UKC

I've had a pair of the new Blancos for about a month now. Very pleased with initial fit, seemed very faithful to the originals. However now I'm getting a bit frustrated with the midsole showing no sign of molding to my feet at all. I'm ending up with bruised big toes, which is making climbing in other shoes the next day painful. Can't help thinking 5.10 have over-engineered the stiffness thing with the thermoplastic midsole.

Any other views on this?

In reply to Colin Scotchford:

Good to have some feedback. Given how quickly the toe piece deformed on the originals I would happily trade longevity for bruised toes. Maybe use them sparingly for routes requiring extreme edging?

In reply to Colin Scotchford:

I'm also glad to hear that edging performance is uncompromising. I'm much incentivised to buy a pair based on that - Pinks start off great but quickly go soft and so aren't ideal. I need something to help me on the Swabian limestone! Some of the old school routes here are absolutely brutal on the feet. And the hands. And the arms... O.O

In reply to MischaHY:

I bought a pair of blancos for exactly this reason! Now I've seen your post I feel thorough vindicated


In reply to Colin, I can't say I've noticed a problem with the toes - this may be because I've been distracted by the awful, shockingly bad heel.

In reply to Colin Scotchford:

Had a chance to trial them yesterday and wrote up on the FB page. Furter reviews welcome.

https://www.facebook.com/bringbacktheanasaziwhite/

So courtesy of the Foundry Climbing Shop (who have a large stock) I bought a pair of the new model Whites and have tried them out at Malham alongside my last pair of the old model which I've worn for 5 intense session on my long term project (Austrian Oak 8b) which features some terrible footholds.

I'm pleased to report that the new model whites performed slightly better than my old model one which may be slightly best past its best. This is a massive relief. I also thought the general fit was better, liked the laces and they felt a bit lighter. So some marginal improvements all round. The big improvement should be how long the toe stiffness lasts which should be considerably longer.

I have no opinion on the new heel as yet though I've never felt that is the core purpose of the Whites anyway.

In reply to ukb & bmc shark:

Is the sizing the same as the originals? Just wearing the last of my original pairs out and need to replace them soon.

Thanks.

TJB.

In reply to Climber_Bill:

I've found the sizing to be a fraction tighter on the new ones, maybe because of the heel (which I find great).

In reply to jezb1:

Thanks, that's just what I need to know.

Cheers,

TJB.

In reply to Climber_Bill:

Yes - what jezb1 said

In reply to ukb & bmc shark:

Thanks Shark.

Cheers,

TJB.

In reply to Climber_Bill:

I managed to fit into a smaller size in the new Blancos.