/ Conditions in Chamonix in autumn

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reesjuurmaa - on 25 Jun 2017

Hello!

I'm an alpinist from Estonia and I'm planning another 10-14 day climbing trip to Chamonix in the upcoming autumn. Me and my partner are interested in technical routes and classical gully climbing from D+ up to ED. Frendo Spur, Eugster Direct, Supercouloir etc... Based on your experience, what would you say is most likely the best month in autumn to come? Possible timeframe: end of September to end of November.

I know it's hard to say for certain, because the conditions vary year to year. But based on your experience and intuition, what would you say?

Thank you kindly for your advice!
Post edited at 13:59
wbo - on 25 Jun 2017
In reply to reesjuurmaa: wait till the winter. Of those months earlier the better.

LakesWinter on 25 Jun 2017
In reply to reesjuurmaa:

Basically the wetter the summer the better in general.... So keep an eye and if the weather is bad in the summer and precipitation is high like in 2014 and 2007 then the autumn conditions should become good as there's lots of water/snow in the system to make ice from.

Conversely hot and dry summers generally lead to less good autumn conditions. Anyway, I've quit alpinism. Honest.
jerseysam - on 30 Jun 2017
In reply to reesjuurmaa:

This summer in France is proving very dry with less than average rainfall all over the country...
1
JuhoK - on 30 Jun 2017
In reply to reesjuurmaa:
I'd say your best bet is October. Usually there's some mixed routes to do by then. Frendo might be snowy though. September can be good also, but then wet summer is required. Last two Autumn's have been dry, but in 2015 we managed to climb Eugster Direct, Matterhorn and Eiger N faces and in 2016 Ginat, Late to Say I'm sorry etc. smaller routes. It's all about finding the routes that are "doable". I don't say in best conditions, but climbable anyway. I would book flights closer to Autumn to see which month is better, but in general October offers some mixed every year.
Post edited at 18:13

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