UKC

/ INTERVIEW: Aidan Roberts on Rocklands

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UKC News - on 28 Aug 2018
Aidan Roberts has returned from a very successful winter in Rocklands, where he feels his form was 'a step up' from the bouldering trips he's been on in the past. Aidan had one month in Rocklands and came back with a varied tick list which included first ascents, a Font 8C and a Font 8B flash.

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Ed Booth - on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Has James Pearson no flashed font 8B? More than once..?

1poundSOCKS - on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to Ed Booth:

> Has James Pearson no flashed font 8B? More than once..?

I heard they both got downgraded. But might be very wrong on that...

Kristof252 - on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Absolute waddage

galpinos on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to 1poundSOCKS:

I thought there were 4 flashes of problems graded 8B at time:

Secret Spendour

The Ganymede Takeover

The Great Shark Hunt

Schule des Lebens

Have they all been downgraded?

 

1poundSOCKS - on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to galpinos:

> Have they all been downgraded?

Not sure. I only remember JP doing two that were mentioned on one of the grit films. Then read somewhere they'd been downgraded.

Arms Cliff - on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to galpinos:

Yep! Some people still seem to take 8b for Schule des Lebens. 

Post edited at 21:50
galpinos on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to Arms Cliff:

Did they get downgraded because he flashed them? They may have been downgraded now but that was pretty impressive level in 2007 or whenever he was flashing 8Bs like it was going out of fashion.

Arms Cliff - on 28 Aug 2018
In reply to galpinos:

AFAIK Secret Splendour was new at the time and was originally graded 8b but was subsequently downgraded around the same time as James’ ascent, and has stuck at 8a+.  Not sure how many ascents the Swiss ones had had at the time, I would assume not many again. Impressive level at the time for sure. 

stp - on 03 Sep 2018
In reply to UKC News:

Good to see Aiden getting some credit here. Definitely well deserved. I thought his companion Nathan Philips had a pretty good trip too doing a bunch of 8B's including first ascents.

It would be interesting to know who the other <10 Brits who have climbed 8C are. I can only think of 2 off the top of my head: Ned Fee in Font and Tim ? who repeated The Finish Line in Rocklands.

I feel UKC news under-reports bouldering achievements (and to a lesser extent sport too). For instance I would expect every British 8C ascent to be reported - it's the top grade any Brit has climbed. In fact probably  8B+ ascents too. It's useful not just as current news. Full reporting means the site  becomes valuable historical resource too. It's so much easier to look something up than troll through a bunch of old magazines in some dusty attic. Also it gives current news a useful perspective too.

Arms Cliff - on 03 Sep 2018
In reply to stp:

Off the top of my head: Landman, Mick Adams, Dave Mac (unless he took 8B+ for Practice), Toby Saxton, Johnny G??


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