UKC

favorite Alpine Climbs?

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
D777M 01 Feb 2018

Hello! Long time follower, first time poster.

What are some of your favorite alpine climbs???  I was looking for some inspiration and ideas for some climbing next summer. Any thoughts on the Eiger Mittellegi ridge guided?

background- kind of a beginner. I've had guides on a few routes (Matterhorn, Mont Blanc, Grand Teton) and done some limited stuff without a guide (Rainier, Whitney, some lesser known US stuff in the Rockies and Cascades).

im not great at climbing but enjoy it.

I look forward to your responses. 

Lusk 01 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Charmoz - Grepon Traverse.
Unfortunately I didn't manage it in one go.
But both still worth it individually.

 Kid Spatula 02 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

I really enjoyed the Wiessmies traverse and the Nadelhorn NE ridge at the lower grades.

Mt Blanc Du Cheilon normal route is great, but I found it surprisingly hard. 

 iknowfear 02 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Blüemlisalp traverse. Difficulty is highly dependent on conditions 

 Iain Thow 02 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Another vote for the Weissmies and the Nadelhorn, and if you're in the Saastal then the Lagginhorn is good too.

Alternatively, the Ecrins has lots of good peaks with easyish routes on - the Coolidge Couloir on the Pelvoux, for instance, or the Agneaux, the Neige Cordier and the N flank of the Ecrins itself.

 OwenM 02 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Here's a few ideas,

Badile, North ridge.

Piz Bernina, Biancograt.

 

Pizzo d'Andolla, Portjengrat.

Zinal Rothorn, North ridge.

Weisshorn, North ridge.

 

A couple of grades harder then the others.

 

Grandes Jorasses, North-east, Hirondelles ridge.

 

    

 OwenM 02 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Just thought of another.

Fussstein, North Edge. In the Zillertal. 500m of lovely rock slabs IV with one pitch of V-. 

redsonja 03 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Grand Teton is a climb I really want to do.

Like others have said, The Weissmeiss  traverse is excellent, also Mt Blanc de Cheillon, but as Kid Spatula said, we found it quite hard, especially the first rocky ridge which was very loose in places. The summit ridge is fantastic though. Allalinhorn is nice and easy to start with and Lagginhorn we enjoyed too and it's not too hard.

 HansStuttgart 03 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Rothorngrat (South ridge Zinal Rothorn)

Lyskamm

Aig. du Rochefort

Grand Cornier Südgrat

Dent Blanche Normal

 jcw 03 Feb 2018
In reply to Kid Spatula:

Comforting to see two posters saying found MB de Cheilon normal route hard. We'd gone to do the N face but the weather was dubious and so faute de mieux did this. It was NOT. a doddle. And a couple of days later we returned and did the N Face. On the Z Rothorn I'd also recommend the Rothorngrat. Another suggestion for the Zermatt area is the Cresta Rey on the Dufourspitz (Monte Rosa). 

cb294 03 Feb 2018
In reply to jcw:

For an easier route, the traverse of the Parrotspitze on Monte Rosa is great. Lyskamm light, but with the better views (as you can see Lyskamm when it is not under your feet!).

 

CB

 LakesWinter 03 Feb 2018
In reply to Jettison:

Mont Pelvoux traverse, Zinal Rothorn N Ridge, Grosser Diamanstock E Ridge and Bluemlisalp traverse are probably the best ones I've done.

 Solaris 05 Feb 2018
In reply to D777M:

> background- kind of a beginner. I've had guides on a few routes...

> im not great at climbing but enjoy it.

There have been some really good, inspiring suggestions mentioned in previous posts but, given what you say about your experience and ability, I'd take them with a pinch of salt - at least initially.

Although there are people who've done the Walker Spur on their first trip to the Alps, they are few and very talented. For most of us, there's no shame in beginning at somewhere near the beginning and working up from there, partly because of the need to learn to negotiate alpine terrain safely and quickly, and partly because of the limited time we have to apply and consolidate what we're learning.

The voies normales on the Neige Cordier and on Les Agneaux in the Ecrins have been mentioned above and it is certainly a recommended area for learning the alpine ropes. However note that owing to changes to the glaciers and the routes are now graded considerably higher than in the AC guidebook. (F > ca. AD, iirc.)

The Saas valley is good too, but I'd suggest taking yourself up some easy snow plods in good conditions before doing the route on the Lagginhorn mentioned above. The summit slopes can be very icy, they are reasonably steep, and are very exposed, so they're not a place to be learning crampon technique. Stay safe, and have fun!

Edited to say I've just noticed that a lot of people in this thread are replying to someone named Jettison whose post I can't see and who seems to be different from the OP.

Post edited at 14:20
Burcu 05 Feb 2018
In reply to D777M:

 North face of Mt. Hood, North Couloir, Mt. Gilbert

 MG 05 Feb 2018
In reply to D777M:

> Any thoughts on the Eiger Mittellegi ridge guided?

How rich are you?  This would be ferociously expensive.  It is however an excellent route.  I'd recommend waiting until you are confident to do it unguided.

Northern Star 05 Feb 2018
In reply to D777M:

Portjengrat Traverse - Fantastic exposed ridge climbing with some epic views and lovely rock.

redsonja 06 Feb 2018
In reply to D777M:

If you fancy going to Austria then Grossglockner is super


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...