UKC

Yorkshire offwidths - Suggestions required, sandbags welcome

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 spenser 05 Jun 2017
I've foolishly agreed to run a meet themed around offwidthing which is taking place in two weeks time, as meet leader I feel obliged to come up with a list of routes.
So far the list of routes which have been suggested are:
Central Crack at Brimham
Giggling Crack at Brimham
Charming Crack - Brimham
Brutaliser - Brimham
True Grit - Brimham
Frensis Direct - Brimham
Desperation Crack - Brimham
Bog Crack - Brimham
Hourglass Chimney - Brimham
Keeper Crack - Brimham
Dogleg Crack - Brimham
Slippery Crack - Brimham
I've dug up a couple of old threads which are promising, however further (especially none brimham suggestions would be great, they're allowed to be hard as there are couple of strong people coming along!
 pebbles 05 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

Hourglass chimney. Constrictor crack. Roadside (trackside? ) Crack. Can remember what it is and how to do it, just keep getting the name wrong
 k_os 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

No match for climb id:35572 at Caley Crags
 webbo 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:
Charming crack, True Grit, Frensis direct and Tipling crack are fist cracks at their widest.
 Fredt 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

Fat Man's Misery & Every Man's Misery - Burbage

Crew Cut - Millstone
 pebbles 06 Jun 2017
In reply to webbo:
frensis direct is a true offwidth in its E1 finish, you must be thinking of Frensis.
Post edited at 09:00
 pebbles 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Fredt:
think "yorkshire north of the humber" rather than Peak

To get more specific, its focussed around brimham, though caley could well fit in there too
Post edited at 09:04
 Michael Gordon 06 Jun 2017
In reply to pebbles:

I thought Frensis Direct was a hand crack but it perhaps depends how far you get up it! Desperate for E1 either way...
 Andy Say 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

The Creation at Guisecliff?

For a bit of variety: Quad Crack at Attermire?
 1poundSOCKS 06 Jun 2017
In reply to pebbles:

> frensis direct is a true offwidth in its E1 finish, you must be thinking of Frensis.

The offwidth bit can be avoided, there are enough holds around it. Not to say you can't ignore them for practice.

To the OP: there a really pure offwidth at Earl Crag called The Offwidth.
 petegunn 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:
There's some lists that have already been compiled by other user's.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=624

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=545

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=173

Some of these climbs need size 5 & 6 cams to protect well if leading.
Post edited at 10:08
 pebbles 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

no, thats Frensis. The top of frensis direct is an open, holdless groove
1
 pebbles 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Andy Say:

needs to be brimham/caley area
 pebbles 06 Jun 2017
In reply to petegunn:
tube break, top dead centre, harrys crack ...good call!
crackeroo and Inside out
closet crack? wouldnt call that one off width really. its a huge giggle though.
Post edited at 10:44
 HeMa 06 Jun 2017
In reply to webbo:

> ...crack are fist cracks at their widest.

I guess it really depends on the size of the fist...

One mans hand crack is anothers offwidth.

 Bulls Crack 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Too wide for my thin hands - layaways I seem to remember!
 Lankyman 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

Apparently, there's this other rock in Yorkshire that has climbing on it as well - limestone. It's overflowing with offwidths I'm led to believe. Head to Attermire Attermire Scar and you'll see a few - Quad Crack would be nice for your meet.
 dunnyg 06 Jun 2017

I heard offwidth his head at earls seat or lords seat is good.
Theres supposed to be some wide on the end of the big roof crack at flaystones.
Tippling crack at caley isnt offwidth (for me).
Moughton mauler is supposed to be good but i've only walked past.
Car park crack at brimham looks fun..
Post edited at 18:00
 Andrew Wilson 06 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

Botterils crack - ilkley quarry. It's definitely an offwidth, may well be a sandbag too.
 webbo 06 Jun 2017
In reply to pebbles:

> no, thats Frensis. The top of frensis direct is an open, holdless groove

If it's a hold less groove it's not an off width and I'm pretty sure it's not Holdless either.
 1poundSOCKS 06 Jun 2017
In reply to pebbles:

> The top of frensis direct is an open, holdless groove

There are holds, just not big ones. I didn't have to use the crack at the top.
 Michael Gordon 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Too wide for my thin hands - layaways I seem to remember!

Baggy hands I think I'd call it, and yes I also had to try it with layaways. Either way, how does sustained 5c (or harder?) get E1?
 webbo 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:
Because it's HVS
Post edited at 20:30
 Bulls Crack 06 Jun 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

'low in the grade but awkward enough to keep you working' and most think 5b

I can't remember - just a little grit thing
OP spenser 06 Jun 2017
In reply to webbo:

I'll send Pebbles up it and see what kind of suffering/ thrutching noises come down before making any decision on the subject of doing it myself by the sound of things, I'm expecting thrutching and generally being battered as the order of the day!
Thanks for all of the suggestions everyone, I'll run through them all and get a list put together later this week.
 pebbles 07 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

I think the possible hand crack section youre referring to, which is common to both the VS and E1 versions, is best done as a layoff - it is when I do it anyway. I havnt succesfully led the direct yet! Made an attempt last year, but was cut short when my belayer pleaded for an immediate retreat to escape the midges ( TBH it wasnt going to be quick). Not strong enough for it at the mo!
 Michael Gordon 07 Jun 2017
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Sorry I'm an idiot! Was thinking of Tufted Crack (Ilkley) not Frensis Direct which I reckon is E1 5a, and not one to jam (not really a crack). Probably also remembered the Tufted crack size wrong
Post edited at 09:31
 petegunn 07 Jun 2017
In reply to Lankyman:
Quad Crack and Plumbline etc. are fist cracks both are very good, also Maughton Mauler is a fist crack.
The only real limestone off width that I've done is Twinking Crack (E1 5b) in Chapel le dale

For those that have done the " Dirty Dozen" at Brimham I've added a " Dirty Dozen More"

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=629

These 24 routes should keep you busy for a while : )
Post edited at 09:46
 petegunn 07 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:
If you have a couple of pads

Born Again (f7A+) at Brimham

Is a quality boulder problem off width, which will provide excellent entertainment
Post edited at 10:00
 Bulls Crack 07 Jun 2017
In reply to Michael Gordon:

Ahh Tufted Crack - desperate knuckle jams!
 MeMeMe 07 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

I wrote a Yorkshire offwidth ticklist a few years ago when I actually had some time to get out climbing - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=624
 Rakim 08 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:


definitely Born again!!



 Anti-faff 08 Jun 2017
In reply to spenser:

Another one for Born Again, class! Wear old clothes you don't mind getting trashed.

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