In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
I'm guessing Mr Jebb is a Half Man Half Biscuit fan, as there is a song called "Used to be in Evil Gazebo" on the "Trouble over Bridgewater" album
Includes the chorus "I've been in a mental hospital".......
> Aye... In true armchair commentary style, looking at it - it does strike me as more of a risky solo/highball than a trad-route. What is it 8m?
>
Looking at the photo in the News section - which is a great shot btw - I think I must agree. But I'm sure it feels like a route when you're on it!
Excellent effort, whatever you want to call it.
Aide jebb24 Nov 2008
If people fancy highballing this they can go for it. I was shiting myself on the mantle and I had a cam by my waist. Not to mention the stone trough directly below. This high balling thing is all well and good but, what’s easier a few cams and a rope, shock horror, leading routes, or carrying fifteen pads to the crag. I for one always feel a bit daft climbing past bomber gear placements.
If your keen though get yourselves up there and I’ll buy you a beer. Mega climbing, I would say that though.
Apologies any one in the area on the days I’ve spent falling off this route. My language may not always have been great! Sorry.
Well done who ever got the name, the mighty biscuit! “I’ve been in a mental hospital but I don’t like to talk about that much” Awesome.
> If people fancy highballing this they can go for it. I was shiting myself on the mantle and I had a cam by my waist. Not to mention the stone trough directly below. This high balling thing is all well and good but, what’s easier a few cams and a rope, shock horror, leading routes, or carrying fifteen pads to the crag. I for one always feel a bit daft climbing past bomber gear placements.
>
> If your keen though get yourselves up there and I’ll buy you a beer. Mega climbing, I would say that though.
>
> Apologies any one in the area on the days I’ve spent falling off this route. My language may not always have been great! Sorry.
>
> Well done who ever got the name, the mighty biscuit! “I’ve been in a mental hospital but I don’t like to talk about that much” Awesome.
>
> Aide.
great effort Aide. Certainly didnt mean any disrespect by saying it could be bouldered, and your quite right, if theirs gear it makes sense to use it and climb it that way.
None taken I was just pointing out the obvious. If people want to high ball these things they can go for it, seems a logical thing to do but not for me. ohh cam 3 and a cam 2. Besides i'm too pussy 8m is still 8m's.
Yes, like said above, I didn't mean or want to take anything away from your ascent. I'm sure I'd want gear and mats if I tried any moves there! I couldn't tell frm the photo if those two blocks were directly below the line of the route or slightly towards the camera.
In reply to Aide jebb:
I think I may have saw you hanging around on it on Saturday, It looked pretty hard.
Respect for doing it, respect even due just for getting out in the freezing weather.
I'd planned to do a bit of bouldering and as soon as i felt how cold it was i abandoned all hope of climbing and went for a walk instead.
Perhaps i'm just soft though.
In reply to Aide jebb:
Looks nice; good stuff. Hard AND safe -- perfect! I guess this buttress must surely be mature now. Perhaps the hardest concentration of E-grades anywhere on grit?
Anonymous26 Nov 2008
saw dawes on it yrs ago, goes up a nice shield feature if i remember, looks nails
I'm 5.10, I reckon this would be easier for the tall, but a lot harder for the short, i did kind of have to jump the last move to the break, well both feet came off.
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