UKC

Our Friday Night Video is an account Hayden Kennedy and Nik Berry climbing The Hallucinogen Wall (5.13R) in Black Canyon. The route was originally established as a 16 pitch, A5 aid climb. Hansjörg Auer first free climbed the route in 2011. Jim Newberry named the route after all the climbers that would look at the route and say 'you'd have to be hallucinating to see a route up there.'

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In reply to UKC News:
That's like, a totally awesome rad film

In reply to UKC News:

So they really do talk like that.

Golly.

In reply to UKC News:

I wouldn't fancy using that snapgate on the hanging belay at 4:15.

In reply to colin8ll:


Whyever not?

More generally, having been to considerable lengths to produce a film of an iconic hard route in one of the most stunning and atmospheric places in the US, it's impressive how they managed to make the entire thing feel so soulless. I'm no video expert but I think someone should tell the producer that simply having one of the climbers mention that it's a totally rad place, isn't the same as communicating to the viewers that the place is, in fact, totally rad.

In reply to john arran:

Have a like.

In reply to Deadeye:

>


When given a load of food by a bunch of lasses from Georgia when me and my missus were travelling in South America, I replied "Goodness me, thanks!". They actually screamed "Oh my God! What did you say? Say it again, say it again. We luuuurve your accent..."

The missus stormed off in a huff, with a whispered, "I'll leave you to your fan club..."

Vive la différence!

In reply to Tom Last:

I was asked by a somewhat buxom blond barmaid in Bishop where I came from.

BBBM: "Gee, you guys talk really good english! Where do you come from?"
Us: "England."
BBBM: "So what language do you guys normally speak?"
Us: "Mainly English."
BBBM: "Really?"
Us: "Yeah English pretty much comes from England."
BBBM: "Well you learn something new everyday."

In reply to beardy mike:

Classic. I have a mental image of her with BBBM emblazoned across her chest now.

In reply to Big Steve:

If you want some "sweet rad " then this is the video for you
youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU&
Warning : A little bit of swearing

In reply to Big Steve:
I remember commenting similarly about some "super empowered, totally rad" American lass on a Friday night video. To be honest l found this video less annoying. Not sure if I am alone, but these Americanisms really seem to offend some deep seated Britishness I have. Or maybe it's an age thing, and I am plain old!

So why do so many seem to be anoyed by this inane American drivel?

In reply to Wayne S:



I usually find Americans too much over here, but try to make allowances.

Over there, maybe acclimatise and accept it easier.

I also find drunk folk annoying, unless I am blotted myself.

Might even get round to watching the video, sometime.

In reply to Wayne S:



https://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=650294

In reply to Wayne S:


No, you're not alone and don't blame yourself or your age. It is just intrinsically offensive.

In reply to Robert Durran:
I really can't put my finger on it to be honest, I can live with Allez, Allez, Allez.....even Venga, Venga. But a "totally Rad send dude" and the other US drivel..... and I suddenly start to rant!

In reply to Wayne S:


Because it's inane drivel.

In reply to UKC News:

"Hayden wore socks"

A kindred spirit.

In reply to john arran:

I quite like the understated nature. Big route 5.13R dispatched in 9 hours, no falls and hauling; plus due respect to the FA team. Moaning about the film quality seems to indicate that maybe we are a bit spoilt by the commitment and love of our own film makers. As for the language stuff its good to see our country working so hard to accept different lexicons and accents.... by the time I die we might even get somewhere close to acceptance. I mean, northern accents on UK TV are just cute now rather than a shock that requires a letter to the Telegraph.

In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:
I'll shake his hand and give him an isotonic fermented barley performance drink for that alone One of the great things about these top US climbers is when they turn up to organised charity events like Facelift and mingle, they don't look down on British bumblies and their weird vocabularies ... you get to talk to them (and rarely need your translation thesaurus). The audience get to demonstate real and loud enthusiasm for their heros and their flawed movies without worrying someone in the audience might suspect excess drunkeness or a nervous breakdown. Looking forward to experiencing it again this September, for free, as a thank-you for litter clearing, in contrast to paying quite a lot to see better films and talks at say Kendal in the company of some posh Brits who seem like they have been collectively on tranquilisers (and when the emotions really well up, having experienced something truely wonderful, they might gently applaud).

In reply to UKC News:

What a great looking piece of rock! I'd seen another video some time back (The Sharp End perhaps) with a bunch of 'old' climbers talking about the Black Canyon and effectively saying it was 'trad or nothing - no sport routes here', so it was interesting to see some of it at least is bolted.

In terms of the dude speak, I've definitely heard worse but it can be a little irksome when heard over this side of the pond.

In reply to john arran:



Seemed pretty amazing to me. It was, after all, a pretty short film, a snap shot if you like.

In reply to Offwidth:


I read some of the comments before watching the vid and felt there was very little rad/dude speak in it (but wouldn't have minded if there'd been more).

In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

Incompetent bumbly that I am, the fact that neither of them felt the need to wear a lid was slightly more disturbing than the Merkin rad dude lingo.

In reply to lummox:


Strangely I didn't notice.

In reply to UKC News:
Bit of sour grapes when the main complaint is about the way these climbers speak instead of admiration of a superb rock climb ...Makes a change for watching some well practiced chalk covered one pitch wonder.