Originally graded E5, War and Peace, an epic 16-pitch traverse across Craig Dorys on loose and friable rock, was first climbed by Pat Littlejohn and Steve Sustad in 1997 over two-and-a-half days, with 20 hours of climbing time.
The Ll?n Peninsula guidebook quotes Pat, saying: "It would go well in two days with a bivvy, a one-day ascent would be very impressive, as it's the sort of ground you can't rush."
Twenty-four years later in 2021, seasoned Dorys climbers, Nick Bullock and Mick Lovatt, took on the challenge of attempting to make the second ascent. Paul Diffley and Ray Wood followed their progress. This documentary is as much a character study, highlighting the depth of a strong climbing team, as a record of the climb.
Thanks for this, really enjoyed the videos. I guess a good thing about dorys is that however much loose rock you pull off there's always more underneath! Fantastic crag and location.
Great videos. Amazing route on a very impressive but chossy crag. Loved the comments that interspersed the climbing too. Those guys have real character. Well done to the film makers too.
Podcast Mountain Air - 14. Dougie Baird, Mountain Path Builder
In Focus Convergence
Fri Night Vid Mother Earth - 8b Trad in Australia
This week's Friday Night Video is about the pure obsession and effort behind a hard trad first ascent by Québécois/Australian Jacques Beaudoin. Mother Earth (8b) is a stunning sixty-degree thin crack climb hidden amongst bushland that has been...