UKC

So I’ve climbing in five-tens for all of this century - reds, pinks, greens and for the past ten years, Blue Velcros. 

Most of my climbing is now indoors, including bouldering on the new style walls (volumes, toe hooks etc.). 

In the UK you have access to shops with lots of manufacturers and a range of options... I’m in Stralya, less options.

I’m after the thoughts of other (ahem) mature and experienced climbers, have you switched to the newer generation of shoes, toe patches, half soles etc.

cheers

LD

I was an Anasazi devotee for many years. More recently I got a pair of Scarpa Instinct VS - a proper modern shoe. They make the Anasazis feel awful in comparison and incredibly dated. Having said that, top climbers like Ned Feehally has climbed stunningly hard on the old Anasazis even while modern shoes have been available. I haven't tried the Anasazi Pro, which is a more modern version

The 510s will cater ya fine. Obviously the Anazasi Velcro Pro mentioned above could be a winner. But to be honest, I’d look for a slipper. I have used (in still have tweaked 510 purple quantums) 510s a lot, but since I know end up bouldering most of the time I’ve grown to love La Spo Speedters and Maverinks. Soft enough for all those box shuffles and Bar the nastiest of heelhooks they work like a champ, indoors and out. Heck, I’ve done most of the rope stuff in ’em.

I've got the pro. Bought it for training indoors but in the end it's been moved to outdoor as it's just too stiff for plastic compared to the usual Skwamas. I've not really tried it out too heavily yet outside but I reckon it'll actually be really good for limestone bouldering with the solid edge/toe patch and a far tighter heel than the regular Anasazi. 

I use whites still for trad/vertical bouldering but anything indoors/overhanging outdoors I moved to the Hiangle and now the UP Regulus.

The Regulus are great. Comfy, immense on small edges, good heel and toe patch, good enough on smears. Will be getting more use outside I think.

Anasazi pro is great for jamming/camming in cracks, loads of toe rubber.

Exactly what happened to me. The Adidas 5.10s are useless.

You could always try the shoes made by the designers that used to make shoes at 5:10 called Unparallel

https://www.unparallelsports.com/product-category/climbing/

Australia

Frontier Equipment Pty Ltd
391-393 Pacific Highway
Crows Nest NSW 2065, Austrailia

Thanks, yes, this was what I was thinking... so what you are telling me is that I NEED to go shopping??? 

LD

Yes, I insist 🙂. If the Anasazis felt right, the Scarpa Instinct VSs will fit beautifully. Give em a bit of time to break in and they will be amazing. 

Once again the hive mind of UKC has come through... bought some Scarpa VSRs they have been worn twice, and wow. Yes, they are new which is always nice, but so impressive on steep indoor boulder problems. I sized them tight so hopefully 1/3 to 1/2 size stretch. 

Thanks all for the input.

I tried them on Lime. Compared to Miuras they were a bit rubbish, so I sold them to a mate for €60. Amazed that Shauna wears these in comps.