UKC

Hi,  posting this for a friend, who wants to clean and free up her krabs and cams.  Unfortunately we live in Malaysia and the standard 3 in 1 oil which I would use is not available; did get a suggestion of Metolius cam lube but that's not available either.  A web search shows SAE20 oil would be ok, or Singer sewing machine all purpose oil also appears.  Have suggested that she tests on a few krabs and cams.  Any suggestions on the SAE20 or sewing machine oil or anything else?  Thanks

WD40 with PTFE perhaps?

Or GT85

Thanks - always told not to use WD40

Thanks - always told not to use WD40.  

I've used dry bike chain lube in the past with success.

It works just fine. Spray on, wipe off excess, leave somewhere warm for any residue to evaporate.

Finishline Dry is the same as Metolious cam lube but cheaper and works well.

Silicone grease comes in small toothpaste tubes from car maintenance places and works well.

Wild Country used to recommend WD40. Unsure if they still do but I've been using it for years with no issues. 

yep

any lubricant is a lubricant and will "work".... to some extent.

In general for cams and climbing gear you want as low viscosity as practical (sew-machine oil is way lower than SAE20) so that it pull into the gaps through capilary action. 

ideally, you want a dry lube, one that doesn't leave a wet sheen for dirt and dust to stick to. Dry bike lube being a good option, but some dry bike lubes are quite gloopy and not really suitable. (finish line dry being the prefered brand - contains teflon wich isn't everyones cup o tea) 

Silicone spray lubes are typically dry and low visc, good for your needs. 

if you use a non dry oil, which is totally fine, (e.g. singer) just make sure to wipe off every bit you possibly can. 

there's nothing wrong with WD40, but it's not perfect. 

personally, I prefere a silicone type.

WD40 is designed to disperse water, evaporate, and leave a thin trace on the surface. great, works really well, it's just that the trace isn't particularly dry and tends to attract dust just like a wet lube without the benefits of a wet lube. 

WD40 with PTFE is _not_ the same as WD40 - the PTFE gives it longer term lubricating qualities.  They make two flavours 'WD40 Specialist PTFE' or 'WD40 Specialist Dry PTFE'.  'Dry' lubricants are desirable for cams as they don't attract dirt which gums them up.

From their website for the 'Dry' version:-

"Anti-Friction Dry PTFE Lubricant is a great lubricating spray for a number of scenarios and environments. Its anti-friction formula makes it perfect for high use or repetitive mechanisms that require protection from daily wear and tear, such as door and window tracks, chains and rollers, power tools, drill bits and lock mechanisms.  It’s quick-drying, and sets as a clear film that won’t attract damaging elements like dust, dirt and oil. It also makes an extremely effective mould release agent.  Our anti friction dry PTFE spray lubricant works through a range of temperatures, from -45°C to 260°C, and is safe to use on metals, glass and plastics.

For superior lubrication that won’t be affected by the weather, try our Specialist High Performance PTFE Lubricant."

I've recently bought a can of one of them for another purpose (lubricating sticking fishing rod spigots), I'll try it out .

Two reasons I don't use WD40 for lubing cams. Firstly, too much overspray. Secondly, it's not a great lubricant. It does clean things very well though.

I use dry bike lube. Easy to apply, not much excess to wipe off and it works.

Edit: I've not used the PTFE version, so that probably resolves point no.2

WD40 will get everywhere. Because it's designed specifically to get everywhere. Wipe it all you want, it'll still show up all over everything. I don't know about you but I prefer climbing without oil on my hands so I go for the dry options. 

The metolius/finishline stuff is great. Would definitely recommend that or closest available equivalent.

I've used both Wd40 and bike oil. Both work fine and I don't notice any difference in terms of short or long-term function. I don't see how Wd40 would go everywhere if using the tube to spray directly into the joints. 

Yes, it's excellent for cleaning and un-seizing neglected cams.  I've got some acetone too now, so will see how that works for cleaning.

Dirt sticks to oiled surfaces (i.e. WD40). Thats why Metolius Cam Lube (and most Mountain Bike Lubes) are more "dry" wax. 

"When dirt attaches itself to the fully dried film, small particles of the lube will break away, carrying dirt with it."

I have been told that Metolius is just a selected Mountain Bike product anyway, like their Cam Cleaner. It was easier to carry a 4oz bottle of cleaner concentrate than a 1 litre bottle. I see Metolius now recommend "near boiling" water to clean off the used lube.

I have just used graphite on some of my screwgates.  Seemed to do the trick, and is dry.  I see DMM don't  recommend graphite however.

What is problem with graphite? -- he asks after having just used it

I guessed (as an ex-engineer) and google confirmed ...

However, the use of graphite is limited by its tendency to facilitate pitting corrosion in some stainless steel, and to promote galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals (due to its electrical conductivity). It is also corrosive to aluminium in the presence of moisture.

Cams are bad cases of ...

a) Different metals (creates an electrical current)

b) Crevice (all those axels), example water in a crack is different to water on the surface - so another electrical current

I once used graphite (shaved off a pencil!) to lubricate a bin lid latch that was stuck. Surprisngly it worked. Bad news about corrosion on the post above though.

Acetone is great for getting stuff that it can dissolve off things, but less wonderful for getting grit and crap out of tight places. And I wouldn't trust it near any plastic or rubbery bits. 

Very hot water and a bit of soap and a lot of agitation works really well for cams.

Cheers.  Good point.

It's odd DMM didn't say that, then we might have had something to go off.  From browsing around I think a lot of people have used graphite to lube carabiners.

Ask 100 people that question and you will get 100 different answers.

Here's what Black Diamond say about their cams.

"The best way to clean these products is with an air compressor or a damp cloth. After letting the product dry, use a light layer of oil or silicone based lubricant to ensure proper functionality of all moving parts, be aware that if you use any kind of chemical product to lubricate, you should protect the textile part, and make sure that no contact occurs between the sling and the chemical."

Personally I wouldn't get too hung up on which oil as long as it conforms with the above.

Ultrasonic cleaners are supposed to be good for cleaning cams but a big outlay when you can get by with an old toothbrush and a pan of boiling water. 

Jewellers and dentists have them, you could always ask them to do it for you?

Or just fill a sink bowl with really hot water, add a tiny squirt of fairy and vigorously swish your cams about in it.

Or put them in a bowl of hot water on top of the tumble drier. 

Better yet, find something that operates with a powerful buzz to lean against the bowl

Just use a wax based lube of some sort or a light oil.  Even melted candle wax dripped in, would do the job.