UKC

I'm off to Lundy soon and I'd love some recommendations for some crack climbs. 

Fingers, hands or wide. Any width and pretty much any grade welcome.

Pretty much all the corner climbs have cracks in them.
Anything with stars is a good start, if your looking in the book.

My personal selection:

VS The Black Hand & first pitch of road runner

HVS  American Beauty (not all cracks, but quite a few)

E1 Indy 500, Dark power,

E2 Destiny (easy to access, once the ab is found) & hobs Lane (an adventure), Redspeed

E3 Wolfman jack (though a fair bit of face climbing around a crack).

If you just want good holds, then the 2 E2s at montagu steps also are fun.

I hear Milky way, Jetset & bender are good crack basedchallenges but have not climbed them.

Didnt rate quatermass, but that might just have been me on the day.

Lundy is great, finding the climbs from above is half the challenge. A long ab rope and some imagination also help. 100m Ab will see you into Redspeed from the top of the slide, American beauty/ road to moscow, Black hand (though a number of ab ropes will help here) and I recall Hobs lane also needed some approach thoughts.

Road Runner (P1 only) (VS 4c) May only be VS but for someone who hates/is rubbish at crack, it was a real struggle- far harder than the the slabby E1/HVSs like Satan’s slip, American Beauty or Formula one.

Blimey, you must *really* hate cracks.

To the OP; Jetset and Bender are far more ‘cracky’ than the others you mention. Obviously Controlled Burning. I’ve heard there’s a good crack on Letters to the Editor, though I haven’t done it. The Serpent is a crack, though the hard bit isn’t long. Destiny, of course. Supernova apparently if you can manage hard E5.

jcm

Jetset - 'Seventy feet of mindless violence'.  My favourite description from the new routes book!

Only when they involve foot jamming - I blame it on a traumatic experience on Stonnis Crack (VS 4b) one February !