UKC

Links to written beta on UKC?

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I know some of people write down long detailed beta narratives for routes and even for boulder problems. I don't routinely but have on a couple of occasions in response to messages asking for beta. A few people have archives of crazily detailed descriptions for many routes.

I ask people for beta if they are at the crag when I'm trying to climb something. I also like looking at the videos linked to routes and boulder problems on UKC logbooks.

I was thinking it might be handy if text files with written beta descriptions were also linked to routes on UKC. Would anyone else find those of interest?

4
 franf 22:26 Thu
In reply to stone elworthy:

I guess a lot of people use the UKC Logbooks for this but they’d need to have their logbook set to public which some might not want.

Maybe in addition to “Feedback” there could be a “Beta” section for each route?

In reply to franf:

You can link videos to the route on logbooks even if you don't have an (active) logbook. I've linked videos but have never made an actual logbook entry. 

I was imagining something where, just like how you click on the video and see a video, you would click on a text file and see a page (or more!) of text.

If pdf files were supported, I guess people could even include diagrams, topos etc.

 cwarby 07:29 Fri
In reply to stone elworthy:

I do this for routes I can't get in a session. Take a photo or two as I leave and draw it that evening. Only problem I can see is one of notation. I have little symbols for say a side pull. You looking at it might not help you! I have sometimes thought of printing the photo and annotating that. Anyone do this?

1
 Offwidth 09:03 Fri
In reply to stone elworthy:

Someone should re-invent peakbouldering.info ?!

 PaulJepson 10:45 Fri
In reply to stone elworthy:

If I've got any specific details I want to remember for a future go, I note it on a bit of paper and put it in the relevant page in the guidebook. Can doodle gear placements etc.

 Fraser 12:00 Fri
In reply to cwarby:

> I have sometimes thought of printing the photo and annotating that. Anyone do this?

I do it a lot and find it really helpful, even for some long, indoor routes. The one below is for one of my long-standing, outdoor projects but they do usually have some annotation if the relevant information isn't obvious from the graphics alone.


In reply to cwarby:

Th8nk thats just an age thing chris ! I recommend a trail of breadcrumbs to get back to the car as well 😀 

In reply to Fraser:

Have I understood correctly that you use red for the right hand and green for the left hand? That's appalling!!

 Fraser 14:21 Fri
In reply to osocavernoso:

Err....yes, that's correct.

Don't tell me you use red for left and green for right?!

 cwarby 14:21 Fri
In reply to climber34neil:

Yeah but I also have to put a sign in the car saying Chris so I get the right one😂.

Post edited at 14:21
 cwarby 14:26 Fri
In reply to Fraser:

Like it. I've found that looking at it the night before I go back seems to help imprint the sequences. I don't have to waste energy relearning. Each to their own I guess.

 Fraser 14:39 Fri
In reply to cwarby:

I do find it very useful, particularly if it's a route that you don't get on regularly. Having said that, I was on this route the other day for the first time in several weeks and figured out some quite different beta after move #14. So I'll need to update the diagram and ingrain it in my mind for next time!

In reply to stone elworthy:

Reminds me of when this did the rounds:

https://www.climberspath.com/

Have to wonder how many sales that gets.

The high tech stuff with annotated photos etc also sounds good, But I was thinking more of text files. I'm guessing those could be downloaded even when phone reception was bad and could be legible when printed on a bad printer etc etc.

I know many people have reams and reams of such text in their possession. Why not make it public just like videos are.

As an example of what I'm meaning, this is a short excerpt! of a beta text a friend wrote. He's advised me to modify it to the beta I'm trying. 

1. Step off the rock on the floor using a RF toe hold and a crossly pinch undercut finger hold for the LH and a thumb in the upside down pocket for the RH, move the LF up to the lowest of three small edges. 2. Move the RH up to a triangular wide pinch above the pocket and use this to press leftward to a small sharp fin with the LH. 3. Step the RF up to the third of the previously mentioned small edges and then move the LF out to a small crossly nubbin which then allows you to 'flick' into the opposing and larger fin with the RH. 4. Step the LF up to a small but positive flat edge (possibly chipped) and paste the RF on something temporarily whilst gaining an obvious finger layaway/pinch with the LH. 5. Step the RF up to a very small triangular hold about six inches above and six inches to the left of the original pocket and step the LF out to an obvious small blackened square toe hold on the left wall. 6. Locking down on the LH layaway pinch, get a reverse press on the bottom of a small flake line and use this to lift the RF up to a much larger blackened triangular foothold just above. 7. Holding this position, move the RH from the reverse press to a pinch hold in the reddish chalky patch just above (two fingers in a shallow scoop/pocket and the thumb on the sharp sidewall). 8. Move the LH in to a sharp layaway directly underneath the RH pinch and then move the RF in, to a small black flat edge located between the two opposing fins previously used as handholds (a bit of hip flex required) and step the LF out to a square smooth well used foothold in the left wall. 9. You can now move the RH from the pinch to a sharp finger layaway (that forms the thumb hold on the previous pinch) and bump the RF up to the top of the small layaway pinch mentioned in point 6. 10.From these stable foot positions, move the LH out to a small but good crozzly finger layaway (feel around for the best bit) and then move the RH down slightly to a pinch at the top of the reddish chalky patch. 11. Move the LF out to the left hand end of the blackened dog-leg edge and brace with a right toe in the faint groove formed by the side wall of the reddish chalky patch. 12. At the bottom prominent flake line above, take the spragg with the right thumb and move the RF up to a higher bracing position and then take the first part of the main flake line with the LH (thumb pinched the front). 13. Change the RH spragg to a reverse press and move the LH further up the flake line to a good two finger recess near the top and move the RF up to a tiny black edge on the right (quick breather here), before moving the RH to the top of the flake line on a sharp reverse layaway directly above the LH. 14. Using this RH reverse layaway press leftward to gain a sharp pocket at the back of a small rooflet with the LH. Move the RF to share the 'dog-leg' edge and then step the LF onto the small black edge directly above the 'dog-leg' edge. 15. Leaning back on the LH finger pocket(in the rooflet) step the RF awkwardly 'through' to a blackened smeary toe hold and press on this to allow you to move the LF to a more positive edge further left. 16. From this position make a loooong stretch over the rooflet for a good finger hold with the RH and step the LF up to the higher of two smooth shallow pockets. Congrats you made it to the first bolt !!

 Cusco 11:39 Sat
In reply to stone elworthy:

That’s to the first bolt…?

For me personally, I wouldn’t find that helpful for a route because it’s too detailed and doesn’t seem particularly punchy and memorable enough.

When I had sports projects some years ago which I tried each weekend for a month or two the beta which worked for me (and not necessarily anyone else) stayed in my head such that towards redpoint attempts I would start to day dream about the route beta and sequences like watching a film in my mind. That’s when I knew I was close. I also used to remember sequences as easy a+b+c additions in my head.


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