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utah

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Rog Saxton 20 Jun 2017
Hi, there's too much choice and too many guide books!! For a first trip mid to late Sept this year, where to fly into, where to camp, where to sample? Trad and sport. Suggestions pls! Cheers, Roger
 kenr 20 Jun 2017
If you don't have much idea what climbing you want to do
. . . (except for "Not bouldering"?)
How did you come to choose Utah?

If you're visiting Utah for a main reason other than climbing, how could you not know what airport you're flying into?
. . . (There's not many alternatives)

Ken
2
 cat22 21 Jun 2017
In reply to Rog Saxton:

SLC is the only major international airport in Utah, so unless you're looking to make it into a roadtrip to/from Denver or Las Vegas, that one's easy to answer!

What grades are you looking for? Single or multi pitch? Do you like climbing in hot weather? Do you like crack climbing? Do you want to climb a big wall? As you say, there's a lot of climbing in Utah!

The "route finder" on the front page of mountainproject.com may also help you pick areas to visit.
 Ron Kenyon 21 Jun 2017
In reply to Rog Saxton:

There is so much choice. We flew to Las Vagas and drove from there but need about a day there and back. Can include Zion with travel back through Capital Reef National Park (limited rock climbing (Classic Hand Crack) - and also Red Rocks.
Salt Lake City - some what closer - with crags round there - then out to Moab with Fisher Towers, Castle Valley, Wall Street etc - then Indian Creek if you are into jamming (don't forget the tape) - and the Desert Towers (Ultimate adventure !). Also San Rafael Reef / Swell for some added adventure (look on Mountain Project)
Think about transport - car OK for all the roads but if going off road consider something more substantial.
Good hostel at The Lazy Lizard in Moab (Best hostel in the world ! - so they say)
 Offwidth 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Rog Saxton:

Its normally a bit warm then for much of Utah including Zion but the Supertopo is great if things are OK and as another poster says Mountain Project is really good. Flying into Vegas may well be cheaper and gives more alternatives (like the High Sierra).
 Offwidth 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Ron Kenyon:

Great list Ron but most of it will be hot hot hot in September. We were warm on Ancient Art on Fisher Towers on new years day! They probably need to be a lot higher up.
 Alan Rubin 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Rog Saxton:
As others have said, the normal place to fly into is Salt Lake City. There is excellent climbing in the canyons just west of the city--granite (Little Cottonwood), quartzite (Big Cottonwood), and limestone (American Fork, some high up in Little Cottonwood)--depending on the canyon. September can still be warm, but there are always shady options in the canyons. Routes are primarily single pitch but there are longer ones as well. Higher up and multi-pitch are Bell Canyon and Lone Pine Peak--both granite.

North of Salt Lake, just south of the Wyoming border (2 hour ?) drive are the Uinta Mountains with quartzite sport and trad climbs in a beautiful alpine environment at 10,500 ft. but very easy walks from the road. Maybe a bit chilly in Sept. but still likely climbable. Northwest of Salt Lake, in south central Idaho--3-4 hour drive, is the City of Rocks/Castle Rock area---one of the best, in my opinion, cragging areas in the US, in a truly 'wild west' environment--sport and trad and Sept is perfect.

Further south, in central Utah, again 3-4 hour drive is the extensive cobble-climbing of Maple Canyon---Riglos without the commitment. Joe's Valley bouldering is also in central Utah. Both these areas should be fine in September. Others have mentioned the pluses and minuses of the Moab/Indian Creek area. It should be emphasized that this area is well worth the visit even if you don't climb there.

Further south places such as Zion and the numerous areas around St. George are best reached by flying into Las Vegas. These areas will be hot in Sept., but shade can be found--and, given the low humidity of the desert, shady climbing is usually possible even during the summer (though currently with temps over 110F in that region that likely isn't the case).

Loads of other areas but this should give you some ideas.
 Robert Durran 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Rog Saxton:
I've climbed in Indian Creek in September. Hot, but bearable in the shade (and I hate heat) and easy enough to find shade at any time of day. Maybe not ideal but fine for sampling the brilliant climbing.
Post edited at 21:11
 Robert Durran 22 Jun 2017
In reply to Ron Kenyon:

> Good hostel at The Lazy Lizard in Moab (Best hostel in the world ! - so they say)

Great for a powerful shower occasionally to wash off the dust and sweat, but it would be a waste to swap the pleasure of camping in the desert for the collection of oddballs which seem to hang out there in my opinion!

 Ron Kenyon 24 Jun 2017
In reply to Robert Durran:

Would agree - time camping in the desert is something special !

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