UKC

Whenever I read an article or trip report about multipitch trad in Val di Mello, the same 4-5 routes always come up: Kundalini, Luna nascente, Oceano and maybe one or two more. Which got me wondering: is that all there is when it comes to gear-protected routes? I don't care much for the mega slab routes, so is there enough there to warrant a one week trip focused on climbing cracks, or should I just go back to Orco?

I guess the Solo Granito guidebook may answer this question but if the layout is anything like the Orco one it may not be very indicative of what you'll actually find.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

I went in the autumn with the Solo Granito book wondering the same thing. You have to work hard with that guidebook, especially if you don't read Italian.

I spent only a week so there may be more I'm not aware of, but I think the answer to your question is yes and no.

Those are not all there is when it comes to gear protected routes, there are plenty more, but as far as I can tell, not all that many are cracks. Bold slab climbing is the dominant theme. However if you're only going for one week, those classics will keep you happy. Luna in particular is worth its reputation and exceptionally good.

A couple of short cracky things near the valley floor:

La Signora del Tempo (7b), La Crepa Del Bamba (6b)

And this got my attention, but I didn't get around to doing it (needs big cams apparently):

Lavorare con lentezza (7b)

The crux pitch of Magic Line (7b+) is a crack, but there are a lot of slab pitches to get to it.

Thanks for your input. I'm sure Luna ans the other classics are every bit as good as everybody says, I guess I just want to make sure there are more options in case these classics are overcrowded. Oracoli and Polimago also look great.

Do you know if the Solo Granito guidebook is comprehensive enough or is the Val di Mello one better? It seems like I can only find the German edition of the latter and I feel like I might understand an Italian guidebook better seeing as I speak French and Spanish.

Sorry to hijack your thread, but do you rate Orco highly? I’m thinking particularly for crack climbing. And is there more to do than the SG guidebook suggests? 

Unless solo granito has been republished since the mid 00's you should pack a massive pinch of salt! Lovely place and loads of rock, just not always especially well described! 

Jk

I really like Orco. I suppose if you grew up in the US you might be a tad underwhelmed - the "little Yosemite" thing is a bit exaggerated, Orco really pales in comparison in terms of scale (disclaimer: in the US I've only climbed 10 days at Indian Creek and Red Rocks). But rock quality is excellent, there's enough brilliant crack lines to keep you busy for at least a couple of weeks and the setting is lovely, plus if you're staying at the campground you can just walk to several of the major crags which is pleasantly convenient. I've been twice and I'll probably be going back in May.

For crack climbing in Europe it's my go-to destination with Annot. I've yet to go to Bohuslän or Corsica, and there's this "bigger Annot" being developed in SE France...

Sorry, I made a mistake there - Solo Granito is all the higher alpine stuff around Val di Mello, not the valley routes. Val di Mello, also published by Versante Sud, is the book I meant.

If you want to climb cracks in northern Italy, aren't Cadarese and Yosesigo the places to go?

I'm not familiar with Oracoli but it's worth knowing that Polimago looks to have a colossal sideways runout to join the top of Luna, and I was told by a couple of Milanese climbers that that's not even the scary bit (?!)

It's a fair concern about potential crowds. We linked Kundalini and Luna, starting climbing at first light which put us well ahead of anyone on the former and well behind anyone on the latter. I don't think Oceano gets quite as busy.

Now, tell us more as this sounds promising !

Yeah I've seen pictures of the traverse on Polimago, it does look 'interesting'!

Cadarese and Yosesigo do look great, my only complaint is that it's all single pitch (I think?) and I'm more interested in multipitch or a mix of both.

Il vall’Orco is really fantastic. Lots to do, pretty cool lines and it’s a quiet place. Been there twice and I could go back a third. 
the classic guidebook isn’t that easy to use… and I speak Italian.

Annot is also great! Different rock though. The guidebook also needs some getting used to… and I have been 3 times and speak French.

edit: spell corrector changed annot to annoy!!!

Some info here http://tradlatour.over-blog.com/ and in there https://www.vertical-magazine.com/mag-vertical-71-fev-mars-avril-2019

We bumped into Lionel in Oct 2021 and he said "yeah we have to get round to finishing the guidebook". In May last year we met some climbers in Orco who'd recently bumped into him and he said the same thing apparently so don't be in a rush 😀 But it looks amazing.

Edit: yeah the Versante Sud guidebook to Orco is meh but the newer 100 crack climbs or something like that is pretty good and much better written, in combination they're very useable (and only the second will get you efficiently to Sitting bull!).

I think you're right about Cadarese and Yosesigo being mostly single pitch.

I haven't been to Orco and wasn't aware of the newer crack climbs book, so thanks for that. Sounds like my cup of tea.

As someone who like you is fond of multi-pitch cracks and not slabs, I would still say Val di Mello is worth a visit at some point, if only because it's incredibly beautiful. Having been in October and still felt pretty warm at times in the sun, I'm not sure I'd go any closer to the summer peak than that (imagine it's totally rammed with tourists in the holidays too), but then I am totally allergic to climbing in heat.

I thought orco was great. I've no idea what the SG guide is like but the Orco one itself seemed fairly useable.

Are you set on having a fixed destination? I say this because there's reams of incredible crack multipitches in the Alps which you could tour around for a week or three and have an incredible time. To start with I'd recommend the following: 

Sännetuntschi 6c+ 290m 10p (https://tinyurl.com/4d4vjbxs) 

Conquest (VIII+) 

Pumprisse (VII)

Tschechenplatte (VIII-)

Locker vom Hocker (VIII-) (although the crux pitch is a slab) 

There's loads more and you might have to climb the occasional slab or wall between cracks but generally I'd say it's worth it! 

I tend to favour staying in one place for several days yes. Conquest does look incredible though, P6 and P7 are stunning, thanks for the tip! Ditto with Sännetuntschi. Although I'm more looking for ideas for the shoulder seasons, in summer I'm happy sticking to Cham as I can just take the train from Font which is so convenient.

The limestone suggestions do not appeal quite as much; I'm sure they're great but for trad I'm more comfortable on granite or sandstone! (Ula or L'Estamporanée are nevertheless on my to-do list)

Thanks for the encouragement, definitely looks worth a visit sometime. 
 

I got the Ossola Crack guide for Yosesigo and Cadarese but haven’t yet been, looks amazing, but as you say only single pitch. 

Do you know if Conquest has been re-equipped Mischa? IIRC the Schweiz guide states that the bolts were in a bad state.

Orco is ace. There's a 100 selected cracks guidebook for Orco now and it's excellent and in English  ( https://www.freytagberndt.com/de/orco-100-selected-crack-climbs.html) Some more multipitch further up the valley that's quite under the radar which is in the book. Diedro Nanchez (6b) is superb. Otherwise the place is littered with enough routes to feel like you've had the shit kicked out of you after a day or so. 

Enjoy

+1 for Orco, I think while its a bit smaller, the actual quality of rock and climbing is better there, and more predominantly crack systems. Been a couple of times a little out of season and the conditons have been fine, nice and fresh. And you get to follow some proper history : Fessura Kosterlitz (f6B) - the first true jamming crack in the alps and still a test-piece, and Pesce d'Aprile (5c) - the first nut-protected route in Europe.

 A bit harsh regarding Polimago. We did it to avoid a logjam on Luna. Excellent route.

Vague memories of some off width which felt OK in spite of not having any wide gear. The traverse is unprotected but easy climbing.

Another must do route. If you only have time for one route in Mello do Oceano.

They also thought we were crazy for climbing on Monte Qualido on our first visit to Mello, guess you've always got to treat these things with a pinch of salt.

Not sure about that but I know people who did it last year who didn't mention anything. 

You could always do a quick few routes on the Sasso Romeno (?) boulder in the morning, hike up to the Gianneti Hut in the afternoon and then next day do the S Ridge Integral of the Cengalo and be down in the valley for beers or wine in the afternoon!

I haven't been to Mello, but another +1 for Orco. Make sure to bring big cams and do Fessura della Disperazione (P1) (5c)

(the full route, not just P1)