UKC

DESTINATION GUIDE: Atmospheric Climbing in Ogwen Valley

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 UKC Articles 30 Jun 2016
Ed Booth attempting the unrepeated original finish to 'The Ogwen Crack' E8 7a, 3 kbThe mountains surrounding Ogwen are steeped in climbing folklore with some of the earliest modern rock climbs in the UK being recorded on the cliffs and gullies of Tryfan and Cwm Idwal. There is a real 'big' mountain feel to the climbing at Ogwen, but this is mixed with a more relaxed atmosphere that many other upland areas don't share. The ease of access, good footpaths, distant sea views and generally off-vertical cliffs, don't threaten or impose in a daunting way and have been instrumental in the continued popularity of this well-travelled area.

Local Ogwen climber Calum Muskett shares his insider knowledge of this picturesque valley in North Wales.



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Ysgo 01 Jul 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Surprised no-one else has mentioned that Idwal Slabs is in there twice. Looks like the second one should be labelled Suicide Wall.
In reply to Ysgo:

Our crag auto-linking was getting confused as Suicide Wall is actually a buttress within Idwal Slabs in the database. The link's sorted now.
 AP Melbourne 04 Jul 2016
In reply to Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH:

Surprized no-one's opposed the re-cutting/pruning of the old sawn tree stump beneath Wrinkled Retainer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
In reply to AP Melbourne: I thought it was said sarcastically (I sincerely hope so) but you're right, it's surprising that no-one has bitten,

BTW, part way through your book, great read so far.

 AP Melbourne 04 Jul 2016
In reply to Michael Hood:

Thanks Michael,
The Ogwen tree saga way back when caused a massive uproar ... not being sarky, just hoping it doesn't get repeated.
Glad you're enjoying the book - cheers,
AP.
 Chris Harris 04 Jul 2016
In reply to UKC Articles:

Pedant alert.

Herford's Crack, not Hereford's Crack.

In reply to AP Melbourne: I remember the uproar well, did anyone ever own up?

In reply to AP Melbourne:

> The Ogwen tree saga way back when caused a massive uproar ... not being sarky, just hoping it doesn't get repeated.

Yes, given the remorse that was expressed at the time, it would certainly be appropriate to allow it to regrow.
 AP Melbourne 05 Jul 2016
In reply to Michael Hood:
Yes 'he' did after numerous letters to the magazines and apolgised profusely. I shan't name names but it wasn't JR.
Martin Boysen had led the route at E3 sometime earlier - stepping off a lower limb so by cutting down the only visible tree around for miles to add two hard moves caused a major stir. I did the 3rd ascent and was appalled TBH.
If young Callum (who I respect enormously as a climber) did a little research he may well be enlightened - and I'm in no way 'bashing' the youngstar. Ignorance is indeed bliss sometimes.
No hand saws in Ogwen huh.
Cheers,
Andy.
Post edited at 11:32

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