UKC

Charlie Woodburn gives us his top beginner's trad tips and in this video explains the importance of using the guidebook properly.

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In reply to UKC Articles:

And next week the lovely Mrs Harrison will let you play in the sand pit once you have written your name nicely three times. 

In reply to UKC Articles:

Oh FFS - next, Arc'teryx  will present a video featuring a sponsored climber telling you the best way to put on your climbing t-shirt. And then your socks - right, yes, one foot at a time and remember ... toes first. For gawds sake enough of this sponsored video stuff  that assumes we are idiots!

In reply to UKC Articles:

I think that those criticising are being a little short-sighted. Yes, perhaps it isn't quite right for you. And yes, there do seem to be a large number of sponsored instructional videos. But, just because you're 'better than it' doesn't mean it isn't useful for others.

I quote the description of the video verbatim: "We hope you find this series useful for learning basics...". Add to that the fact that the first words of the video are "Beginner's trad tips".

With those opening gambits I don't think there was ever a case for thinking it was going to be particularly high level. As such, why complain about it - it's only doing what it says on the tin, after all.

In reply to tjhare1:

I quite agree. Particularly the valuable insights such as "make sure you pick the right grade of route" - could easily go wrong there.

In reply to Chris_Mellor:

And just today Black Diamond produced a report discussing the 'best way to wear a chalkbag'

In reply to Chris_Mellor:

 To be fair, some of us are

In reply to GarethSL:

To be fair, you do see a lot of people with their chalk bag swinging around on a big karabiner.

In reply to Robert Durran:

True! Or worse, on one of those keyring karabiners! :^)

In reply to UKC Articles:

Using a guidebook used to be something of a dark art, particularly when they were all narrative description only. You had know all the descriptions used for rock architecture - gendarme, sentry box etc , find the reference routes on the crag, understand the grading system -what could E2 5b or HVS 5b mean? As well as be familiar with the verbal clues in the text - airy, exciting, with interest, with care.... Definitely an education needed for the uninitiated.

A hell of a lot easier with good, modern photo guides. Will look at the video later and reserve judgement 'til then. 

 

 

In reply to tjhare1:

I agree. When I first started we selected a climb from a lakes guide because it was described a serious route. Serious means good, right?  Later, at Huntsman's Leap I oriented myself using the tide line since the route I wanted started level with it on the topo.