
M:
Bike, 53.1km, 963m hill
Uni club running session (rare I go to these!) - hill reps. 8.1km, 67m
Tu:
Yoga
Quick blast on the bike (4.7km, flat) to check out my new wheels
W:
Yoga
Run 12.5km, 158m
Th:
Yoga
Max hang fingerboard: 10 sec crimp (bottom row beastmaker 1k) x 6; 3 finger pockets (top row) x 6, then 3x3 arm on the jug
General strength: 20x4 push ups; 12x4 shoulder press (6kg/side); 15x4 reverse fly (2kg/side); 30x4 Ab roller
F:
Bike 18km, 224m
Sat:
Yoga
Sun:
Skyrunning style day out in Ogwen. To much climbing to describe it as a run, to much running to describe it as a climbing day. Pinnacle Ridge, Amphitheatre Buttress and the North ridge of Tryfan (all solo) via the Carneddau and Cwm Idwal. 23.8km, 2108m ascent.
And now onto last week - little running but loads of cycling (for me) because of the new wheels. And some outside climbing, seeing some benefits of the winter's training. And ticked off an MTG...
M:
Yoga
TRX Strength: 12x4 Reverse butterfly; 12x4 wings (per side); 12x4 single arm row (per side); 12x4 Lat pull down (60kg)
Beastmaker app 6A, 4 reps 2 sets
Tu:
Yoga
Bike: 52.4km, 683m. Smashed a load of PRs on Strava
W:
Walk up Cadair 4.7km, 793m. What was meant to be a nice, peaceful evening sleeping in the hut with the GF was gatecrashed but a group from the local outdoor centre.
Th:
Walk back down Cadair, 4.7km.
F:
Bike: 31.2km, 404m. More PRs.
Sat:
Super sunny weekend climbing, went to Gogarth to make the most of it.. Went back to do The Moon after a bit of a mishap last year. Found scary and hard, took ages but got through it! Very pleased. Then Atlantis later in the day.
Sun:
Stayed in the Pass and did Ten Degrees North. Then a leisurely lunch and drive to ogwen to meet some other friends, so nipped up Cnefion Arete. All in all a good weekend!
Weight steady at around 71kg through, but feel far stronger than ever before so being heavier than last year isn't much problem so far.
STG (end of April)
Not going to Font anymore
18:30 Parkrun
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech
MTG (end of June)
-Top 25 in Cadair Idris Fell Race (May)
-E3 not in the slate quarries or on grit (open to suggestions in North Wales!, n.b I hate limestone) - TICK: The Moon, Gogarth
-Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
-Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
LTG (end of Sept)
-Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
-RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
-Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Aiming for a day of outdoor climbing this week, 40/50km ish running and a proper rest day where I just do a little yoga.
Hi Guy, missed out last week so two in one go from me! Psyched now I've seen some improvement in my climbing on trad (see below) and have booked a mini-break running around Interlaken in May, thanks to the "explore" feature on the Kayak website.
M:
Bike, 53.1km, 963m hill
Uni club running session (rare I go to these!) - hill reps. 8.1km, 67m
Tu:
Yoga
Quick blast on the bike (4.7km, flat) to check out my new wheels
W:
Yoga
Run 12.5km, 158m
Th:
Yoga
Max hang fingerboard: 10 sec crimp (bottom row beastmaker 1k) x 6; 3 finger pockets (top row) x 6, then 3x3 arm on the jug
General strength: 20x4 push ups; 12x4 shoulder press (6kg/side); 15x4 reverse fly (2kg/side); 30x4 Ab roller
F:
Bike 18km, 224m
Sat:
Yoga
Sun:
Skyrunning style day out in Ogwen. To much climbing to describe it as a run, to much running to describe it as a climbing day. Pinnacle Ridge, Amphitheatre Buttress and the North ridge of Tryfan (all solo) via the Carneddau and Cwm Idwal. 23.8km, 2108m ascent.
And now onto last week - little running but loads of cycling (for me) because of the new wheels. And some outside climbing, seeing some benefits of the winter's training. And ticked off an MTG...
M:
Yoga
TRX Strength: 12x4 Reverse butterfly; 12x4 wings (per side); 12x4 single arm row (per side); 12x4 Lat pull down (60kg)
Beastmaker app 6A, 4 reps 2 sets
Tu:
Yoga
Bike: 52.4km, 683m. Smashed a load of PRs on Strava
W:
Walk up Cadair 4.7km, 793m. What was meant to be a nice, peaceful evening sleeping in the hut with the GF was gatecrashed but a group from the local outdoor centre.
Th:
Walk back down Cadair, 4.7km.
F:
Bike: 31.2km, 404m. More PRs.
Sat:
Super sunny weekend climbing, went to Gogarth to make the most of it.. Went back to do The Moon after a bit of a mishap last year. Found scary and hard, took ages but got through it! Very pleased. Then Atlantis later in the day.
Sun:
Stayed in the Pass and did Ten Degrees North. Then a leisurely lunch and drive to ogwen to meet some other friends, so nipped up Cnefion Arete. All in all a good weekend!
Weight steady at around 71kg through, but feel far stronger than ever before so being heavier than last year isn't much problem so far.
STG (end of April)
Not going to Font anymore
18:30 Parkrun
Johnny's Wall (7A) at the Cromlech
MTG (end of June)
-Top 25 in Cadair Idris Fell Race (May)
-E3 not in the slate quarries or on grit (open to suggestions in North Wales!, n.b I hate limestone) - TICK: The Moon, Gogarth
-Another E5/7a/+ in the quarries (possibly 1000 Tons of Chicken Shit (E5 6a), Waves of Inspiration (E5 6a) or Never Never Land (E5 6a))
-Get over limestone hate and do a ~6c at the Orme
LTG (end of Sept)
-Walker Spur in August (conditions dependent...)
-RP Beltane (7b+) in Bus Stop Quarry
-Top 100 and under 11 hours in the Glencoe Skyline (102nd and 11:20 last year)
Aiming for a day of outdoor climbing this week, 40/50km ish running and a proper rest day where I just do a little yoga.
2
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers Guy- I have soloed many of the Burbage VS's before, so not quite so impressive but I use them as an annual tester of both my finger strength and mental strength- I have bottled them before, but thankfully not this time, so hopefully build-up is working ok.
M- Climbing Works- 7 yellow (including 4 I had previously failed on), 5 pickles and 7 iron bru. Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 10, 10 to 1)
T- worked late- 70 press ups.
W- lunch- 10 x 100m interval session- ow. 50 press ups.
T- 20 mile cycle commute.
F- nowt- train to Gatwick hotel- off skiing tomorrow with the family.
Sat- travelling all day-train, plane and automobile.
Sun- Les Deux Alpes- skied for 5 hours; 70 press ups; 45 min run in the PM- strangely enough, up a huge hill (4.5 miles, 1000ft elevation)- Ow.
Goals:
- Consolidate at HVS
- Lead E1
Cheers Guy- I have soloed many of the Burbage VS's before, so not quite so impressive but I use them as an annual tester of both my finger strength and mental strength- I have bottled them before, but thankfully not this time, so hopefully build-up is working ok.
M- Climbing Works- 7 yellow (including 4 I had previously failed on), 5 pickles and 7 iron bru. Campus board on big rungs to kill off- 3 x ladders (alternate- 1 to 10, 10 to 1)
T- worked late- 70 press ups.
W- lunch- 10 x 100m interval session- ow. 50 press ups.
T- 20 mile cycle commute.
F- nowt- train to Gatwick hotel- off skiing tomorrow with the family.
Sat- travelling all day-train, plane and automobile.
Sun- Les Deux Alpes- skied for 5 hours; 70 press ups; 45 min run in the PM- strangely enough, up a huge hill (4.5 miles, 1000ft elevation)- Ow.
Goals:
- Consolidate at HVS
- Lead E1
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks for doing the stats guy
Good suggestion on the front squats and pistol squats. It is good to have someone else perspective as I was just stuck being single minded. Will try them out this week
M - Rest
T - 2x45 sec front plank, 2x45 sec side plank with weights. 3x10 strict sit ups with 10kg, 3x5 hanging leg raises. Was going to do a weight session but felt tired so called it a day.
W - 4x5 squats 60kg, 4x2 pull ups 8kg, 4x5 deadlifts 57kg, 4x5 box steps 30kg
T - Bouldering indoors - I think boulders have really under graded there bouldering circuit as I onsited all the v0 - v2 circuits and then onsited 3 of the v2 - v4 and on the last 2 just took 3 attempts to complete. 12km run
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Went to wintours and forgot my chalk bag. It made the climbs feel a lot harder. Climbed Freedom, African killer bee, Butterfly and Zelda
Happy Training
Lee
Thanks for doing the stats guy
Good suggestion on the front squats and pistol squats. It is good to have someone else perspective as I was just stuck being single minded. Will try them out this week
M - Rest
T - 2x45 sec front plank, 2x45 sec side plank with weights. 3x10 strict sit ups with 10kg, 3x5 hanging leg raises. Was going to do a weight session but felt tired so called it a day.
W - 4x5 squats 60kg, 4x2 pull ups 8kg, 4x5 deadlifts 57kg, 4x5 box steps 30kg
T - Bouldering indoors - I think boulders have really under graded there bouldering circuit as I onsited all the v0 - v2 circuits and then onsited 3 of the v2 - v4 and on the last 2 just took 3 attempts to complete. 12km run
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Went to wintours and forgot my chalk bag. It made the climbs feel a lot harder. Climbed Freedom, African killer bee, Butterfly and Zelda
Happy Training
Lee
1
In reply to Just Tintin:
Right i cant hold on to this for another two weeks, the rematch with Doctor Feelgood went rather well today...
Right i cant hold on to this for another two weeks, the rematch with Doctor Feelgood went rather well today...
3
2
In reply to AlanLittle:
Welcome welcome!
Not this year, but I do hope to get back to FJ at some point for more beer and a rematch with powerful pockets and Hitchhike the Plane (7c+).
Do you have projects in mind for the year?
Welcome welcome!
Not this year, but I do hope to get back to FJ at some point for more beer and a rematch with powerful pockets and Hitchhike the Plane (7c+).
Do you have projects in mind for the year?
In reply to AJM:
Thanks.
Bit vague on the projects to be honest. I have a 7a+ in the 'jura that I've been on a few times that should hopefully go soon - has to, actually, since it's south facing and basically hopeless in the summer. Another 7b that a mate has been on & enthused about, but so far I've only walked past underneath it on a rest day. Looks good.
And one in the Allgäu that I did have my eye on, bouldery looking little thing - but last weekend another mate who is a stronger boulderer than I am tried it & got completely shut down. Going to try it anyway though.
Thanks.
Bit vague on the projects to be honest. I have a 7a+ in the 'jura that I've been on a few times that should hopefully go soon - has to, actually, since it's south facing and basically hopeless in the summer. Another 7b that a mate has been on & enthused about, but so far I've only walked past underneath it on a rest day. Looks good.
And one in the Allgäu that I did have my eye on, bouldery looking little thing - but last weekend another mate who is a stronger boulderer than I am tried it & got completely shut down. Going to try it anyway though.
In reply to Dandan:
Nice one- mentioned on top ascents: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=661977
Nice one- mentioned on top ascents: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=661977
2
In reply to Dandan:
Congratulations - time to pick an 8a+ project, or consolidate some more 8a ticks?
> Right i cant hold on to this for another two weeks, the rematch with Doctor Feelgood went rather well today...
Congratulations - time to pick an 8a+ project, or consolidate some more 8a ticks?
1
In reply to guy127917:
Cool - I'm tempted to say getting a slot in each of the 3 categories in a single week would be a great "all-rounder" goal.
E5, 8a, 8A seem to be the thresholds
> Nice one- mentioned on top ascents: https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=661977
Cool - I'm tempted to say getting a slot in each of the 3 categories in a single week would be a great "all-rounder" goal.
E5, 8a, 8A seem to be the thresholds
3
In reply to AlanLittle:
Hi Alan, welcome, be interesting to see how you/we progress-similar ages and starting points though my goals are slightly less ambitious, 7a onsights and 7b by autumn and 7b+ next spring-also building a base for the next ten years before its too late. Have got a sneaky local route that is tad harder if things are working out though.
Good luck with it all.
Rich
Hi Alan, welcome, be interesting to see how you/we progress-similar ages and starting points though my goals are slightly less ambitious, 7a onsights and 7b by autumn and 7b+ next spring-also building a base for the next ten years before its too late. Have got a sneaky local route that is tad harder if things are working out though.
Good luck with it all.
Rich
1
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Good call, I hadn't thought of that. Shall look into it.
Bit poor this week as I've had a cold all week. But made up for it on Saturday.
M - Wall. Route session. Up to 6b+ O/S warm ups. Did the 6c+ from last session first go. Got on a 7a+ and dogged my way up to the top.
T - Ill
W - Ill
T - Ill
F - Rest
S - Pen Trwyn. Went to have a look at Quicksilver 7a. Bolt to bolt, managed all but the upper crux first go. So a couple of top rope attempts to try and figure out that bit. Struggling until I found another hold, which was right in front of my face and even had a tick mark on it, so how I missed it, I don’t know... So 20 mins rest, and got the RP. So happy to get a 7a in maybe 3 hours or so.
S - Yesterday’s efforts seemed to bring my cold back on again, so just did some work in the garden.
> Spengler: You can get weights *really* cheaply on gumtree or whatever because so many people buy them and never use them (but also don’t be that guy!)
Thanks Guy. Good call, I hadn't thought of that. Shall look into it.
Bit poor this week as I've had a cold all week. But made up for it on Saturday.
M - Wall. Route session. Up to 6b+ O/S warm ups. Did the 6c+ from last session first go. Got on a 7a+ and dogged my way up to the top.
T - Ill
W - Ill
T - Ill
F - Rest
S - Pen Trwyn. Went to have a look at Quicksilver 7a. Bolt to bolt, managed all but the upper crux first go. So a couple of top rope attempts to try and figure out that bit. Struggling until I found another hold, which was right in front of my face and even had a tick mark on it, so how I missed it, I don’t know... So 20 mins rest, and got the RP. So happy to get a 7a in maybe 3 hours or so.
S - Yesterday’s efforts seemed to bring my cold back on again, so just did some work in the garden.
2
In reply to Jen Jones:
I don't know how you do your falls practice, but my wife and I tried the 'fall game' method for the first time yesterday. She really liked it as she could just climb without having to think 'I need to fall off in a minute/after this move/etc'. I found that it was good for me, in that it got me falling off without readying myself for it, if you know what I mean.
We saw it on a youtube video a couple of weeks ago, but basically the belayer just shouts fall at random points and the climber just instantly lets go. It helps to have a belayer who knows what your comfort level is, so they can push you a little, but not too much in one go. And also, I'd recommend varying the fall distance, so you're not just getting higher each time etc.
I don't know how you do your falls practice, but my wife and I tried the 'fall game' method for the first time yesterday. She really liked it as she could just climb without having to think 'I need to fall off in a minute/after this move/etc'. I found that it was good for me, in that it got me falling off without readying myself for it, if you know what I mean.
We saw it on a youtube video a couple of weeks ago, but basically the belayer just shouts fall at random points and the climber just instantly lets go. It helps to have a belayer who knows what your comfort level is, so they can push you a little, but not too much in one go. And also, I'd recommend varying the fall distance, so you're not just getting higher each time etc.
In reply to guy127917: Cheers Guy, no finger is grumbling but has settled down a bit. Not as bad as it might have been, swollen knuckle, no pulleys or strains, phew. Last week was a bit shit though just looking at my notes not as bad as I thought. Trapped at home for whole weekend with no car, no trains and feeling knackered. Good news about treatment just finished, looks like it has worked and am free of a nasty bug I have ha for 30+years, get definitve answer in six months but all looking good. Feeling knackered but got off from Friday for over a week, got half a week in Cornwall, be good to get some topos for any bouldering on North coast near Trebarwith Strand/Tintagel. There is one problem on logbooks but it is high ball 6C+ over rock platform?!?
So scores on the doors are
M-Very long day at work
T-TCA taped finger and 10 sec hangs on small lattice to 6kg
Ancap stylee problem on Woody-12 moves, 5 goes. Crap first couple of goes but then hung on and ticked forth go, screw on for feet lower down but anything higher up, last go came off move eight just using screw ons. Pleased.
W-Shoulder rehab and strength
T-4 finger crimp repeaters with up to 6kgs, 3 finger open up to 3kg. 4 sets of 5 weighted pull ups upto 4kg, big weak spot for me.
Friday, meant to be 'burl' bouldering session, this was my (hopefully) one crap session in ten. Tired, distracted, ticked a few of the new 6A-6C problems at TCA but just could not get going.
S-glorious weather but chilled, longer yoga and shoulder session-tired and in need of a break.
S-Ditto-felt chilled, finished sawing/splitting 2 tons of firewood with new toy, a chainsaw, satisfying.
Rich
So scores on the doors are
M-Very long day at work
T-TCA taped finger and 10 sec hangs on small lattice to 6kg
Ancap stylee problem on Woody-12 moves, 5 goes. Crap first couple of goes but then hung on and ticked forth go, screw on for feet lower down but anything higher up, last go came off move eight just using screw ons. Pleased.
W-Shoulder rehab and strength
T-4 finger crimp repeaters with up to 6kgs, 3 finger open up to 3kg. 4 sets of 5 weighted pull ups upto 4kg, big weak spot for me.
Friday, meant to be 'burl' bouldering session, this was my (hopefully) one crap session in ten. Tired, distracted, ticked a few of the new 6A-6C problems at TCA but just could not get going.
S-glorious weather but chilled, longer yoga and shoulder session-tired and in need of a break.
S-Ditto-felt chilled, finished sawing/splitting 2 tons of firewood with new toy, a chainsaw, satisfying.
Rich
1
In reply to Solsbury:
There's some stuff at/near pentire isn't there, and i think some of it is sensibly graded? Worth a look at boulder Britain as that's probably my source...
There's some stuff at/near pentire isn't there, and i think some of it is sensibly graded? Worth a look at boulder Britain as that's probably my source...
In reply to Tyler: Hi, I would be interested to see these lists if possible, have ticked a few soft touch 6B+'s and almost a few 6C's others as you say are just so not going to happen.
Rich
Rich
In reply to guy127917:
Thanks Guy. Goals and training plan ... er...well at least I've put a good week in?
Some other things I did in the last few weeks but didn't note:
* Climbed some limestone HVS and E1s for photopgraphy for new guidebook
* Second in senior female in WBL Wirksworth
* Second in senior female in last round of WBL Climbing Unit
M - routes
T - rest
W - 1on2off/conditioning
T -rest (give blood!)
F - routes/core
S- sport at Navigation with MattRM (thanks for showing it to us!), who has great taste in projects. WFD is stunning! Two falls on onsight lead attempt at roof and at crux, but have cracked all the moves and need to return fresh to lace them together. 1-2 sessions needed maybe as long as I'm in good shape. Loving the moves. This is my first ever redpoint project so good to be inspired to start working something as previously I've just picked crimpy 7as that I can definitely onsight! Really good day. Camped at random campsite in Ben's new tipi.
S - Tired after not quite getting my thermoregulation right overnight and then a very hot day. Sport at Gilwern East to 6c onsight then repaired to a hilltop pool for a mr whippy and a wild swim. Great weekend.
Thanks Guy. Goals and training plan ... er...well at least I've put a good week in?
Some other things I did in the last few weeks but didn't note:
* Climbed some limestone HVS and E1s for photopgraphy for new guidebook
* Second in senior female in WBL Wirksworth
* Second in senior female in last round of WBL Climbing Unit
M - routes
T - rest
W - 1on2off/conditioning
T -rest (give blood!)
F - routes/core
S- sport at Navigation with MattRM (thanks for showing it to us!), who has great taste in projects. WFD is stunning! Two falls on onsight lead attempt at roof and at crux, but have cracked all the moves and need to return fresh to lace them together. 1-2 sessions needed maybe as long as I'm in good shape. Loving the moves. This is my first ever redpoint project so good to be inspired to start working something as previously I've just picked crimpy 7as that I can definitely onsight! Really good day. Camped at random campsite in Ben's new tipi.
S - Tired after not quite getting my thermoregulation right overnight and then a very hot day. Sport at Gilwern East to 6c onsight then repaired to a hilltop pool for a mr whippy and a wild swim. Great weekend.
2
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, will have a look,never really looked in Boulder Britain, never been a boulderer, till now.
Rich
Cheers Andy, will have a look,never really looked in Boulder Britain, never been a boulderer, till now.
Rich
Post edited at 12:46
In reply to Jen Jones: Hi Jen, I have generally refrained from giving feedback in Fit Club, mainly because I don't feel qualified but am wiling to make some observations here. Mainly because I know two people who have done extensive fall practice to little avail and another person who in theory should climb far harder than me but does not actually tick that much, in part, because unwilling to take the fall but also because of my own experiences.
Over the past x years (too many) I have gone from an old traddy who sketched up the odd 6a to someone who has got 15+7a's, 3 7a+'s and some spicy European 6c's, think 6 bolts in 30 metres in the last two years. Each grade increment has been a battle and I clip sticked and top roped myself into cul de sacs at various times. Each grade increment has also increased my confidence both about climbing and falling. I don't think any step up was done as an on sight and would say little, if any, of this progress has been down to getting fitter, just climbing more and getting through the (my) mental side.
What I needed to improve was clinging on and heading upwards not falling off, i did this by-
Not taking a clip stick up with me and avoiding top roping as quick as possible
Making the step ups achievable-not huge grade jumps
If there is someone around (unless you are very much equal-in which case always lead!) let them put the clips in.
Always start with first bolt clipped
Watch how much 'good' climbers trust their gear-its impressive and at times scary
As you say look at route first, plan etc. Visualise route during normal day-though I normally miss about half the route out until I have done it.
I really improved when having fluffed a move on the redpoint (bit grand for me-attempt) I carried on anyway.
Try and avoid taking, except when getting clips in/working moves in which case take on almost every bolt even when you don't think you need to.
Try and fail going upwards
Don't do routes you don't want to (debatable)
I regularly ignore all the above probably and do have days where everything goes to shit but some of this might mix in with what you are already doing. I can vividly remember a particularly spectacular whipper of the crux of Pirates of Lamb Leer at Cheddar but I also remember making one more foot move on the same route and getting the reasonable pocket ( Outside many 7a's do have great holds quite often) at the end of the crux sequence. Sweet.
Hope this does not sound pompous, all the best
Rich
Over the past x years (too many) I have gone from an old traddy who sketched up the odd 6a to someone who has got 15+7a's, 3 7a+'s and some spicy European 6c's, think 6 bolts in 30 metres in the last two years. Each grade increment has been a battle and I clip sticked and top roped myself into cul de sacs at various times. Each grade increment has also increased my confidence both about climbing and falling. I don't think any step up was done as an on sight and would say little, if any, of this progress has been down to getting fitter, just climbing more and getting through the (my) mental side.
What I needed to improve was clinging on and heading upwards not falling off, i did this by-
Not taking a clip stick up with me and avoiding top roping as quick as possible
Making the step ups achievable-not huge grade jumps
If there is someone around (unless you are very much equal-in which case always lead!) let them put the clips in.
Always start with first bolt clipped
Watch how much 'good' climbers trust their gear-its impressive and at times scary
As you say look at route first, plan etc. Visualise route during normal day-though I normally miss about half the route out until I have done it.
I really improved when having fluffed a move on the redpoint (bit grand for me-attempt) I carried on anyway.
Try and avoid taking, except when getting clips in/working moves in which case take on almost every bolt even when you don't think you need to.
Try and fail going upwards
Don't do routes you don't want to (debatable)
I regularly ignore all the above probably and do have days where everything goes to shit but some of this might mix in with what you are already doing. I can vividly remember a particularly spectacular whipper of the crux of Pirates of Lamb Leer at Cheddar but I also remember making one more foot move on the same route and getting the reasonable pocket ( Outside many 7a's do have great holds quite often) at the end of the crux sequence. Sweet.
Hope this does not sound pompous, all the best
Rich
3
In reply to Just Tintin:
despondent. Psyche running even lower than my usual low level.
M - cycle commute. yoga.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes, 16 in pairs inc many in the 7as (not many tops but that wasn't the point)
W - cycle commute. FB warmup then 8/3/6/4 at +10, twice more at +7.5
T - cycle commute. UCR routes with psychocoach, 14 in blocks.
F - nothing
S,S - zero progress on Fighting Torque. In fact I think it went backwards.
left with overwhelming sense that I'm kidding myself. Gloom.
despondent. Psyche running even lower than my usual low level.
M - cycle commute. yoga.
T - cycle commute. UCR routes, 16 in pairs inc many in the 7as (not many tops but that wasn't the point)
W - cycle commute. FB warmup then 8/3/6/4 at +10, twice more at +7.5
T - cycle commute. UCR routes with psychocoach, 14 in blocks.
F - nothing
S,S - zero progress on Fighting Torque. In fact I think it went backwards.
left with overwhelming sense that I'm kidding myself. Gloom.
1
2
In reply to hms:
You should have said you were down our way! Are you just trying to avoid us?!
Fwiw I wouldn't have expected much from FT in the weekends heat and sunshine. Don't take it too hard.
You should have said you were down our way! Are you just trying to avoid us?!
Fwiw I wouldn't have expected much from FT in the weekends heat and sunshine. Don't take it too hard.
1
In reply to Spengler:
Yeah, that is the next step for me. Putting my falls in the hands of others!
Initially, the practice is to get into a good climbing position and to focus on breathing and a spot on the wall and then fall. This helps to prepare for a situation on a climb when you start to worry about falling or bolt position etc. - learning to refocus and pay attention in a stressful situation. So far, it's been really good.
I will try varying my distance during the falls. Sometimes I do find it difficult to push myself so on these occasions I go right back to the bolt.
Yeah, that is the next step for me. Putting my falls in the hands of others!
Initially, the practice is to get into a good climbing position and to focus on breathing and a spot on the wall and then fall. This helps to prepare for a situation on a climb when you start to worry about falling or bolt position etc. - learning to refocus and pay attention in a stressful situation. So far, it's been really good.
I will try varying my distance during the falls. Sometimes I do find it difficult to push myself so on these occasions I go right back to the bolt.
1
In reply to Solsbury:
I find it very situation specific. I do some generic jumping-off-the-climbing-wall, although perhaps not as much as I could/should. But what I find really helps is situation specific practice. I had a 7a project where I was having a major mental problem right after the technical crux, so one afternoon I chucked myself off from that spot half a dozen times. Redpointed the route fairly easily the following weekend. And in general I'm much more relaxed on a project after I've fallen off it once or twice.
Talkig about safely bolted sport routes here obviously.
> I know two people who have done extensive fall practice to little avail
I find it very situation specific. I do some generic jumping-off-the-climbing-wall, although perhaps not as much as I could/should. But what I find really helps is situation specific practice. I had a 7a project where I was having a major mental problem right after the technical crux, so one afternoon I chucked myself off from that spot half a dozen times. Redpointed the route fairly easily the following weekend. And in general I'm much more relaxed on a project after I've fallen off it once or twice.
Talkig about safely bolted sport routes here obviously.
1
In reply to AJM:
sorry, should have mentioned it. Although I had already seen from facebook that your were off to a barbecue or something on the Sunday....
sorry, should have mentioned it. Although I had already seen from facebook that your were off to a barbecue or something on the Sunday....
In reply to hms:
Walking and Jerk Shack at the Scott Arms in Kingston (near Swanage). We had some flexibility of plans though.
Walking and Jerk Shack at the Scott Arms in Kingston (near Swanage). We had some flexibility of plans though.
In reply to guy127917:
I did my first outdoor rock climbing this week. Learned to rethread and lower and climbed some easy stuff. Warming up for my trad climbing course in a month.
Climbed an n3 a couple of times to work on the lowering stuff. Then today I did an n3+, n4 and n4+ (about a 4b/4c I think).
I did my first outdoor rock climbing this week. Learned to rethread and lower and climbed some easy stuff. Warming up for my trad climbing course in a month.
Climbed an n3 a couple of times to work on the lowering stuff. Then today I did an n3+, n4 and n4+ (about a 4b/4c I think).
2
In reply to Solsbury:
Hey Rich, thanks for your message. Definitely not too pompous ;p
I guess there is a bit more to my falling practice than I have said on here. Until spring last year my confidence was gradually increasing, I was pushing my grades, playing around on trad etc. I've been climbing for a good few years but far more consistently in the last three years. The more I climbed and pushed it the more confident I became and when I was having a shit/nervy five minutes I would normally be able to just push through it. Then in May I had a bad trad fall, all my gear came out and I bounced down to the ledge where my belayer was and then carried on. I hurt my ankle and my confidence pretty badly. From this I have worked really hard to try to get my climbing confidence back but it was my whole attitude that was affected and since I have had some pretty dark climbing days. The practices that I am doing are for falling but also help to focus and change the way I feel about failure and success and my attitude to climbing. It seems I'm not even particularly scared of falling but it is in the process of training my mind that I am slowly building up a much better attitude and continuously working on all aspects of my climbing.
Previously unbeknownst to me, fall practice might not be as simple as just falling off. Apparently, after many many practice falls where people don't have time to think they can still find it hard to push themselves on routes. Initially, the time taken before falling off is very important because it helps to focus your mind and relax. This can then be applied to stressful situations on routes when you start to panic, stressing about falling, bolt position, gear placement etc, so you can calm yourself and focus on what you need to do. It all depends what it is that stops you on routes, whether that is just being terrified of falling or whether you have other issues to deal with.
I agree with your points about building confidence climbing and leading and I also (try to) do this whenever I climb although like you I am sure I don't always! Some days I am keen to get on everything that looks fun and challenging and other days I can find it a struggle. As you say working on routes, redpointing, struggling up etc. are all great ways to build confidence and get better.
Thanks again for your message, sometimes it is difficult to hear people's opinions but it is really helpful to get input from others.
Jen
Hey Rich, thanks for your message. Definitely not too pompous ;p
I guess there is a bit more to my falling practice than I have said on here. Until spring last year my confidence was gradually increasing, I was pushing my grades, playing around on trad etc. I've been climbing for a good few years but far more consistently in the last three years. The more I climbed and pushed it the more confident I became and when I was having a shit/nervy five minutes I would normally be able to just push through it. Then in May I had a bad trad fall, all my gear came out and I bounced down to the ledge where my belayer was and then carried on. I hurt my ankle and my confidence pretty badly. From this I have worked really hard to try to get my climbing confidence back but it was my whole attitude that was affected and since I have had some pretty dark climbing days. The practices that I am doing are for falling but also help to focus and change the way I feel about failure and success and my attitude to climbing. It seems I'm not even particularly scared of falling but it is in the process of training my mind that I am slowly building up a much better attitude and continuously working on all aspects of my climbing.
Previously unbeknownst to me, fall practice might not be as simple as just falling off. Apparently, after many many practice falls where people don't have time to think they can still find it hard to push themselves on routes. Initially, the time taken before falling off is very important because it helps to focus your mind and relax. This can then be applied to stressful situations on routes when you start to panic, stressing about falling, bolt position, gear placement etc, so you can calm yourself and focus on what you need to do. It all depends what it is that stops you on routes, whether that is just being terrified of falling or whether you have other issues to deal with.
I agree with your points about building confidence climbing and leading and I also (try to) do this whenever I climb although like you I am sure I don't always! Some days I am keen to get on everything that looks fun and challenging and other days I can find it a struggle. As you say working on routes, redpointing, struggling up etc. are all great ways to build confidence and get better.
Thanks again for your message, sometimes it is difficult to hear people's opinions but it is really helpful to get input from others.
Jen
2
In reply to Ally Smith:
Cheers all, I've already tried the moves on a really nice 8a+ which I've earmarked for October, the crux moves involve a small right hand crimp which my iffy finger doesn't like, so there's no point pushing it this holiday.
Heading back to Local Hero 8a tomorrow, my theory is that if i tick 3 8a's then i might be able to call myself an 8a climber...?
Also got an 8b recommendation that i am going to look at next week.
Cheers all, I've already tried the moves on a really nice 8a+ which I've earmarked for October, the crux moves involve a small right hand crimp which my iffy finger doesn't like, so there's no point pushing it this holiday.
Heading back to Local Hero 8a tomorrow, my theory is that if i tick 3 8a's then i might be able to call myself an 8a climber...?
Also got an 8b recommendation that i am going to look at next week.
In reply to guy127917:
Hmm, making a ticklist is a pretty good idea actually. I find specific routes loads more motivating than grades...
So, last week:
M: cycle 20km, yoga
T: cycle 20km but felt awful by the time I'd got home. Possibly because I'd not had a rest day in a good couple of weeks. I'm not so good at planning rest. Was supposed to do abs and fingerboard but sacked it all off after 5 mins and dedicated myself to recuperation on the sofa.
W: outdoor bouldering, surprised myself by actually getting up a handful of routes
Th: 25km cycle
F: outdoor climbing after work. Led an n6- and toproped a couple of n6s, but felt very nervy, couldn't relax at all.
Sa: start of our 10-day easter hol, a driving holiday in the south of Norway. Stopped off at a nice little crag called Valle on the way to Kristiansand and got a few routes done, mostly seconding but lead an easy trad route too. Since my partner climbs a couple of grades harder than me I never get to cruise easy routes, so I've realised I have to choose my own easy cruise routes!
Su: climbing at Kilefjorden. Seconded a few 6-s, got all geared up to lead a really easy route but the crux for me was getting up a thin slab to be able to place the first bit of gear at 4m... and I bottled it! Felt like an idiot. Spolier for next week: I climbed it on Monday with the aid of a bouldering mat
This week: holiday continues! My goal is to lead one challenging route a day, regardless of grade.
Hmm, making a ticklist is a pretty good idea actually. I find specific routes loads more motivating than grades...
So, last week:
M: cycle 20km, yoga
T: cycle 20km but felt awful by the time I'd got home. Possibly because I'd not had a rest day in a good couple of weeks. I'm not so good at planning rest. Was supposed to do abs and fingerboard but sacked it all off after 5 mins and dedicated myself to recuperation on the sofa.
W: outdoor bouldering, surprised myself by actually getting up a handful of routes
Th: 25km cycle
F: outdoor climbing after work. Led an n6- and toproped a couple of n6s, but felt very nervy, couldn't relax at all.
Sa: start of our 10-day easter hol, a driving holiday in the south of Norway. Stopped off at a nice little crag called Valle on the way to Kristiansand and got a few routes done, mostly seconding but lead an easy trad route too. Since my partner climbs a couple of grades harder than me I never get to cruise easy routes, so I've realised I have to choose my own easy cruise routes!
Su: climbing at Kilefjorden. Seconded a few 6-s, got all geared up to lead a really easy route but the crux for me was getting up a thin slab to be able to place the first bit of gear at 4m... and I bottled it! Felt like an idiot. Spolier for next week: I climbed it on Monday with the aid of a bouldering mat
This week: holiday continues! My goal is to lead one challenging route a day, regardless of grade.
In reply to hms:
I cant wait until Sunday to comment on give you a nudge after a post like that! Do you mean you are kidding yourself about FT or your larger goal?
I cant wait until Sunday to comment on give you a nudge after a post like that! Do you mean you are kidding yourself about FT or your larger goal?
In reply to Jen Jones: Hi Jen, i had not realised the back story, great your coming back and pushing your self.
I have taken little bits from lots of people, in the end i had to find my way of not thinking about falling, beyond normal safety considerations, and not seeing a fall as a failure no matter how frustrating. This has been no mean feat for someone bought up in the climbing world with the mantra, the leader shall not fall.
Helen and Alan's points are good and i am only really talking about sports routes.
It is, of course, not entirely sorted, not sure if these things ever are.
All the best
Rich
I have taken little bits from lots of people, in the end i had to find my way of not thinking about falling, beyond normal safety considerations, and not seeing a fall as a failure no matter how frustrating. This has been no mean feat for someone bought up in the climbing world with the mantra, the leader shall not fall.
Helen and Alan's points are good and i am only really talking about sports routes.
It is, of course, not entirely sorted, not sure if these things ever are.
All the best
Rich
In reply to guy127917:
Cheers, not so consistent last week!
Monday was a rest day after Sunday's long run, Tuesday just a swim. Wednesday was good, had a lunch swim 30km ride home and straight into a 30 minute core session.
Things then got de railed with the youngest being poorly so took the rest of the week off to look after her.
Got a nice 5 km run in on Sunday.
Off with the kids this week as its hols time. Got a run in Monday evening and off for another this evening. Off to the in laws tomorrow so will see how it goes but certainly no pool or bike sessions this week
Cheers, not so consistent last week!
Monday was a rest day after Sunday's long run, Tuesday just a swim. Wednesday was good, had a lunch swim 30km ride home and straight into a 30 minute core session.
Things then got de railed with the youngest being poorly so took the rest of the week off to look after her.
Got a nice 5 km run in on Sunday.
Off with the kids this week as its hols time. Got a run in Monday evening and off for another this evening. Off to the in laws tomorrow so will see how it goes but certainly no pool or bike sessions this week
In reply to Solsbury:
Thanks Rich. Yeah, it is such a personal thing. I have heard a few people brought up on trad finding it hard to fall on lead. It's definitely not such a good idea and must be pretty tough to break away from when moving onto sport.
Off to The Peak District this weekend to do some routes so looking forward to leading (and hopefully not falling) on some grit Hope you have a great Easter weekend JJ
Thanks Rich. Yeah, it is such a personal thing. I have heard a few people brought up on trad finding it hard to fall on lead. It's definitely not such a good idea and must be pretty tough to break away from when moving onto sport.
Off to The Peak District this weekend to do some routes so looking forward to leading (and hopefully not falling) on some grit Hope you have a great Easter weekend JJ
In reply to guy127917:
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Core workout
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - sport at Navigation
S - Rest
Had an excellent days climbing on Saturday with Tintin and Ben. It was really nice to get back there since getting ill and get some routes done. Managed to scrape up a 6a and 6b on toprope. WFD actually felt more possible in an odd kinda way, in so far as if I can get the weight off, cause I've been training heavy, I'm fairly strong and the long lay off means I've got no injury niggles. But mainly it was just nice to spend a day in the sun with some lovely people doing some climbing again. Really enjoyed it. Just got to turn the motivation in to weight loss and training.
The Goal - Climb Western Front Direct (7a)
Weight - 13st 10lbs
M - Rest
T - Core workout
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - sport at Navigation
S - Rest
Had an excellent days climbing on Saturday with Tintin and Ben. It was really nice to get back there since getting ill and get some routes done. Managed to scrape up a 6a and 6b on toprope. WFD actually felt more possible in an odd kinda way, in so far as if I can get the weight off, cause I've been training heavy, I'm fairly strong and the long lay off means I've got no injury niggles. But mainly it was just nice to spend a day in the sun with some lovely people doing some climbing again. Really enjoyed it. Just got to turn the motivation in to weight loss and training.
1
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