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Trad quickdraws for sport climbing

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 Kangaroojump 13 Mar 2023

Can I use trad quickdraws for sport climbing?

Why / why not?

 jezb1 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

Yes you can.

Nice lightweight trad draws can get a bit chewed up from the bolt hangers, often aren’t quite as nice to clip and aren’t as comfy for grabbing when dogging route.

 Matttait 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

I use pretty trad-y draws for sport climbing with no issues. I've heard people like sport draws because the dog bone is stiffer, so when you are putting up a challenging route you have a bit more reach to get the draw into the bolt

Interested to hear any other info

 olddirtydoggy 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

If you mean the wiregates then you're good to go. Solid gates with the thicker link are supposed to be a bit easier to handle if you're pushing the numbers a bit but I'd say you're good to go. I doubt you'd need the longer quickdraws on sport. Sport's not really my game but my wife has used our wiregates a few times, still here.

 Jimbo C 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

Yes, but I use separate trad draws for sport and trad draws for trad. The krab that gets chewed up on bolt hangers could chew up a sling on trad gear.

 ebdon 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

Nowt wrong with trad draws for sport, although they may wear out quicker as most people's sport climbing sees a lot more falls, lowering and what not than trad. However,  I find if you are working a route, clipsticking, hauling on draws etc... beefy sport draws will make your life considerably easier. 

Post edited at 21:41
 tehmarks 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

Yes, and they're not even really that much less convenient to grab if you have a moral panic on the onsight. The major advantage of having sport-oriented quickdraws for sport, in my humble opinion, is that curved gates on the rope end are a lot nicer to clip quickly.

 Ciro 13 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

They'll be fine as long as you're not into long projects on steep routes. Leaving them up for weeks on a popular steep route will wear them out pretty quickly.

 TobyA 14 Mar 2023
In reply to olddirtydoggy:

> If you mean the wiregates then you're good to go. 

This isn't completely true, some expansion bolts with bent plate hanger have been known to catch the noses or wiregates on wiregate krabs leading to them snapping in falls. Not common but has and does happen. https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/what-is-nose-hooking-...

Post edited at 00:20
 MischaHY 14 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

The best option for this is the Petzl Ange - it's clean nose, seems to avoid getting chewed up by the bolt and has a fat sling which is easy to pull on whilst working moves. Some people seem to find them slightly weird to clip but personally I find it fine and enjoy saving close to a kilogram on long onsights! 

2
 andyb211 16 Mar 2023
In reply to jezb1:

Yep, comfort when dogging is a must!

 jezb1 16 Mar 2023
In reply to andyb211:

> Yep, comfort when dogging is a must!

😂

 RBonney 16 Mar 2023
In reply to TobyA:

You can get smooth nose wire gated snapgates. So it's not the wire gate that's this issue, it's whether or not it's hooked nosed or not. 

 TobyA 16 Mar 2023
In reply to RBonney:

Sure - but lots aren't. So it's just something that people need to be aware of.

2
 HeMa 16 Mar 2023
In reply to RBonney:

The wire snagging on the bolt is irrelevant of clean nose or not.

not that it is that common, but still it can happen

 PaulJepson 16 Mar 2023
In reply to Kangaroojump:

Trad draws can be easier to back-clip as they tend to flop however they feel like on the rock, which isnt always the right way.

This doesn't really matter so much though, as the floppyness tends to mean that backclipping doesn't matter as much. 

1

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