/ INTERVIEW: Aidan Roberts on Rocklands
Has James Pearson no flashed font 8B? More than once..?
> Has James Pearson no flashed font 8B? More than once..?
I heard they both got downgraded. But might be very wrong on that...
I thought there were 4 flashes of problems graded 8B at time:
The Ganymede Takeover
The Great Shark Hunt
Schule des Lebens
Have they all been downgraded?
> Have they all been downgraded?
Not sure. I only remember JP doing two that were mentioned on one of the grit films. Then read somewhere they'd been downgraded.
Yep! Some people still seem to take 8b for Schule des Lebens.
Did they get downgraded because he flashed them? They may have been downgraded now but that was pretty impressive level in 2007 or whenever he was flashing 8Bs like it was going out of fashion.
AFAIK Secret Splendour was new at the time and was originally graded 8b but was subsequently downgraded around the same time as James’ ascent, and has stuck at 8a+. Not sure how many ascents the Swiss ones had had at the time, I would assume not many again. Impressive level at the time for sure.
Good to see Aiden getting some credit here. Definitely well deserved. I thought his companion Nathan Philips had a pretty good trip too doing a bunch of 8B's including first ascents.
It would be interesting to know who the other <10 Brits who have climbed 8C are. I can only think of 2 off the top of my head: Ned Fee in Font and Tim ? who repeated The Finish Line in Rocklands.
I feel UKC news under-reports bouldering achievements (and to a lesser extent sport too). For instance I would expect every British 8C ascent to be reported - it's the top grade any Brit has climbed. In fact probably 8B+ ascents too. It's useful not just as current news. Full reporting means the site becomes valuable historical resource too. It's so much easier to look something up than troll through a bunch of old magazines in some dusty attic. Also it gives current news a useful perspective too.
Off the top of my head: Landman, Mick Adams, Dave Mac (unless he took 8B+ for Practice), Toby Saxton, Johnny G??
Margo Hayes has redpointed her third 9a+ with an ascent of Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana, Spain. The line was first climbed by Chris Sharma and is a 50 metre endurance-based route.