UKC

Looks like we're heading to Ordessa for about a week near the start of July then Ariege for about a week after that. We've only passed through the Pyrenees on a bike tour before so can anyone suggest the following?

Somewhere to stay for 3-5 days between Santander and Ordessa? Doesn't need to have climbing, just some nice scenery, hills and a decent campsite.

Some longer scrambley type routes around Ordessa. 

A good base (campsite) for about a week in Ariege. Somewhere with good walking/running as well as cragging.

Thanks!

I to DaveHK:

Regarding Ariege, there is a nice camp site by the river in Tarascon which is a pretty good base for endless sport climbing and within striking distance of Dent d’orlu for long routes. The best crags at grade 4/5/6a are mainly far too hot in the summer but the granite at Auzat (15-20 minutes from Tarascon) is usually shady enough with a wide spread of grades. From high 6 there are plenty of cooler crags.  You could spend the rest of your life walking and running from there. You can drive up to around 1800m in various side valleys to escape summer heat. I’ve lived in Foix for 10 years and barely scratched the surface. You can find the local climbs on line on the CAFMA free web site. Ordessa has some very good via Ferrata routes traversing the great ledges above the valley, highly recommended, but the actual rock climbing is a bit uphill with a 6a+ entry level for any really good routes.  It’s a very steep place! There are scrambles on the high summits but that requires hutting or high camping, (which is not encouraged!) Wonderful place, though, and a must visit. Have fun. 

Brilliant, thanks for that!

How many of you are there?

When will you be in Ariège?

What types and grades of climbing are you looking for?

We may have accommodation of interest and I may be able to recommend some crags and routes to suit, maybe including ones yet to be published.

Just me and my wife. Will be there in mid to late July in our van. Looking for 6b-7a single pitch. My wife doesn't climb anymore but is happy* to hold ropes for a few hours so scenic and easily accessible is also desirable.

What does the Arran algorithm spit out when you plug those parameters in?  

*ish!

We were in the Ariege during the hot spell last summer and managed to climb every day by picking climbs in the shade or going high.

The main cave at Sabart is worth a look on a hot day even if the grades are on the tough side. Take a good torch and the small tunnel cave entrance a little further on leads into some impressive chambers.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sabart-10224/#overview

For easier multi-pitch climbs in impressive scenery the crag above the Soulcem reservoir makes a good day trip. Plenty of accessible summits nearby too.

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/soulcem_-_madelon-26016/

https://www.camping-lesedour.com/en/

We stayed on this campsite earlier this year - just outside Tarascon. Great site and convenient for most crags. Would agree with others about heat (and we were there in May/June) but also that Auzat is very good and has shade. Single pitch, scenic and accessible, but the grades might be a little easy for you.

Rik

If you're in a van, I presume you'll be looking for camping options, and my knowledge of those isn't great, but if you might be interested in an apartment while you're here just drop me a line.

For climbing, as others have said, shade will be important. Auzat is very reliable and has a number of sectors covering all grades of interest. Most of the other options for that grade range will get either morning or afternoon/evening shade, or will be high up. For morning crags look at  Sibada,  Lordat(secteur Principal), Ornolac(secteur Musical). For afternoons try  Alliat(Secteur La Loubetière),  Alliat(secteur La Grotte aux Fées),  Roc à Steph.

If it's a real heatwave, then a short drive to La Fajane (http://cafma.free.fr/Fajane/fr_fajane.htm) will almost guarantee cool conditions in an almost magical Narnia fashion.

My final suggestion may perhaps be seen as a little self indulgent but the Emojis sectors of https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/sabart-10224/ are ones I equipped only last year, have lots to go at in your grade range, are in good shade almost all day (from mid-morning), and are only 10 minutes walk from Tarascon. 🙂

Thanks folks, need to sit down and do a bit of planning.

What about camping in one of the following:

Ansó

Echo

Gavin

Bujareulo

All are really nice spots, with climbing and walking close by. Ansó and Echo are probably slightly quieter.

There's not really much in the way of long scrambles in the Ordesa Valley, however, there's a bit of via ferrata and plenty of rugged hiking on the 3000m peaks in the area. 

Some suggestions for the first part of your trip, with the caveat that we normally travel in autumn/winter, so the areas will be much warmer, and probably busier, when you go.

Basque country within the Bilbao/San Sebastian/Pamplona triangle.  Coastal scenery, green hills and a very different culture.  Extauri is the 5-star crag but will prob be too hot, but there are plenty of shady options in the area too.  We liked Camping Izarpe near Aroztegi but there are plenty to choose from.

Riglos is a must-see destination not far off your route.  The faces of the towers face all directions so you may also be able to find shady climbing here.  Van camping is tolerated in the parking area above the village.

In the Ordesa region itself, Las Devotas and Revilla are both quality crags, though I'm not sure what conditions are like in summer.  We stayed at camping Boltana, but there are prob many more option in summer.

If you're not committed to Ordesa itself, an alternative to consider is Cavallers - loads of climbing and walking in a high altitude setting.  Sadly there's no van camping high up, but there are plenty of campsites on your way up the valley.

Finally on to the Ariege.  One of the best things about this area is you can pick your altitude to suit the conditions. Tarascon is great for spring and autumn, but in summer you may be more comfortable basing yourself somewhere higher, like Ax-les-Thermes.

We've travelled many times in these areas, so there's loads of info on Dom's blog.  Try:

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/spain/navarra-and-basque-country/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/spain/aragon/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2023/03/16/cavallers/

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/category/france/ariege/ 

We did a very memorable day walk a couple of years ago on the Chemin de la Mature, which is in the Aspe Valley. This may not be where you’re planning to go but is highly recommended if you’re nearby. Plenty of info online.