/ Training Books / Online Resources

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L her_t6 - on 08 Aug 2017

Hi,

I'm looking for some recommendations on some good books/blogs etc for technique, training and nutrition -separate books if need be. I don't want to go buy books online in case they are rubbish before maybe getting some recommendations. I hit a plateau a while back and I know this is because I mostly do the same thing each time I train but I'm looking to get out this bad habit and learn some more things.

I will also have a look around on the forum as I know this question will get asked alot. I thought I would ask in case anyone has any new things they have found online etc and doesn't mind sharing.

Cheers,

Tommy
Post edited at 10:53
wbo - on 08 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6: any specific type of climbing - bouldering, alpinism or so on?

L her_t6 - on 08 Aug 2017
In reply to wbo:

Good question I should have mentioned that - mostly trad climbing/bouldering.
stp - on 08 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Dave Macleod's book, 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes, is a must have.

Lots of stuff on the web. Mani the Monkey's Youtube channel has quite a bit of stuff on now. As does TrainingBeta.com which also has a regular podcast interview on training with various well known climbers.

Also powercompanyclimbing.com has a regular podcast too.

THere's a new book by Jerry Moffatt on the mental side of climbing that I imagine will be very good. Due out in a month or so.
climberchristy on 08 Aug 2017
In reply to wbo:

Plus 1 for Dave Mc's 9 out of 10 climbers

Neil Gresham's Masterclass DVDS x2 have been around a good while and you probably already know them but if not then I'd recommend.
abseil on 08 Aug 2017
In reply to stp:

> Dave Macleod's book, 9 out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes, is a must have....

Made me curious, I haven't read the book but here are my guesses as to 10 mistakes:

*drop rocks on second's head
*overestimate ability
*forget crucial gear and climb anyway
*use ropes which are past their sell-by date
*hard pulls on very loose holds
*climb hard stuff in the rain
*climb with inattentive seconds
*climb hard stuff after a 6-hour session in the pub
*ignore avalanche warnings
*climb snow & ice late in the day

Am I right?
L her_t6 - on 09 Aug 2017
In reply to stp:

I will get Macleods book and read it.

Very helpfully never knew about those website so will be sure to check them out.

I will keep an eye out for Jerry Moffats book - I didn't even know he was bring out a new book so I look forward to that.

Thanks again!
L her_t6 - on 09 Aug 2017
In reply to climberchristy:

I have watched the Materclass DVDs before but I think I will go back and watch them as I'm sure I will understand it more now and maybe pick up some things I missed last time - cheers for the recommendation.
paul__in_sheffield - on 09 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Just another vote for Dave Mac's 9 out of 10 climbers book. The sections where he puts forward his theories about fear of falling are particularly good. He proposes that it's necessary to take thousands of leader falls per year to keep on top of it. I integrated this into a training regime and it's had really positive effects even for my puntering. He obviously knows his stuff.

There are probably loads of training books out there. The one I go back to and use regularly off my bookshelves is the Cafe Kraft 'Gimme Kraft' book. The regime has turned out the Megos machine so appears to be effective. It's a good balance between wall, rings and other equipment training and is reasonably easy to set up at home. Some really good stuff to introduce to break up circuits at the bouldering wall.

I have high hopes for the Jerry book. I don't think I ever met anyone who apart from base innate ability had such self-belief and drive. Others may have different terms and euphemisms to describe this though ;-)

Paul
Mick Ward - on 09 Aug 2017
In reply to abseil:

Have managed 7 1/2 out of 10! Am not minded to repeat any of 'em.

'Experience is the name we give to our mistakes.'

Mick
ads.ukclimbing.com
abseil on 09 Aug 2017
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Have managed 7 1/2 out of 10! Am not minded to repeat any of 'em.

That sounds a lot, Mick, good confession anyway! PS I've only done 4 / 10...
RockSteady on 09 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

For me, Dave McLeod's book is only good if you know what you're doing in the first place, perhaps as a supplement to other training resources.

For me, the gold-standard for climbing movement training is The Self-Coached Climber. And for an implementable training programme, The Rock Climber's Training Manual.
L her_t6 - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to paul__in_sheffield:

Good for another +1 on Macleods book - now purchased.

I will have a look into the Cafe Kraft books - thanks!

Thanks for your help Paul

Cheers,
alx - on 10 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Don't expect any training plans, exercises, schedules from 9 out of 10 climbers, the book targets areas well before you even consider what you want to do.

For training, TrainingBeta.com podcasts are really good.

I would hasten to say that UKbouldering.com has an excellent collection of training links in their training forums.
stp - on 12 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

> I will have a look into the Cafe Kraft books

Gimme Kraft! is a good book but pretty one dimensional. It's basically a book of exercises to supplement climbing. The exercises are divided into equipment used: bouldering wall, pull up bar, rings, campus board, peg board, Slingtrainer (eg. TRX), floor exercises (inc. Swiss ball and paralletes), and sloper rails (a roof beam with sloping holds on either side).

The Gimme Kraft guide to effective training (supplements the book) can be downloaded as a PDF for free from their web site.
Fishmate - on 13 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:
On the UKB site, they have a thread on the training forum, listing a lot of resources. Well worth checking out.
Post edited at 23:57
Rock to Fakey - on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Eric Horst, the author of the Training for Climbing book, also hosts a great website resource... http://trainingforclimbing.com/

Rock to Fakey - on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Rock to Fakey:

I see there's a new book available there too, which can be ordered over here via Dave McCleods website... http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/RockClimbersExerciseGuide.html
Rock to Fakey - on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to her_t6:

Climb strong also has a good website, and a new book out in Feb this year....
Linear Progression... https://www.climbstrong.com/store
L her_t6 - on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to Rock to Fakey:

Thank you - looks like those are the type of books I'm after! Cheers!
ads.ukclimbing.com
L her_t6 - on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to stp:

Cheers - had a quick look into that and looks like there may be some useful things for me to try! Thanks again!
L her_t6 - on 14 Aug 2017
In reply to alx:

Thanks mate! i will have a look on ukbouldering.com - never even knew about the site but looks like theres plenty things on there so will have a good search about.
Yanis Nayu - on 15 Aug 2017
In reply to RockSteady:

Agreed - the Self-Coached Climber should come before 9 out of 10.

Neil Gresham's videos are good too.

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