UKC

I'm thinking of doing a trip to Norway in 2025, likely summer (depending on partners, either June or July). Just looking for some advice. I prefer multi-pitch, preferably gear but that's not a requirement. Thinking of maybe two weeks. One partner climbs pretty hard (5.11ish - 6a/6b UK), but the other is coming off achilles surgery this year and who knows how strong he'll be next year. He normally gets up around 5.9ish (4c/5b). I'm in between, depending on the terrain.

I feel that Lofoten is too far away / too expensive (though flights aren't bad - accommodation is nutbag expensive, though). But man, if there are any long routes, that's where it's at, right? Flights aren't so bad into Narvick.

Setesdal seems OK, as does Romsdal, though the latter is probably too far, as well. Can't really tell how much multi-pitch is here, but I gather Romsdal has quite a bit. Setesdal seems to be a winner so far.

Also thinking of Stavanger and Kristiansand (the latter, I know someone there, so that's a plus, but that's also a reason to not go - she's not a climber...and crazy). Stavanger isn't that far fro Setesdal, too.

I'm a little overwhelmed looking at all the options, and damn, it's expensive. I feel I'd need three people just to afford a decent camper van to make costs go down, but is it worth it with the price of gas (petrol)? It seems hotels or other fixed accommodation aren't that much cheaper, and we'd likely need car if we want to explore.

Also, it rains a lot in Norway right? I'm thinking two weeks just in case one week gets washed out. Good plan or am I thinking too much?

This would be a big trip for me, particularly cost-wise. I'm non wealthy, and neither are my partners, but it's the sort of thing that if we plan right we could make it work.

Any advice from those who have been there / done that?

In reply to pkasco: Travelling from the US? Some thoughts on my limited experience of living here 20+ years

1. It's a big place. If you've 2 weeks, and go those places,  you won't have so many days climbing. Pick north or south

2. I always assume terrible weather in July with much rain.  You might get lucky, you might not. Last year in July here you'd do zero days in the entire month outside.  June is much likely to be better, although I've been snowed on (several inches) in July in Lofoten

3. Setesdal is mostly very dull slab shuffling till you get into 5.11 land. Good weather tho' away from the coast.

4. Stavanger/Ksand have decent sport, as much trad as you want and super bouldering but not much multipitch

Yes it's expensive, but it can be made a lot cheaper if you know what you're doing, especially accom.  You're thinking of renting a camper?

In reply to pkasco:

Almost spat my tea reading this...

If you want to do Romsdal on a budget, fly to Trondheim, take the bus or train to the city, train to Dombås then the Raumabanen train to Åndalsnes. There you can hike to a local campsite/ wild camp by the river near Hornaksla spend a few days warming up there there then take a taxi/hitchhike round to Venjesdalen and wild camp under the classics on Romsdalshorn, Store Venjetind or Kvanndalstind.

There is a new sport climbing guidebook out as well covering the entire area if you want to sample the local cragging.

In reply to wbo2:

Two of us would be coming from the US, but one is from Germany.

Yeah, if we'd choose a place, it'd be that one place, except for maybe Setesdal and Stavanger, which aren't that far apart. I could see us doing both.

Depending on the partner, I think July is it. One of the partners is a teacher in Germany, and he's probably the one who has the most travel flexibility in the summer. The other owns a guiding company out in Colorado and his work tends to pick up in summer, though July can be a good month to get away due to it sometimes being too hot, but that's a big "if". Of course, we'd plan this well in advance, so...

So I read that about Setesdal, and I'm not flying all that way just to do slab. There's plenty of that where I'm currently living. I had also read that Setesdal is in a rain shadow, so that it gets less rain. But still, thanks for the confirmation.

As for the camper, I was thinking that'd be the cheaper option. Give us a good, dry place to be when it rains and it would allow us to cook rather than eat out. Plus, it helps with some flexibility. Having said that, these things rarely work out the way you think they should.

With regards to accommodation, are you suggesting hostels and the like are better? Or are there better options? I've camped before at a lot of places. I just don't know if I want to pack all that shit on the plane and carry it around. It's already about 15-hours of traveling door-to-door. Plus, I'm pretty sure stoves / canisters are different in the EU than in the US, so we'd have to buy something. Maybe my German friend has one, but I don't think so. AirBnB is damn expensive.

In reply to GarethSL:

Thanks. I hadn't thought of flying into Trodheim. Prices aren't that bad honestly, and it's not that far from Romsdal. Thanks for that.

As for the multi-pitch comment, yeah, sorry, should have been more clear. I'm looking really for just rock, not mountaineering. I know, Troll Wall and all that. Without buying the guidebook, it's tough to see what's really there. Most of the online sites have limited information.

In reply to pkasco:

Just found this: trade guidebook for the Stavanger area (Rogaland): https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9NwzGWydmVYYjAyNDBmMGUtYzk5ZS00YmE2LWE2ZD...

In reply to pkasco:

And the crag has some really good info. This is from Stavanger, too: https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/norway/stavanger

In reply to wbo2:

I've never had a terrible weather in the Arctic, sometimes in July sometimes in August - I've done I think four week-long trips different years, from Lofoten in the West to Kvaløya, Tromsø Fastland and Lyngen in the East. Maybe I'm just very lucky but I was told Skibotn is the sunniest place in Norway! Friends have been to Lofoten in June though and did a lot of shivering, which figures as I've ski toured with snow to the sea in Lyngen in May.

In reply to TobyA:

Have you done anything in Rogaland / Stavanger? What's the weather like there?

In reply to pkasco:

All Norwegian campsites have wooden cabins for rent, basic to pretty smart and a covered/indoor cooking area, so camping gear isn't really needed. Prices are relatively reasonable - for Norway!!

July is peak season, everywhere will be pretty busy,

Chris

In reply to pkasco:

Lived in Norway for ten years now, so here's some thoughts from me. Just book a flight to Oslo, else Bergen, and work the rest out when you arrive. Don't need any more advance planning than that unless flying to the north. Check the weather and go where it looks best.

Probably rains a lot more compared to parts of the US but it depends where you're talking about. It's much drier inland than the coast. Parts of last summer were a washout. Just depends on the year. 

Problem you're going to have during June/July is that it's hotter than ideal in many places. A lot of the climbing is on granite, or rock that needs good friction and you're unlikely to get that then. Add to that mosquitos or midges in some places. I usually try to climb in the mountains in the months you say where it's more pleasant. Might be an argument for going north if you don't want better temperatures without mountains. Lofoten is beautiful, although a lot more popular than it once was. I'd try and avoid July as will be much busier than June. 

Forget Kristiansand if thinking multipitch. It's nearly all single pitch.

Better places than Setesdal, unless you're into bolted friction slabs. Even then a couple of days will probably be enough.

You should look at Uskedalen. Some awesome trad climbing there, although I think you'll need to wait until the afternoons to climb when in the shade. Some good multipitch around Bergen and Stavanger as well, although I haven't done any personally in the latter.

I like Hemsedal but think your climbing wad friend might be struggling to find enough hard routes there. 

Think a hire car is going to be your main expense. You can wild camp in a lot of places, but not around inhabilited or farmed areas.

In reply to Mr. Lee:

Thanks, that's excellent advice.

So you think it won't be a problem finding accommodation in July without reservations? I know you said wild camping is reasonably easy to do, but if it's raining a lot it'd be nice to crash somewhere with a hot shower.

I did see some campgrounds at $35/night for a cabin. Not sure how realistic that is in July.

In reply to pkasco:

I've not. I've spent quite a few weeks in Norway over the last 25 years but always in the Arctic. It must be over a couple of months altogether, but beyond transiting through the airport I've still never been to Oslo!

In reply to pkasco: Looks like the crag have been scavenging other sites for data on Norway. 

This is the definitive guide  - www.brattelinjer.no for routes, and is getting updated with trad.  This is for boulders www.buldreinfo.no .

This is best for weather yr.no.  Be very wary of the wind measurements - they don't use gust speed, the use the baseline unlike many others so compared to 10m/sec in the UK it would feel very windy.

AirBnB isn't used much in Norway - you want to look at this - https://www.finn.no/reise/feriehus-hytteutleie/

Or for stuff in general on finn.no.  It's in Norwegian, never seen english version but it's not tricky

Uskedalen is very good and glad someone added that, but a bit chilly in my experience.  Again, in July tho' I'd expect some rain on the W coast side. 

In reply to pkasco:

I would imagine it would be OK, although I tend to just use my tent throughout the summer without much thought, so not an expert. The cheapest cabins will be the ones on the campsites, which are usually around the 600kr mark. 

In reply to pkasco:

We go to Norway every winter (flying tomorrow) - but still hope this might be of some use. 

Yes, Norway is expensive but the kroner is bizarrely weak at least a/g the £ and car hire is now not much more than in mainland Europe. 

Tips on costs? Research the cheaper supermarkets before you go. Accept you will eat basic food whilst you're there, bring stuff from home if you can. Have a targeted raid on the incoming duty free shop in the airport and max out your alcohol allowance - to minimise buying alcohol in country. Weaker beer seems ok in the supermarkets tho. Just don't eat or drink out. And don't break the speed limits and get bankrupted by the fines.

The DNT and private lodges in the mountains are superb; whilst the staffed lodges are expensive, the non staffed ones can be cheap. Like nearly everything, prices are online and researchable. 

Fwiw, I think Switzerland is more expensive. 

It's a big and v varied country with notable weather differences, eg Rondane seems much sunnier and more settled than the Hardangervidda - which isn't that far away but nearer the sea.

In reply to pkasco:

As many have already said, Norway is a vast country, and driving from South to Norway will take ages...

So instead either go north, or stay south. But most importantly, be flexible...

For North, as you said Lofoten offers the easiest option, with a lot of climbing to be done at you're grades (if you're used to granite cracks, 5.9 is about Norwegian 6 or 6-). And since Lofoten sticks quite far out to the sea... often if the mainland is gettin' soaked, Lofoten often is sunny. Also the other way around. The only problem these days there is, that in most of Lofoten, wild camping nor forbidden. But camping grounds aren't that bad. E.g. Skårungen is about 450 NOK per night for a tent and 3 persons. The showers are free, they have a kitchen to cook and also some indoors common space. A lot of the other campsites are the same. If you can get there in June, it might be colder but also less crowded.

On the mainland side, close to Stetind, wild camping is again an option and in fact Eidetinden and a lot of other stuff to climb there. And if push comes to shove, a days drive northwards will get you to Kvalöya, where there is actually a rather nice climbers cabin up, so making the mornings to get up to the climbs a lot easier/quicker.


For south, the big names are Setedal, Nissedal, Uskedalen and Romsdal... but the whole Norway is pretty much on big ass chain of mountains. So you have a lot to climb there, but sometimes finding the topo might be the crux of the things. As for the North, weather can be iffy, but driving for half a day or a full one, often get's you in the clear. Naturally for that, you will want to have a car. One possible good option, is to have your friend from Germany drive there (if he has a car... or can get one). Stocked with food and also alcohol (just keep an eye on the customs limitation... Norway is not in the EU and thus you are not actually allowed to bring a lot of alcohol there). And naturally pick you guys up from Gardamoen (or Oslo). Depending on the weather, you could then head where it seems good.... and you could even revert back to Sweden and Bohuslan, while it is mostly single pitch, it is fabulous single pitch granite trad. Note wild camping is also forbidden in majority of Bohuslan, but there are a few cheap options (climbers hut ... also "Häller camping").


Note, pretty much all of the Norway multipitch routes are to an extent on the slabby side (some exceptions exist, but in general this is true until we start to get into the ~5.12 range).


And where ever you go, indeed eating out can be eye watering expensive... unless we are talkin' about them hot dogs from the gas stations (actually, on long drive days... these can be a rather good option). So shop groceries from the bigger Rema 1000 shops (also some COOPs), which I have found to be reasonably priced.



In essence, to keep the costs down... try to get your german teacher friend to drive there, fully loaded with camping gear and groceries and beer. Then head where the weather seems to be the best. Try to wild camp as much as possible (remember to pack out everything you brought... leave no trace) and do not block the road with your parked car (the farmers will be angry if you do... and you're most likely camping on their land). Also bear in mind, that there are quite a bit of toll -roads in Norway (e.g. access road to Haegefjäll in Nissedal). Sometimes they require cash.. sometimes paypal etc. work. And some bigger toll-roads just send the invoice in a few months time...


For the record, I've been climbing Lofoten quite a few times, also on the mainland side (Eidetind and also Stetind). I've also been to Kvaloya, but only for skiing... however a lot of my mates have climbed there, and all have raved about it (including my wife). In the south, I've climbed in Nissedal and Uskedal, the former multiple times. We were thinkin' of going to Setesdal, but never got around to do it. Romsdal is also on our radar... but as with Setesdal, schedules and weather have not cooperated. These is also a lot of stuff to climb outside these three (or four) locations... And there is also an abidance of bouldering and bolt clipping... I've also been multiple times in Bohuslan. In fact, we might again drive to Bohuslan and/or southern Norway for out summer holiday, with the whole family...But as ever, we aim to be flexible and do what we can... depending on weather... so pretty much any activity will do, like fishing (no license needed, if in the sea), mountain biking, climbing (boulder, sport, trad and even multipitch if we can acquire a partner... kids are too young to belay and can't leave the dog in the car for too long), hiking, swimming.... 

In reply to HeMa:

Sorry to hijack the thread: might be going to Norway in September for work, is it "climbing season" in September (or more likely wet)?

In reply to Badpanda:

We were up in Lofoten in August, car hire prices at Evenes/Lofoten/Bødo were around £1000 a week. We flew to Kiruna (Sweden) where a decent-sized car was about £250 a week,

Chris

In reply to camstoppa:

September is often called sendtember here in the Nordics. But obviously wetness can be an issue. Boulders will be Most easily in condition. Some sport crags as well (I recall some steeper crags are permadry). Trad will suffer from seepage the most. 

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ouch! Tbf, we have only hired from Gardermoen and booked well in advance. It's cheaper than ten years ago, while prices in much of Europe have sky rocketed, esp after Covid. So we found Norway much less of a shock than it used to be. 

In reply to wbo2:

Thanks, that's helpful.

In reply to Badpanda:

Good advice on the costs, thanks. I've done a fair amount of climbing and traveling in Switzerland...glad to hear that Norway is cheaper. I'd always heard it was more expensive.

Have fun on the ice!

In reply to HeMa:

Thanks, I was talking with a colleague of mine who has been to Lofoten and she highly recommends it. She was only there for hiking, and in Sept, but said it's completely worth it.

And I'm working on my elevator speech on getting my German friend to drive and pick us up. He's driven in a camper van before (not for climbing), but I don't think he'll be against the idea of driving up if we throw him some bucks to help out. Might be much cheaper.

Hadn't thought of the Sweden thing. Gotta think about that.

In reply to Chris Craggs:

Ha! My wife and I did that a year or so ago when visiting some relatives in Switzerland, near Lake Geneva. We wanted an over-night trip to Aosta just for ourselves and found it cheaper to take a train to France to rent the car from there. As in, so much cheaper it made the cost of the train and extra driving worth it.

In reply to camstoppa:

The fee for hijacking threads is linking a trip report after the fact, or the trip didn't happen.

In reply to pkasco:

If your friend is driving, and you’re thinking of North. The driving through Sweden (take a ferry from Germany) is quite a bit easier and fasten than through Norway with a multitude of ferries in the central part. Also taking a ferry from GER to FIN is an option (but no a cheap one), which means a meager 1400km of driving from the ferry terminsl. A bit of a push to do solo in one go… nicer to do in say two long days and see some sights in between.

In reply to HeMa:

That's interesting. I hadn't thought of that. flying to Copenhagen or Stockholm may work easier in that case. It's not that much fast, but it is by a couple of hours.

Helsinki is much quicker, but yeah, that trip from Germany isn't so nice.

In reply to pkasco:

It’s either Via Baltica, which is a lot of driving solo. Or a ferry from Travemunde to Helsinki (2 days). The ferry is actually rather nice, but also expensive.