/ FRI NIGHT VID: James Pearson E10 at Annot

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.
UKC News - on 16 Jun 2017
James Pearson makes the first ascent of Le Voyage E10 7a, 4 kbBack in May, we reported that James Pearson had made the first ascent of an impressive E10 7a crack line at Annot, in Provence. He named the route Le Voyage. Our Friday Night Video is made by James and documents his ascent of the route.

Read more
henwardian - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

4kN is why :D

Is the green superlight equal in size to an IMP 4? If so, you can get 7kN out of the same placement with a brassy.

Still, good to know that a medium-sized fall is about 5-6kN, means with my lardy arse I probably shouldnt make any kind of a runout unless I have at least 8kN minimum under me!
Emilio Bachini - on 16 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:
What great looking rock!
Rad - on 16 Jun 2017
Fun video, but you might want to mute the last third.
Graham Booth on 17 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort!! But the constant allez must add a grade!!!!
Red Rover - on 17 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

Listen to the sound from 6 mins in, sounds like a gentle porno
wbo - on 17 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News: I've been to Annot a few times but haven't climbed there. It looks really good but I'm not sure I'd have much faith in small wires in that rock - still they seem to work.

Are the routes there clean, or a bit sandy if unclimbed?

Steve Perry - on 17 Jun 2017
In reply to UKC News:

I like their videos, they always seem to be really enjoying themselves.
Luke Brooks - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to henwardian:

> 4kN is why :D

They're rated to 6kN according to the WC website, but that's for the 'new for 2017' ones. Do you have amd older model rated to 4kN?
French Erick - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to wbo:

the chambre du roi tend to be cleaner than further along on the middle terrace. It's soft sandstone so it varies from clean to a pile of choss (beware that 3* 6b down at the cascade...not one for a fall!).

It's an absolutely awesome venue but it takes a while to get to know what's where.

That French 7a start to James' E10 is brutal and sore!
simon cox - on 18 Jun 2017
In reply to Rad:
I am not sure about this video, I imagine u wud need to try to make an E10 look so dull. Give me Irish Si on End of the Affair in "Consumed" every day of the week... the "float move" a juxtaposition between ease and audacity.
ericinbristol - on 18 Jun 2017
henwardian - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Luke Brooks:

I don't have superlight rocks so I just googled them and came up with this:
https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/superlight-rock-size-p-278.html
Which does say "4kN", but as you say, the WC site says "6kN" so I guess the real question is whether James had an old weak one or a new strong one :D
Bob Kemp - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to simon cox:

I liked the kind of low-key presentation here - makes a change from hyped-up over-excited vids. Seemed very British actually - in the best way.
jon on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Bob Kemp:

> Seemed very British actually - in the best way.

Seemed rather Anglo-Français, to me...

Bob Kemp - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to jon:

Hah, yes, in terms of language... but that understated approach?
jon on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to Bob Kemp:
Well not really language as it's more or less English... but more that one's French, and the other isn't
Post edited at 15:09
CurlyStevo - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to henwardian:
the super light rocks have always been 6kn above the smaller sizes, the only change is the old ones size 1 and 2 are rated at 4kn and the new ones only size 1 at 4kn.

The reason I stopped using my super light rocks is for a few grams I don't think cutting the safety margin down to 6kn is worth it. I think for a nut to be almost impossible to break single pitch trad climbing it needs to be atleast 8kn and possibly 9kn. Also bare in mind on multi pitch belay anchors are unlikely to be evenly loaded and you may need stronger gear still in the case of a factor two fall on to the belay.

Apparently there used to be a lot of gate open biner failures when most of them were rated under 7/8 kn gate open but now we see much fewer as they are able to handle this.
Post edited at 15:23
ads.ukclimbing.com
Bob Kemp - on 19 Jun 2017
In reply to jon:

Okay... we are of one accord really

Please Register as a New User in order to reply to this topic.