UKC

Hypoxic tents, xenon etc enabling a fast ascent of Everest  article in Today   May 15th.   It is easy to find as it is the last article in the programme. c. 5 minutes before the end.

Also reported here:

https://explorersweb.com/everest-xenon-climbers-ready-to-go/

It will be fascinating to see whether this succeeds. If it does, it could have significant impacts on the local economy. 

Looks like not everyone agrees:

https://www.theuiaa.org/statement-on-xenon-and-high-altitude-mountaineering...

Interesting to note that there's a lot of "expected" this and "could" that, and ".. the effects on performance are unclear..."

I think it's pretty likely to be shown as a bad idea due to sedative effects, but you know there's really only one way to find out how good or bad idea using Xenon is in this context. As long as... all the people using it are making an informed choice and willing to accept the risks.

It could also improve safety by significantly limiting the number of times you need to cross the Khumbu Icefall and reduce fatigue for the final push.

Or it could make things worse by enabling people who don't have the time and dedication to make attempts.

Either way it is interesting.

Yes, I was almost getting a little hint of a "fun police" vibe about that statement. Though they are probably right.

Cheats!

Steve House has done a two-part interview podcast on the subject. Part one up at:

https://uphillathlete.com/podcast/xenon-gas-and-high-altitude-performance-w...

I have listened to the 2nd part only, on Apple Podcasts, with Lukas Furtenbach, and he goes into their process in some detail and sheds some light on the hypoxic preparation that might not have been obvious in prior media about it.

TL/DR: it's very complicated and precise and had often not been done right.

It's mountaineering Jim, but not as we know it......

I suspect it'll be the latter - make things easier and the limit moves to match it. Cases in point - Headpointing, climbing in general, house prices vs. subsidized mortgages.