In reply to Offwidth:
> I just can't remember any difficulty on pitch 1 at all... maybe there are variations.
Yes, the team ahead of us didn't go up to the traverse overhang, we did.
> The crux is a pure friction slab with a solid 5a move right next to a bolt as you diagonal up and left to the main dyke: this pitch would be HVS in many places in the UK.
Yes, agree. Presumably you mean P3, if you split P1.
> ... talk of slinging chicken heads is from people with more optimism than sense.
In that case, I plead guilty, y'r 'onour.
> the Mod top-out is as long as the route so you need to move fast.
Agreed, also with your comments about finding the best line to the start.