UKC

Was over in Costa Blanca last weekend and jumped on L'Espill o Llibre (6b) at Guadalest.

We were flying out that day, it was literally the last route we were doing before jumping on the plane and coming home, I was pretty knackered after several days of climbing so I was just looking for a quick easy romp up a 6a+ and this is described in the Rockfax guide as "cracker", so this fit this bill perfectly.

Big mistake!  Felt nothing like the pleasant 6a+ I was expecting, much more like an actually quite cruxy 6b to 6b+.....  

I come home utterly dejected at having a mare on a route I feel ought to be well within my grade, take a look it on here and see Beta saying the FA says it's 6b/+ and all the votes put it at at least 6b.

Clearly the book has the wrong grade in, and there's nowt that can be done about that now, but  one of the crag mods could alter the grade on the database?

Also, just to make you aware a new route has appeared between this and Cariat de Güelo (6b+).  No idea of the name or grade (nothing painted on the rock), thinking I was on L'Espill I climbed the first couple of clips and it felt pretty tough (to me), I'd guess 6c/+ but no idea.  Might be worth putting it on the database as an unknown route just to prevent others from making the same mistake I did!

I remember being caught out by that one too.

Also, Mare Mevia on the Everest boulder (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/guadalest-3474/mare_mevia-243798) is at least 7a+ and not 6b.

Yeah I was more than a little surprised!

I've emailed one of the crag mods.  Hopefully they'll amend, I see from the logs at least one person has done themselves a pulley injury on Mare Mevia.  That's an even worse sandbag than the one I got on...

Don't think crag moderators are able to edit the climbs that are in Rockfax guides, which is sometimes frustrating, especially when there's a newer more definitive guide for an area. Though I can understand why they've done it. There is a 'submit guidebook correction' button on the climb page, which might be the best way to get the correction recorded for next time Rockfax review the data, even if it won't get an immediate response.

Ah ok, thanks for your help!

Yep, we thought L'Espill o Llibre was 6b+ too.

That's a relief!

Probably a fun and absorbing route, just happened to be not what I was looking for at the time!

If anyone's had a go on the unnamed route I'd love to hear their thoughts on that, seemed very challenging for someone of my modest ability.  Was a bit intimidated by it to be honest!