UKC

Franco Cookson has climbed the 'magic scoop' project at Highcliffe Nab; a hard and highball line that heads up an off vertical arete and into a scoop. The contorted scoop at the top is 'friendly at its bottom right and wildly imposing at its top left.' Franco has said the line is harder than MYXOMOP (E9/8A), but potentially safer depending on how you fall.

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In reply to UKC News:

Flippin brilliant! That fall is out there. Interesting to see he was wearing a helmet. I recently watched a video of a young lass soloing Scallop (E7) without a helmet and thought it was a poor decision

In reply to Ramon Marin:

Ramon, you just wait to see Hard Sand - the falls Franco takes off Nothing Lasts are truly astounding. There really is something wrong with that boy...

Side note: well done Franco, looks ace

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

He does seem to be entirely composed of elastic bands.

In reply to UKC News:

That 'built ledge' looks interesting. I'm sure it was sturdy enough, but it looks like some badly stacked toothpicks from that high up.

In reply to UKC News:

It seems like pretty much every news story over the last few years about a hard first ascent in the UK has featured the phrase "I was pointed at the line by Franco" or words to that effect.
It's great to see he's saving some good lines for himself.

What an asset to the UK climbing scene!

In reply to SuperLee1985:

The Moors guys have been very open about the hard projects down there:
http://nymoorslist.wikifoundry.com/page/Projects

In reply to Lemony:

The advert that I got at the top on the page was for the US clothing firm: 'J Crew, New arrivals = New Gifts, Shop Our Gift Guide'.

In reply to UKC News:

Great stuff

In reply to UKC News:

Great-looking line

In reply to UKC News:

Good lad .. Almost a one pitch rock climb.

In reply to USBRIT:

Should have put some bolts in it and got the aid ladders out right?

In reply to USBRIT:


Just like some of yours on Shepards then.

In reply to webbo:

Sorry my comment was meant to be a compliment. By soloing a one pitch climb.Unlike most climbers these days that do not like risk.

In reply to dunnyg:

Your very welcome to try and free any sections I have bolted on first ascents of desert spires. Some hopes !!

In reply to USBRIT:

Thanks for the invite, probably a bit futuristic for me though! Looks like a good enough adventure going the way you did anyway. Maybe if you can get franco across the pond you can set him on them...

In reply to dunnyg:


This has such potential, at the very least introducing Ron Hills to America. Can someone step up and get the lad out of Cleveland and into Utah...?!

From "Hard Sand to "Big Sand"...

In reply to UKC News:

Awesome Franco, but for goodness sake don't give it a grade because you know what will happen...

In reply to UKC News:

Franco - nice one cous.

In reply to dunnyg:

A bit tough as I am now back in Borrowdale !

In reply to webbo:

Yes scruffy little climbs ..wonder how many would be led on sight these days with the gear we had in the 50's. Gym shoes,or hiking boots , four 1/4 inch slings ,two sizes of pitons,tieing in with a bowline, over the shoulder belays...hard hats not invented. A couple of FA examples .. "Conclusion" on sight ...single piton six feet above the crux....led in hiking boots "The Bludgeon" on sight .. No pro on first pitch ..second pitch only ONE piton to protect move into the slot below and to the right of the spike block... no protection from here to top > No sling on the spike as we thought a fall might pull it off.Pete Lockey fell off the crux second...hold snapped off.All our FA's on Falcon Crags done on sight ground up cleaning on the lead with the above gear .. We did find EBs in 1957/8 ..one and a half years after the Rock and Ice lads.. Yes we where the mad Borrowdale peggers..Not forgetting FA Post Mortem 1956 E4 5c on Eagle Crag ..on sight two pieces of pro . Have a nice day .

In reply to USBRIT:
Thanks Paul but I do know my Borrowdale history as most of my first trips to the Lakes were there. I even still have that black and white guide you did, the one with a picture of someone pegging on the front cover.

In reply to webbo:

Well if you gave a clue to your name and age instead of being anon I would not have wasted my time explaining the obvious. Mike Thompson put that photo on the cover of our Borrowdale guide book to attract attention ... it's in the Dolomites NOT Borrowdale! Up to know I was kind not to mention that Franco failed on Post Mortem .. but he is an honest lad and told me about his epic.. I do admire this lad he is one of the best of our modern climbers.