UKC

Hi - I’ve got 7-8 climbing days in the Alps at the end of July, with a climbing partner who leads VS (I’m happy on harder stuff), plus we are both competent in mountain/glacial terrain.
The aim in that time is to do 2 or 3 medium to long mountain rock ridges/routes (grade V or below) and a mixed/snow peak (grade PD to AD range).
It’s a good while (20yrs) since I’ve been to the Alps (Chamonix, central Switzerland, Bernese Oberland, Dolomites), so I would really appreciate any suggestions folks have on a good area & route ideas for the trip. Bearing in mind it’s a short trip, so I’m thinking areas with more reliable weather, easier access, less moving around, etc. Preferably not Cham, since that will be the default choice if nothing else looks  as viable.

Thanks in advance

In reply to MattDTC:

Depends what you like but the following are quieter and I found excellent

Finsteraarhorn, Rimpfishhorn, Dent d'Herens from Italy.

In reply to MG:

Cheers for the suggestions, I'll have a look at those. Quieter is good, although I'm aware that the last week in July, quiet is a relative term!

In reply to MattDTC:

I kind of assumed you meant 4000m+ but I see you didn't say that.  There are many lower peaks that are at least as good and often deserted, particularly in Aosta (recommended).

In reply to MattDTC:

I've always found that the southern Alps have (in general) better weather. Maybe the Ecrins, based either at Ailefroide or la Berade ?

In reply to MattDTC:

It depends what you mean by long mountain routes. How long / high, trad or bolted? The Ecrins could be a good area as Doug suggested, based at Ailefroide or La Berarde (quieter). Tends to get better weather as it’s further south but as ever nothing is guaranteed, especially for a week long trip. 

In reply to Doug:

Cheers, I've only been cragging in Briancon valley, so not been up into the higher stuff yet. Forgot to say we're driving down, so the nearer the better.

In reply to Misha:

I was thinking rock routes in a day from the hut/bivi, so roughly around the 10 to 20 pitch range. Ending on a summit would be nice. Trad and/or bolted is fine.

In reply to Misha:

Just looking at La Berarde area - looks good.

In reply to MattDTC:

I am doing the same sort of trip after an 18 year Alpine  lay off in early July. I decided on Saas Grund. Not been there before which is main motivation. Its got some big easy peaks and lots of rock ridges eg Portengrat, Dri Hornli but loads of lesser known ones if you do the research. Try these forums and internet searches. 

Easy access via planes, trains, buses and cable cars. 

Hope you make a good choice and have a great time.

 

In reply to Heartinthe highlands:

Ha! A timely post, I was just looking at the Valais area (Arolla through to Saas Grund). Plenty to look into!

In reply to MattDTC: If you're driving you have the ability to visit a few different areas and cherry pick the best routes and weather - ideal! A couple of specific suggestions would be:

Salbitschijn (Switzerland) - a load of mega routes to go at here of varying grades and lengths on the most perfect alpine granite I've ever encountered. I've personally only done the Sudgrat (VS/HVS and 20 something pitches) in the area but would say it was the best rock route I've done anywhere - long, sustained, great moves on perfect rock, striking line - the list goes on. It's sportingly bolted with maybe 2-3 bolts a pitch, (which I got the impression were as much to show the way as anything given there's plenty of cracks) so a small trad rack is needed. Virtually every pitch would be a 2 or 3 star classic in it's own right on a single pitch crag. There's loads more to go at from the same hut and I'm psyched to get back sometime for more.

Dalmazzi Refuge (Courmayeur) - again lots of long rock routes (up to 22+ pitches) to pick from at a variety of grades on good rock. There's even an extensive free guide online if you do a quick google.

The Swiss Plaisir guides are pretty good for the kind of routes you are after and cover some limited areas outside of Switzerland (usually along the borders) too. Have fun - long rockaneering is definitely where its at for Alpine summer!

Cheers
Rob

In reply to Rob84:

Thanks for the suggestions, you're right about having a car, gives us mobility that I hadn't really considered. I'll have a look into the routes around Dalmazzi refuge. Salbitschijen has been on my 'to do' list for a while now, but probably not this time round.... but then again, if the weather is good... 

In reply to Rob84:

If anyone is interested, I think this is the online guide Rob mentioned;

http://www.rifugiodalmazzi.com/risorse/Climbing_at_Triolet_cirque.pdf