UKC

Hi Guys. Want to do some outdoor climbing. Boulder and sport. Top rope from prebolted .

Have been indoor climbing for a long time and my kids 11 & 13 weekly climb at awesome walls.

They are both good and can do 6b+ , and are learning to lead.

I can't trad so the route needs to be pre bolted.   Really want to get outside this year and planning on starting this weekend.  

Would be Lake district and Anglesey,  snowdonia. 

We have a camper, and away most weekends, either to Windermere or Rhosneigr.  

can anyone recommend some good spots to go to? 

Cheers!

. 

Can't or won't?

"Can't" = doesn't have the gear? Not unreasonable, as OP says only been climbing indoors.

That maybe the explanation. However, I climbed with a second that pitched (no pun intended) up with only a harness, helmet, and rock boots at the weekend. To be honest, even the helmet is a matter of personal choice and I reckon the OP should be able to manage a harness and shoes. If Rick wants to climb sport, I reckon a second will be required.

Whilst it may be an impediment, I don't see an absence of one's own rack to be a major obstacle.

It's not quite the Lakes but the Arnside Silverdale area has lots of short crags that are easily solo-able or top roped. Weather cancelled be better than in the Lakes. There is some bolted stuff on the shore. Do NOT top rope on  Trowbarrow main wall as it's bad for the fossils. Top roping on Red Wall is perfectly acceptable but it's a tough gig! Use the maps on UKC to take a look at crags and choose accordingly.

What if he doesn't know anybody who can Trad? Plus it's a family event, even if he has a mate that can help, they might not be comfortable taking on responsibility for a family with kids.

To provide a balanced response, if the OP does want to try Trad, Little Tryfan is really forgiving. 

Easy to access, you can top out, easy grades, I think there's single pitch stuff on the far end, the slope is such that you could probably walk up it, and a set of nuts is all you really need beyond sport route gear.

I've never climbed sport in the UK so can't help with locations, but just make sure you practice how to lower off. First time can be a little hairy so practicing on the ground is worth while.

If you made it as far North as Scotland these crags would be ideal. I’m not sure if there are equivalents South of the border…

Kirrie Hill

Benny Beg

The Padlock

I wasn't trying to be arsey but it seems that it came across that way - apologies to the OP (and to everyone else that I seem to have upset).

Nonetheless, there's a lot of assumptions and what-ifs in your opening statement. As the old saying goes, IF my granny had wheels, she'd be a cart.

By precluding trad from consideration, it restricts the OP's options and I was curious as to why the OP can't trad. Moreover, insofar as "not knowing anybody", one assumes that, as the OP is comfortable asking for guidance on a public forum, there should be no reason why the OP shouldn't ask if anyone would be willing to give a gentle introduction to trad.

Of course, if the OP doesn't want to trad (i.e. won't), well, that's an entirely different matter.

If you're in the NW, the Mynydd CC Turn Up and Tie On event at the Big Depot might beof interest. Plenty of our members have kids and take them climbing (including on our meets) so there's a fair bit of experience to tap into. 

Edit to Add: There will be an outdoor TUPTO later in the year

Of which (on the off chance the OP does come up here) only Benny Beg is really suitable as you can reach some of the anchors from the top.

Two good places to go to in the Lakes where top ropes are secure and easy to set up (without needing sport draws or a competent belayer) are:
Church Crag

Headend quarry

For both you'll just need sling, krabs and a rope (Headend uses stakes and there are ringbolts at Church Crag).

I've been to both when my kids were younger and they also have short walk-ins and are relatively safe to sit at the bottom.

I didn't think you were arsey. It came across to me like you have a great climbing network, but might be missing that others don't and are figuring this out on their own.

Sport climbing doesn't belong on UK mountain crags. There a strong and fiercely defended ethic of keeping the majority of our rock bolt free. For this reason, you will struggle to find many pleasant sport crags within our national parks. However, there are some quarries with bolts, e.g.  Runestone Quarry or Bram Crag Quarry or bits of the slate above Llanberis, e.g. Australia .

You will have a lot more success with bouldering. Try, for example,  Blackstone Edge,  Thorn Crag,  Newbiggin Crag, Brant Fell or  Carrock Fell Crag. Brant Fell would be particularly good as a first venue. Two bouldering mats and careful spotting advisable with young'uns. You may want to sometimes specify a finishing hold lower than the top as the finish, to minimise risk.

Good luck.

Apologies first of all, as this is a little different to what you've asked (hopefully not in a 'trying to convince you to do trad' way 😂), but have you considered a trip to Fontainbleau? It's obviously not in the areas you've described, but on the flipside it's not that far away or expensive to get to, and IMO is far and away the best experience you could have as a first time outdoor climber. There is endless choice, very high quality across all grades, easy access and family friendly.

By contrast I'd find most UK bouldering much less attractive or easy to a first time outdoor climber, other than a handful of honeypot crags. Most is better quality in the higher grades (7 upwards), and often limited in scope / spread out.

As others say, the Lakes and North Wales are very traditional areas so most of the good stuff will be trad. I don't know the sport climbing well in that area so don't have specific suggestions, but you might have some luck with the Llanberis slate quarries or the Llandudno area.

Good luck! 

Further to last post... you could also consider a weekend with a guide, learning how to use trad gear to safely set up a top rope... and perhaps a few other things, too.