This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Remembered about this:
https://imgur.com/a/jSkHq
and got me thinking. The authors can have a lot of fun with these. I remember another at Meikle Ross that said something like "an epic undertaking (as in undertaker)"
Any others anyone want to share?
https://imgur.com/a/jSkHq
and got me thinking. The authors can have a lot of fun with these. I remember another at Meikle Ross that said something like "an epic undertaking (as in undertaker)"
Any others anyone want to share?
5
1
In reply to Violinist:
The historical notes for the Galloway sea cliffs in the same guidebook are worth a read.
The historical notes for the Galloway sea cliffs in the same guidebook are worth a read.
In reply to Violinist:
The section dealing with Mam Tor and Back Tor in the BMC Kinder guide comes to mind.
The section dealing with Mam Tor and Back Tor in the BMC Kinder guide comes to mind.
3
In reply to Violinist:
SOS at the Sea Walls at Avon used to ave a dotted line painted up it, now sadly faded, because the old route description used to read "Tear along the dotted line".
SOS at the Sea Walls at Avon used to ave a dotted line painted up it, now sadly faded, because the old route description used to read "Tear along the dotted line".
7
In reply to Violinist:
IIRC there is a climb called 'Alligator Crawl' after a song by Fats Waller because it is 'smooth and in the groove'
IIRC there is a climb called 'Alligator Crawl' after a song by Fats Waller because it is 'smooth and in the groove'
4
In reply to Violinist:
Give us some quotes guys! I don't have half of those books!
Speaking of painted lines, there's one at camby named after the graffiti at its foot I seem to remember. Cha, I think.
Give us some quotes guys! I don't have half of those books!
Speaking of painted lines, there's one at camby named after the graffiti at its foot I seem to remember. Cha, I think.
4
In reply to Violinist:
the mam tor one is a bit long to type as it has the character of a rant, but some highlights:
"The main face is a delightful blend of crumbling shale and a curious dirt which aspires to be solid. Almost like chocolate flakes stuck to the outside of an ice cream, there are also ribs of sandy rocks which masquerade as gritstone outcrops to lure unsuspecting climbers."
"Climbers tend not to admit openly that they have been near the place, and most folk when asked become evasive: :'It must have been my twin brother. He's an idiot' or 'I was abroad at the time'"
the mam tor one is a bit long to type as it has the character of a rant, but some highlights:
"The main face is a delightful blend of crumbling shale and a curious dirt which aspires to be solid. Almost like chocolate flakes stuck to the outside of an ice cream, there are also ribs of sandy rocks which masquerade as gritstone outcrops to lure unsuspecting climbers."
"Climbers tend not to admit openly that they have been near the place, and most folk when asked become evasive: :'It must have been my twin brother. He's an idiot' or 'I was abroad at the time'"
Post edited at 10:21
23
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:
Oh aye, Meikle Ross isn't it? Though it sadly doesn't have that description anymore if it's the same one. "Good slabby climbing up the middle of the right wall"
Oh aye, Meikle Ross isn't it? Though it sadly doesn't have that description anymore if it's the same one. "Good slabby climbing up the middle of the right wall"
In reply to Violinist:
Avon Gorge guidebook 1972 Ed Ward-Drummond: "Fingerrip" 4c. "........followed by a strenuous pull on a minute flake that has now disappeared ".
Avon Gorge guidebook 1972 Ed Ward-Drummond: "Fingerrip" 4c. "........followed by a strenuous pull on a minute flake that has now disappeared ".
9
In reply to Violinist:
"Medical students should note that this route has been the cause of some textbook examples of fractures." Sunset Slab, in the blue Froggatt guide.
"Medical students should note that this route has been the cause of some textbook examples of fractures." Sunset Slab, in the blue Froggatt guide.
9
In reply to Violinist:
In the same vein as mam tor, but more serious:
"Breakaway 500 feet Hard Extremely Severe (7.7.79)
Conveniently situated near the graveyard of Morwenstowe Church, Henna is the highest precipice on the Culm Coast, and the most frightening. The only route up the main cliff might well be available when other cliffs hereabouts become overcrowded... A huge boulder lies ominously beneath the central faultline. Terrordactyls, ice screws, stakes and a strong belief in one's immortality are the main requirements for an ascent.
A serious and committing route. After pitch 2 retreat would be at best extremely difficult or at worst terminally easy. The climb takes the central fault line gained from the left. All the equipment mentioned in the introduction is essential."
In the same vein as mam tor, but more serious:
"Breakaway 500 feet Hard Extremely Severe (7.7.79)
Conveniently situated near the graveyard of Morwenstowe Church, Henna is the highest precipice on the Culm Coast, and the most frightening. The only route up the main cliff might well be available when other cliffs hereabouts become overcrowded... A huge boulder lies ominously beneath the central faultline. Terrordactyls, ice screws, stakes and a strong belief in one's immortality are the main requirements for an ascent.
A serious and committing route. After pitch 2 retreat would be at best extremely difficult or at worst terminally easy. The climb takes the central fault line gained from the left. All the equipment mentioned in the introduction is essential."
27
In reply to Violinist:
There's a Tom Patey route called Alligator crawl on the Aberdeen seacliffs (Alligator Crawl (S) ) but maybe there's more than one as its an obvious name
There's a Tom Patey route called Alligator crawl on the Aberdeen seacliffs (Alligator Crawl (S) ) but maybe there's more than one as its an obvious name
1
6
In reply to Wingnut:
Read the photo caption for Sunset Slab in the current Froggatt to Black Rocks BMC guidebook. Not the description, but the photo caption. It should have been made into a BMC poster!
Read the photo caption for Sunset Slab in the current Froggatt to Black Rocks BMC guidebook. Not the description, but the photo caption. It should have been made into a BMC poster!
In reply to Violinist:
I remember Forked Lightning Crack described as - "The most striking route in the quarry" in one of the past YMC guides
I remember Forked Lightning Crack described as - "The most striking route in the quarry" in one of the past YMC guides
5
In reply to Violinist:
I love the phrase "Bazooka hand-jamming" in the description for Hell Crack, Stanage in the BMC definitive guide. Describes the kinematics perfectly.
I love the phrase "Bazooka hand-jamming" in the description for Hell Crack, Stanage in the BMC definitive guide. Describes the kinematics perfectly.
2
Rainbow of Recalcitrance (among others) from the Paul Williams Llanberis guide.
The Berry description in N Highlands North is also morbidly fascinating.
Post edited at 13:02
In reply to johncook:
We would if we had the guide?!
> Read the photo caption for Sunset Slab in the current Froggatt to Black Rocks BMC guidebook. Not the description, but the photo caption. It should have been made into a BMC poster!
We would if we had the guide?!
7
In reply to Doug:
Thats the one - Longhaven - did it way back in 1973.
Thats the one - Longhaven - did it way back in 1973.
In reply to Violinist:
Stanington Ruffs in a pre-2001 guidebook, something along the lines of
'may become popular if we have another outbreak of foot and mouth'
Stanington Ruffs in a pre-2001 guidebook, something along the lines of
'may become popular if we have another outbreak of foot and mouth'
8
3
In reply to radddogg:
"Oh joy! The pure pleasure of a warm spring evening, moving easily over perfect rock on subtle rounded holds, the world all about you. Unless, of course, you are convinced your feet are going to slip off useless smears while your hands grasp for rounded useless holds before you fall thirty feet to your death - gritstone soloing."
"Oh joy! The pure pleasure of a warm spring evening, moving easily over perfect rock on subtle rounded holds, the world all about you. Unless, of course, you are convinced your feet are going to slip off useless smears while your hands grasp for rounded useless holds before you fall thirty feet to your death - gritstone soloing."
10
In reply to Jenny C:
On Peak Rock?
It also gives an OS grid reference for every crag mentioned in it bar one: for Stannington Ruffs it says "Grid reference withheld to protect the unwary."
> Stanington Ruffs in a pre-2001 guidebook
On Peak Rock?
It also gives an OS grid reference for every crag mentioned in it bar one: for Stannington Ruffs it says "Grid reference withheld to protect the unwary."
Post edited at 18:00
8
In reply to deepsoup:
I just investigated, discovered I own the definitive guide for the area and seem to have just sent messages to friends proposing an expedition to plumb the depths...
All purely by accident of course.
I just investigated, discovered I own the definitive guide for the area and seem to have just sent messages to friends proposing an expedition to plumb the depths...
All purely by accident of course.
1
In reply to Violinist:
From Drummond's 1960s opus, 'Extremely Severe in the Avon Gorge' (or some such similarly self-deprecating title):
'Stand on the peg without using it for aid.'
Hmm... tricky... very tricky indeed.
I believe Drummond was a student of Philosophy at Bristol University, at the time. Presumably Logic was part of the course.
But hey, who really cares? It was Drummond being Drummond, larger than life and twice as much fun.
Mick
From Drummond's 1960s opus, 'Extremely Severe in the Avon Gorge' (or some such similarly self-deprecating title):
'Stand on the peg without using it for aid.'
Hmm... tricky... very tricky indeed.
I believe Drummond was a student of Philosophy at Bristol University, at the time. Presumably Logic was part of the course.
But hey, who really cares? It was Drummond being Drummond, larger than life and twice as much fun.
Mick
6
In reply to deepsoup:
Merman's Meander (M)
As the sole logger of the above route on UKC I feel qualified to post the above link to my own description.
Merman's Meander (M)
As the sole logger of the above route on UKC I feel qualified to post the above link to my own description.
13
12
In reply to Violinist:
Of the many that Andrew Fraser has written up in Lowland Outcrops this one is particularly amusing.
Marie Celeste (VS 4b) - Another fine route now with mixed winter potential.
Its a sea cliff!
Of the many that Andrew Fraser has written up in Lowland Outcrops this one is particularly amusing.
Marie Celeste (VS 4b) - Another fine route now with mixed winter potential.
Its a sea cliff!
3
In reply to Violinist:
A couple of large friends are useful - for carrying your mauled body back to the car!
Ray's Roof at Ramshaw.
A couple of large friends are useful - for carrying your mauled body back to the car!
Ray's Roof at Ramshaw.
16
In reply to Misha:
Very similar to a route ( can't remember which one) on the back wall of lawrencefield , take 2 friends, one for the crack and one to drive to hospital. And who can forget "gesticulating iguana" ventilate up the flareback and rock over for the obvious flopped knob!! The legend that is Steve Ashton
Very similar to a route ( can't remember which one) on the back wall of lawrencefield , take 2 friends, one for the crack and one to drive to hospital. And who can forget "gesticulating iguana" ventilate up the flareback and rock over for the obvious flopped knob!! The legend that is Steve Ashton
6
In reply to davidbeynon:
Am gutted I've lost my copy of nth Devon. Very quotable.
The holds resemble loosely packed playing cards and should remain unshuffledo
Good holds can be found on the beach
Etc etc
Am gutted I've lost my copy of nth Devon. Very quotable.
The holds resemble loosely packed playing cards and should remain unshuffledo
Good holds can be found on the beach
Etc etc
12
In reply to Violinist:
I got sent an interesting one the other day, The Enchanted Broccoli Garden (E7):
https://imgur.com/a/og7tY
I got sent an interesting one the other day, The Enchanted Broccoli Garden (E7):
https://imgur.com/a/og7tY
2
In reply to davidbeynon:
Good luck!
> I just investigated, discovered I own the definitive guide for the area and seem to have just sent messages to friends proposing an expedition to plumb the depths...
Good luck!
In reply to DerwentDiluted:
If anyone has done it, I might have known it would be you.
I went to have a look at the place and 'climbed' there once, many years ago. No idea what route it was, or even if it was one of the recorded routes. A sort of desperate scramble up a filthy corner past a tree. That was probably about a Mod, I was mortified and have never been back...
> As the sole logger of the above route on UKC I feel qualified to post the above link to my own description.
If anyone has done it, I might have known it would be you.
I went to have a look at the place and 'climbed' there once, many years ago. No idea what route it was, or even if it was one of the recorded routes. A sort of desperate scramble up a filthy corner past a tree. That was probably about a Mod, I was mortified and have never been back...
1
In reply to Violinist:
The following isn't a route description as such but an intro to the Picos de Europa taken from an old West Col guide to the area. It seems to be entirely designed to keep visitors away from the area:
The following isn't a route description as such but an intro to the Picos de Europa taken from an old West Col guide to the area. It seems to be entirely designed to keep visitors away from the area:
> Proximity to the ocean and the humid climate of the Costa Verde ensure that the Picos are veiled by damp weather for much of the year. The immediate hinterland to the S is notably drier. In spring and early summer rainfall tends to be plentiful; cloud cover is frequent except during the evening. A fine off-shore rain from the Atlantic is known locally as orbayu. July and August have a combined average rainfall of 2 in. In this period dense mist attends early morning, followed, after short clear periods, by a cloud blanket until early evening. There might be days without rain when a luminous fog smothers the shining white limestone wilderness and defeats all the skill an experienced party can muster to find the way. The best continuous clear spell is recorded as the last week of August and the first two of September - often prolonged well into this month. Then an immense sea of clouds fills the encroaching valleys to a height of 1500m, while the summit areas stand out clear above it all day long. Violent winds can be experienced in all weather conditions between May and September. At other times the region is very wet with considerable snowfall...
6
In reply to deepsoup:
I went and had a poke at Yr Esgair* in August. Ran away of course, but it has got me in the mood to work through some of the horrible sounding places that I have always been morbidly curious about.
Would you be interested in a visit to Back Tor?
*another all time classic description.
I went and had a poke at Yr Esgair* in August. Ran away of course, but it has got me in the mood to work through some of the horrible sounding places that I have always been morbidly curious about.
Would you be interested in a visit to Back Tor?
*another all time classic description.
Post edited at 11:52
In reply to davidbeynon:
The Back Tor on Derwent Edge is really nice.
(No ta, to the other one in the Peak.)
I just remembered John Arran's 'Planet Fear' write up of a trip to Birch Quarry. It was ace. Used to be here, but doesn't seem to exist any more. Don't suppose anyone kept a copy did they?
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/01_Birch_Quarry_834.html
> Would you be interested in a visit to Back Tor?
The Back Tor on Derwent Edge is really nice.
(No ta, to the other one in the Peak.)
I just remembered John Arran's 'Planet Fear' write up of a trip to Birch Quarry. It was ace. Used to be here, but doesn't seem to exist any more. Don't suppose anyone kept a copy did they?
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/01_Birch_Quarry_834.html
In reply to Violinist:
Some good ones here but the description of The Power And The Glory at Yew Cougar Scar in the 1992 Yorkshire Limestone guide takes some beating. Havent seen later editions to see if they have kept the description - pity if they havent. ( I see, on UKC, it is now 7c+ rather than E6 6c)
Some good ones here but the description of The Power And The Glory at Yew Cougar Scar in the 1992 Yorkshire Limestone guide takes some beating. Havent seen later editions to see if they have kept the description - pity if they havent. ( I see, on UKC, it is now 7c+ rather than E6 6c)
In reply to Violinist:
In the 1950 edition of the Fell and Rock Guidebook to Great Langdale there were two route descriptions that always made me chuckle.
One went "This pitch will only appeal to devotees of vertical grass climbing"
and another
" This is a garden, not a climb"
In the 1950 edition of the Fell and Rock Guidebook to Great Langdale there were two route descriptions that always made me chuckle.
One went "This pitch will only appeal to devotees of vertical grass climbing"
and another
" This is a garden, not a climb"
6
In reply to Doug:
Tom Patey did the first ascent of King Cobra with Chris Bonington in 1960, and wanted to call it 'Alligator Crawl' but was over-ridden by Bonington. 'One Mans Mountains', the collection of Patey's writings has the tale of the ascent in full.
Tom Patey did the first ascent of King Cobra with Chris Bonington in 1960, and wanted to call it 'Alligator Crawl' but was over-ridden by Bonington. 'One Mans Mountains', the collection of Patey's writings has the tale of the ascent in full.
1
In reply to deepsoup:
One of my regular partners in idiocy told me that neither he nor his twin brother would accompany me there when I raised the subject.
> (No ta, to the other one in the Peak.)
One of my regular partners in idiocy told me that neither he nor his twin brother would accompany me there when I raised the subject.
2
In reply to Violinist:
"I wasn't sure how many tickets to buy for the ferry over. The old joke about the four Japanese alpinists only buying two didn't seem funny any more. "
Re: Skeleton Ridge. From current Swanage guide quoting Bill Birkett's coffee table book of selected climbs.
"I wasn't sure how many tickets to buy for the ferry over. The old joke about the four Japanese alpinists only buying two didn't seem funny any more. "
Re: Skeleton Ridge. From current Swanage guide quoting Bill Birkett's coffee table book of selected climbs.
1
In reply to deepsoup:
Birch Quarry somewhere else I have choss bothered over the years!
...and come to think of it... both Peak Back Tors.
> I just remembered John Arran's 'Planet Fear' write up of a trip to Birch Quarry. It was ace. Used to be here, but doesn't seem to exist any more. Don't suppose anyone kept a copy did they?
Birch Quarry somewhere else I have choss bothered over the years!
...and come to think of it... both Peak Back Tors.
Post edited at 23:08
In reply to Violinist:
There was a crag in the Ochils called Craig Rossie in the old Lowland Outcrops guide, picturesque crag but very loose. The best route was described as 'Finishing on a mixture of tombstones and oatmeal',
There was a crag in the Ochils called Craig Rossie in the old Lowland Outcrops guide, picturesque crag but very loose. The best route was described as 'Finishing on a mixture of tombstones and oatmeal',
3
2
In reply to aln:
I know Craig rossie as I'm from that neck of the woods. Have eyed up that crag as potential many times but never got around to exploring it. Maybe it was a good thing I never did by they description!
I know Craig rossie as I'm from that neck of the woods. Have eyed up that crag as potential many times but never got around to exploring it. Maybe it was a good thing I never did by they description!
Post edited at 02:02
In reply to Blue Straggler:
Cold Climbs again........I've always thought John Barry's observations whilst climbing the Devils Appendix very good. He was a gifted writer. Not quite a route description however.
Cold Climbs again........I've always thought John Barry's observations whilst climbing the Devils Appendix very good. He was a gifted writer. Not quite a route description however.
1
In reply to Violinist:
Dan Bailey's description of 'The Claw' on the Exmoor coast from 'Ridges of England, Wales, and Ireland' is a good one. Starting with HVS (Huge Vertical Shrubbery) always tickles me...
Dan Bailey's description of 'The Claw' on the Exmoor coast from 'Ridges of England, Wales, and Ireland' is a good one. Starting with HVS (Huge Vertical Shrubbery) always tickles me...
2
In reply to jon:
Thats was part of the reason I never went to the Picos and still never been.
keith s
Thats was part of the reason I never went to the Picos and still never been.
keith s
In reply to MusicalMountaineer:
I climbed that one a year or so back. "Purgatorial" is roughly correct.
I climbed that one a year or so back. "Purgatorial" is roughly correct.
In reply to Violinist:
From the old "south devon & dartmoor" guide.
Window Slit 60' VD
For troglodytes and general deviants only. Start at the foot of the slanting slab of Tower Stairs. Climb the slab to gain a narrow cleft. Squirm up this, via an excruciating climax through a constricted hole, to pop out onto an arete which leads to the top. Lunatics descend the route headfirst!
From the old "south devon & dartmoor" guide.
Window Slit 60' VD
For troglodytes and general deviants only. Start at the foot of the slanting slab of Tower Stairs. Climb the slab to gain a narrow cleft. Squirm up this, via an excruciating climax through a constricted hole, to pop out onto an arete which leads to the top. Lunatics descend the route headfirst!
Post edited at 13:14
3
In reply to Violinist:
Crouching the Mahogany at Callerhues. The description starts with: "A short bastard but it's at ya straight away" and ends with "Now do as the name suggests."
Crouching the Mahogany at Callerhues. The description starts with: "A short bastard but it's at ya straight away" and ends with "Now do as the name suggests."
Post edited at 13:32
3
In reply to keith sanders:
The other Cantabrian mountains have much better weather and long quiet(ish) routes when the Picos are grim.
The other Cantabrian mountains have much better weather and long quiet(ish) routes when the Picos are grim.
In reply to Violinist:
Chainsaw Massacre HVS 5b
This route tackles the short, steep and ugly protrusion on the left hand side of the lower face of the 'eeny-meeny-miny' buttress. The PR mentioned in the guide is missing which is unfortunate because the available gear is less than inspiring and the rock mostly held in place by habit. The best way to tackle the crux is to downclimb, strip your gear, and move to a more sensible route. That said it is a must for locals who have done all the other HVSs at Chudleigh; it will remind you why you should stick to those routes.
Chainsaw Massacre HVS 5b
This route tackles the short, steep and ugly protrusion on the left hand side of the lower face of the 'eeny-meeny-miny' buttress. The PR mentioned in the guide is missing which is unfortunate because the available gear is less than inspiring and the rock mostly held in place by habit. The best way to tackle the crux is to downclimb, strip your gear, and move to a more sensible route. That said it is a must for locals who have done all the other HVSs at Chudleigh; it will remind you why you should stick to those routes.
4
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...
26 Apr
Loading Notifications...