UKC

Bouldering near Kinross - Ochils? Fife?

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 Joe Mackenzie 03 Jun 2020

Been bouldering indoors for many years, and have done sport and trad climbing outdoors before, but with climbing walls being closed for so long now am really beginning to miss bouldering. Bought a bouldering mat and have friends keen to climb too, but can't find much info on local climbs. Will go and look at Craigencat Quarry, Powmill Quarry, Limekilns and Ravenscraig after reading about them on UKC - can't help but think there must be loads of other boulders to go and climb locally though. Surely some decent boulders in the Lomonds or the Ochils?

 james1978 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

There's a good guidebook called                     " bouldering Scotland " which is worth a look. 👍

 girlymonkey 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

When you drive the B9097 from Crook of Devon to the M90, there is an outcrop on the cleish hills that I have wondered about before. It might well be chossy and horrible, no idea, but maybe worth an explore if you are bored. It's near to Cliesh

 crustypunkuk 03 Jun 2020
In reply to girlymonkey:

It is very chossy, very loose and distinctly unpleasant. Much the same as the wee crags on the side of the Bishop.

 Robert Durran 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

> Surely some decent boulders in the Lomonds or the Ochils?

Not really. 

 Rob N 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

I haven’t found anything worthwhile either.

I’m waiting for the travel restrictions to loosen up before I can drive as far as Dunkeld.

There is a place in Blairadam wood called Craigencat Quarry. I haven’t been to it but there’s two pics in the logbooks.

Seems like the access issues at limekilns are  back too.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/theEUMC/permalink/10159298913201808/

Post edited at 09:43
 GGD 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

Consider heading down to Wolf Crag Quarry near Bridge of Allan. Excellent spread of problems (3-7B) in the low to mid grades (~90), on good rock. New topo came out recently as well so easy to find your way around. 

 fuzzysheep01 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

Lived near Kinross for a while and explored the nearest bits of rock quite a bit.

Ravenscraig is okay, though it's more of a 'go to the beach and play around on the rocks' kind of venue, rather than a class bouldering venue. A lot of the sandstone holds are pretty eroded and the level of the ground changes quite a bit (last time I went the ground was about a foot higher than in the photos I'd seen).

Wolfcrag is your best bet - lots of good stuff there, and countless eliminates. Obviously a bit further out the way though.

All the stuff in the Lomonds I explored was pretty chossy, and wouldn't really lend itself to bouldering - more chossy VS cracks.

Craiglug in Fife is okay - a few wee boulder problems, and some short easy solos if you're into that. Probably not worth more than an afternoon though, and no hard routes.

Obviously north of Perth up the A9 and out towards Stirling there are quite a few options - Dunkeld, Camby etc. but probably a bit far away for what you're looking for.

Limekilns is okay for traversing / solos and the odd slightly contrived boulder problem, but it sounds like access is problematic there at the moment, so best avoided. 

Never explored Powmill, though from what I've heard it's all very small and a bit disappointing. Probably worth at least checking out though, as it's pretty close to Kinross. Likewise with Craigencat - never been, but is dead close and probably worth scoping out.

You could probably take a pad to Rosyth Quarry and do some traversing / boulder out some starts and make up some eliminates if you were really desperate, though the place might be a bit full of airguns/bottles/neds etc. at the moment with the schools off.

Post edited at 13:33
 petegunn 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Rob N:

Could probably due with updating the crag database with this re.  Limekilns access.

 girlymonkey 03 Jun 2020
In reply to crustypunkuk:

Fair enough, that doesn't really surprise me! 

 andrew ogilvie 03 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

On the old scottish climbs pages I'm sure there was mention of  bouldering at Kinnieston which must be in that area and also a place they called "font-forth" near Airth and I've an even vaguer memory of having read about bouldering near the base of Kinnoull Hill .
If you search on the ukc logbooks find crags feature there are actually more than 20 crags noted within 50km of Kinross.
 

 aln 04 Jun 2020
In reply to fuzzysheep01:

> take a pad to Rosyth Quarry and do some traversing / boulder out some starts and make up some eliminates if you were really desperate, though the place might be a bit full of airguns/bottles/neds etc. at the moment with the schools off.

I was there on Sunday. No-one there and not much litter, but more overgrown than the last time I was there a few years ago. Very green and sunny, and quite pleasant. A lot of the rock is very sandy though, no doubt due to lack of traffic, and the top of the descent route is starting to be reclaimed by bramble and gorse. 

 aln 04 Jun 2020
In reply to andrew ogilvie:

> bouldering at Kinnieston which must be in that area and also a place they called "font-forth" near Airth

The old Lowland Outcrops guide mentions Kinnieston. "lots of extended boulder problems and short routes of all grades up to 6b", map ref 194 023.

Fontforth - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/fontforth-3703

OP Joe Mackenzie 07 Jun 2020
In reply to girlymonkey:

Yes I've seen that often too! Wondered whether it would be any good for trad, but can't see many obvious anchors for a belay at the top!

OP Joe Mackenzie 07 Jun 2020
In reply to Rob N:

Thanks - went up to Craigencat yesterday and enjoyed it - pretty overgrown and the red crag is a bit sandy/covered in lichen, but had a good time overall and will head back up there again

OP Joe Mackenzie 07 Jun 2020
In reply to fuzzysheep01:

Thanks - enjoyed Craigencat yesterday - nice that it is so close, also went along to have a look at Powill, as you say the boulders look quite small and there is a disappointing amount of rubbish strewn everywhere, but will go back with the mat and have a go at some point. Wolfcrag and Craiglug sound worth a trip out (although of course much more than 5 miles away...)

 GGD 08 Jun 2020
In reply to Joe Mackenzie:

I'd rank Wolfcrag quite a longway above Craiglug. It's the best venue in the central belt for those climbing under 6C+/V5.

It has 80 problems under 6C+/V5, 45 of which are in the 5-6A/V1-V3 range.

Post edited at 23:43

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