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ARTICLE: Cloggy - Black Cliffs and Silver Linings

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 UKC Articles 09 Mar 2022

Seán Fortune writes about his first steps on one of the UK's most intimidating crags: Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, affectionately known as Cloggy, in North Wales... 

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 profitofdoom 09 Mar 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article, thanks. Really describes the cliff, and the experience, well

I did many great routes there. I haven't climbed on Cloggy for a while, but I still think about Cloggy every single day 

Post edited at 16:56
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 09 Mar 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

We once left Sheffield early, drove over to Wales, walked up to Cloggy with food and gear for a few days, climbed Troach and Great Wall, went down to sort the gear out when the rain started, walked back to the car and drove back to Sheffield - big day out!

Chris

 Mick Ward 09 Mar 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

Lovely route, Silhouette. 

Cloggy... the Holy Grail of British climbing.

Mick 

 profitofdoom 09 Mar 2022
In reply to Chris Craggs:

> We once left Sheffield early, drove over to Wales, walked up to Cloggy with food and gear for a few days, climbed Troach and Great Wall, went down to sort the gear out when the rain started, walked back to the car and drove back to Sheffield - big day out!

> Chris

Sheffield to Cloggy is at least 5 hours each way, let's say 6! So you had 10-12 hours of travel PLUS Troach, and Great Wall?? That is one very very very long and great day (believe me, I am not in the tiniest bit making fun of you.... I love epic long days out, and have had a few). When did you arrive home? It must have been 3 AM (which I did once, after an epic in North Wales)

 Sean Kelly 10 Mar 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

You never forget your first experience of climbing on this great cliff. It has that sort of effect. I can't recall any other cliff that feels that intimidating on first acquaintance,  possibly Gogarth Main Cliff. But as you gradually traverse underneath the crag there is this overpowering ominous presence. It doesn't matter what route you select  or the grade you climb, this feeling is still there. Slowly as you get to know the place  it acquires an attraction and finally an irresistible lure that has to be satisfied. My last route here about 3 years back and over 50 since my first visit, was Great/Bow link up, and it remains my best mountain experience in recent times.

 dominic o 11 Mar 2022
In reply to UKC Articles:

Great article - really evocative! My favourite line is: "As we split off onto the grassy side trail leading down into the cwm, the bustle of the busy Snowdon track quickly fades and the silent spell of Cloggy grows." That path junction is a special place for me, with the subliminal signpost that says: "Ordinary people keep left - only the chosen ones should proceed beyond this point

 jon 11 Mar 2022
In reply to Mick Ward:

> Lovely route, Silhouette. 

> Cloggy... the Holy Grail of British climbing.

> Mick 

I remember Big Jim coming into the cottage, very excited. He'd found a new line on Cloggy, but more importantly he'd already got a name for it - how often that used to be the case! It was a parallel line to Silhouette... and was to be called Pirouette. Sadly JR got there before us and even more sadly called it The Organ Flagellator.

 Mick Ward 11 Mar 2022
In reply to jon:

Oh, Silhouette to Pirouette - how lovely.

The Organ Flagellator... how strikingly unlovely. 

Mick 

1
In reply to UKC Articles:

Thanks for the artical. A first trip to Cloggy was always memorable

( I  climbed Piggots and White Slab in 1972 with Arnis Strapcans ). In those days you could drive some way up if you were in the know,  and 'Ride the Rods' back down. I'm not sure I would compare it to Fair Head though!

I would love to have a chat with Sean sometime if he lives in Northern Ireland 


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