UKC

Hi

A couple of years ago Iweclimbed the south pillar on Dent d'Orlu (Le Pilier Sud (6a)), and I've got my eyes on another mega route there: Les Enfants de la Dalle (6a+)

However, I'd like to visit new places (too many trips to Ariege!). So I'm looking for recommendation for similar length/quality route - 25+ pitches averaging 6a, sport or trad. Sleeping en route is fine.

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Jim

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Mongenjura Sud pillar in Romsdal. only 24 pitches, but most of them are long though (40 to 60m).

In fact, Norway is littered with such climbs.


Oh, and I wish people would stop talkin' about the number of pitches and instead refer solely climbing meters.

After all, historically numerous classic lines in the alps have really short pitches (generally between 10 and 30m). More modern lines, can have longer pitches though...

I might ask, which one is longer. Vestpillaren on Presten (Lofoten) 9 pitches or Amazzonia on Piccolo Dain at 11 pitches... Well, the former is around 470m and the latter almost half as much (250m).

In reply to HeMa:

Cassin on Piz Badile. 800m 6a. around 25 pitches.
route desctiption and topo below:
https://stat.ethz.ch/~dettling/badile.html

In reply to JimboWizbo:

The Marmolada South Face is littered with routes 800m long on solid calcarious limestone. They are mostly trad but there are a few routes which are somewhat bolted with lots of fixed gear. Otherwise there are routes on the Civetta NW face 1400m long (Solleder-Lettenbauer and the Comici), Monte Agner (Messner and south arete) but these are Alpine trad, the NW face of Sass Pordoi, South Face of Tofana di Rozes amongst many others.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Have a look at "Sarca Walls"

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Or the Dollies - marmolada, tofana, many more

In reply to Deadeye:

Yup, but to be honest... quite often most of the truly long routes (so really 500+ meters) are harder than the 6a given by the OP.

But that doesn't mean they don't exist.

Up to 500m (so ~10 pitches ), it's rather easy to find numerous suitable lines. But to go past that, well, not that many. And certainly not that many in the alps that don't fall into Alpine climbing realm.

That said, the same applies for most of Norways offerings. But there really is a lot at the feable grade of 6a or so, and they can be long... e.g. the Mongenjura is just shy of 1000m of climbing.

In reply to JimboWizbo:
There's the Grimsel Marathon in the Grimselpass that combines 3 routes together to give a whopping 24 pitches on granite, see https://27crags.com/crags/gerstenegg/routes/grimsel-marathon

Lots of other routes in the Grimselpass with many pitches. One advantage of the "Marathon" is you can walk down, the other routes invariably require abseils which can take as long as the climbs.

In the Ecrins, Pets de Rupricaprius just above Ailefroide is pretty good Pets de Rupricaprcaprins (6a) - also a walk off.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

How about Salbit...?
Salbitschijen

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Dolomites would be my first choice for long multipitch pure rock routes.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Here's a nice little 40-pitch bolted number in Austria (Disclaimer: haven't done it)

http://www.bergsteigen.com/sites/default/files/topos/536_Topo_14567375-3c8f...

In fact there's an entire book of long bolted routes on eastern Alps lime, if you can cope with topos in German:

http://www.panico.de/longlines.html

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Try the Crozzon di Brenta classic Guides Route, about 660m 18 pitches or the longer and harder French Pillar, about 1000m 25 pitches. There's a bivvy hut at the top. There's lots of other good climbing there too for you to warm up on.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Look at Catalunya. Terradets and maybe Montrebei, Collagets has some big stuff but maybe not that big and the North Walls at Montserrat looked pretty big to me.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

I started a ticklist for this kind of thing a while ago - will update with recommendations from this thread (I don't know the Dolomites at all) https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1633

In reply to J1234:


Generally about one third the length and much more trad than Les Enfants de la Dalle.

Are there any specific routes at Terradets, Montrebei or Collegats that you'd recommend?

In reply to humptydumpty:

No. Just know that when we went to Terradets it was a bit like when you look up at El Cap, and look up, then again then again. Just bought the Montrebei guide and have to translate it.

In reply to J1234:


It's a stunning spot, but I doubt many lines get up to 10 pitches.

Terradets sounds intriguing... will have to check in the guide tonight.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Thanks everyone

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Wilder Kaiser has a lot of mountain sport routes of that grade where the longer ones are 15 - 25 pitches.

In reply to uphillnow:

True. I did Kirchl Express a couple of years ago which was quite nice, although it falls short of real classic status by having a being walking section in the middle. Also very popular - we got stuck behind a slow party of complete incompetents who bombarded us with rocks.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

val di mello,

kundalini - luna nascente linkup

In reply to JimboWizbo:

Walker du livet in West ecrins was 35 pitch, IIRC. 6b though, all bolted and easy stuff in the middle you can move together on. La Solei rendezvous avec la lune is 26 pitches, above the Envers Hut on the Mer dear Glace, if they suit?

In reply to J1234:


It does indeed look VERY big. Looks like there should be some 5-600m routes there, probably trad-ish.

In reply to JimboWizbo:

The east pillar of Semletind in Romsdal is a huge route, reported to be the longest pure rock climb in europe. Nobody really knows how long it is as it zigzags a lot but I've heard of estimated between 2000 and 3000 meters.

It's very very serious though and the weather is rubbish. The top section is reported to be very very loose. Probably not what youre looking for but a nice bit of trivia

The pillar is the right hand of the pillars here

http://www.trollshop.net/anders/troll_wall_area/DSCF1212.JPG

It starts up the bowl on the right until you get to the big pale ledge then it traverses out and goes up the ridge.

In reply to AlanLittle:

Yes shame about that bit. Final chimney best pitch! I was also thinking of the Kleine Halt with some rather longer routes.

In reply to humptydumpty:

Terradets is a bit disappointing, I have been looking through the local guidebook and there are routes in the 450-550m range but often they involve lots of pitches at 4 - 5+. There are a few with some aid required, however after doing one of the Smoking sector 220m routes the grades could be considerably harder - I did something expecting the mandatory grade to be 6a+, turned out to be closer to 6c. I am still looking to see if there is anything suitable for a rope solo - cheap easy access and egress.

In reply to HansStuttgart:

You could do it in the day but if you like a bivvy the Bosco Encanto would be very comfy and you could leave your stuff to collect on the way down.

In reply to philhilo:


Nowt wrong with Terradets, done some quite good routes there, and not done a bad one.
Lots of routes, all grades and length.
Cannot remember the grades being particularly harsh. All relative anyway, its only a number, adapt.