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The Moon vs Creeping Lemma

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If you had to chose one which would it be ?I am aspiring to E3.Have not climbed on this cliff.

 Stroppy 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

I can't talk about Creeping Lemma but The Moon was great. Intimidating but pretty steady climbing, if you stay on route...

 Tyler 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

The grades aren't wrong so the Moon is the harder of the two. I don't think the second pitch of the Moon was much easier than the first despite. The first pitch of CL is amazing, probably the best 5a pitch I can recall. Do CL first, if you feel comfortable do the Moon the next day. 

Post edited at 16:39
In reply to Tyler

Did you do the first pitch of The Sind as your start then?

 Matt Podd 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

Both amazing, but the Moon is better

 Bulls Crack 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Tyler:

You mean 2nd and 3rd pitches?  But agree!

 Jon Stewart 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

I think the grades are the wrong way round. The Moon has no hard moves (maybe one 5c move going up the groove of the second pitch, but it's well protected and on good rock, nothing strange) whereas CL goes distinctly weird and desperate to get onto the Moon belay. The Moon is way better, having an awesome final pitch, whereas CL wanders off into choss.

 Misha 31 Jul 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

The Moon is harder on the whole but CL possibly has harder cruxes. CL is certainly the weirder route of the two - a lot of sideways shuffling. Both great routes. 

 philhilo 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

Moon way better in my book. CL a bit unbalanced, hideously awkward crux, the rest very nice but nowhere near the same grade. 

In reply to Jones the teeth:

The Moon would also get my vote, but as a word of warning I did go majorly off-route whilst doing it as a young and impressionable climber - straying onto the 5c pitch of Me (E6 6a). In retrospect this is quite laughable (I've been back and have no idea what I was thinking), but it's worth being aware of - it's a very confusing cliff after all.

 The Grist 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Jones the teeth:

I would also chose the moon. I remember finding creeping lemma just as hard and more awkward.

Incidently the first time I did the moon I was rushing and set up the abseil in the wrong place. BY the time I realised I was 40 metres down the ab rope. Ended up abseiling into the sea and scrambling ashore. Do not be stupid like me.

 ianstevens 01 Aug 2018
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> The Moon would also get my vote, but as a word of warning I did go majorly off-route whilst doing it as a young and impressionable climber - straying onto the 5c pitch of Me (E6 6a). In retrospect this is quite laughable (I've been back and have no idea what I was thinking), but it's worth being aware of - it's a very confusing cliff after all.

I wouldn't worry, I managed to do exactly the same thing

In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

I remember seconding Mousetrap and thinking the very same Where do we go ?!


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