UKC

I was climbing a lot before the summer and had series of week long trips interspersed with training, but felt good and no qualms from the fingers.
Having gone home for 8 weeks and only been able to climb once in that time I figured at least I could start back training with a well rested body from any niggles that might have been brewing.

Yet over the last 2ish weeks the knuckles on my index finger have become quite stiff, painful if I press on them, with the one near my fingertip always feeling like it needs clicking (which hurts). I feel pain in the middle knuckle when I bend it and my A2 pulley feels tender to press.

But I haven't been climbing?? It's come seemingly out of the blue.
I've resorted to google at length but everything finger related seems to be climbers who've been training hard/hear a pop so there's nothing I can relate to. It is possible that something was brewing before the summer and suddenly not using my fingers for such a time has worsened it? Sounds mad.

I'm keen to sort this asap now that I'm back where I can climb regularly but I haven't a clue where to start.

In reply to SiobhanStraver:

cant tell you what it is but ive got the same thing exactly, despite having only climbed indoors a few times this year. Im not sure what to do either but Ive been rubbing volterol gel on it to reduce the inflammation

In reply to SiobhanStraver:

I have a damaged ankle. 25,000 + steps most days over the summer. Mainly over rough terrain some times with a load. It's been great

1.5 week back at work 8,000 steps a day and it feels sore

If its serious get professional help. If its moderate then try light climbing

In reply to SiobhanStraver:
I have a similar problem in the knuckle of my RH ring finger: After climbing the joint is sore to bend (and to flex against resistance), the finger is painful to touch just in-front of the knuckle (non palm side), and tapping the knuckle (e.g. knocking on a table) is nearly always very painful.

My advice, go and see a climbing and/ or hand specialist, see what they say, keep an eye on it and be careful. While I haven't ever got close to understanding why mine is sore/ painful, it has never got worse either (despite taking a year off for an unrelated reason). Hope you get better soon. T.

In reply to SiobhanStraver:

I've got something similar too. In Make or Break it seems the closest thing could be synovitis. I've yet to see a specialist as zealously advised, but I did find this http://alexchapmanclimbing.com/my-experience-of-injuries/

I asked myself if I ever trained forearm antagonists. I haven't and so maybe it's worth a try, spending £2.50 on elaborate elastic bands from ebay and using them....

In reply to SiobhanStraver:

Tendons don't like change.

I take an extended rest of about 20 days of no climbing each year. After each and every one initially my finger middle joints are complaining and can get a bit swollen, it's just the joints' response telling you to be careful.

Unfortunately, climbing injuries, don't get fixed just by resting but really by active rehabilitation.

When you do come back after an extended period of rest your joints will be vulnerable, all of them, even the healthier ones.

What you need is an extremely gentle restart that takes weeks.

Something such as (assuming you climb routes):

1st week: Juggy 5s and 5+s only.
2nd week: Try a 6a, if it hurts more than 3/10 go back the previous line.
3rd week: Try a 6a+, once again if it hurts go back a grade.
4th week: 6b etc...

Of course the starting level will depend on your experinece in climbing etc.

After 6-8 weeks of rehabilitation chances are your fingers will feel considerably better.

Disclaimer! No physio here, just a climber, however a few years ago had a horrible joint tear that put me out for 6 months.