UKC

NEWS: Austrian Grade 7 Ice - Hardest in World?

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 UKC News 25 Jan 2010
[Center Court WI7 320, 4 kb]Two of the world's hardest ice climbs were established in Austria's Valle di Gastein this January.

On the 4th, Austrians Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber made the first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall (WI7, 800m) in the Gasteinertal...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=51447

 thommi 25 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC News: Incredible, absolutely awesome stuff. The report on alpinist really gives an idea of what was involved. muchos respectos to all involved. terrifying and inspirational stuff.
tom.
 jazzyjackson 25 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC News:

nice quote from the grade WI 7 pitch leader !

"What makes me a bit sad is that I could feel the close border between a very hard climb and a suicide mission."

What an ascent!
 Henry Iddon 25 Jan 2010
In reply to UKC News:

Sounds like the crazy antics Bullock would get up to.....
 TobyA 25 Jan 2010
In reply to thommi:
> The report on alpinist really gives an idea of what was involved.

Actually Alpinist is reporting the Planet Mountain report, which is better in itself (link at bottom of Alpinist page). There are more photos on the Planet Mountain page as well.

Rather crazy looking stuff - even the WI5 next to it looks pretty mental. Must be a very impressive cliff.
Removed User 25 Jan 2010
In reply to TobyA:

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37...

Those pictures of a freesolo leashless ascent of Supervisor are making me feel a little bit sick...
 Alex Thompson 25 Jan 2010
In reply to Removed User:
Soft lad.
 thommi 25 Jan 2010
In reply to toby a: thanks toby. the report on planet mountain makes me feel a bit queesy as well. awesome stuff.
 TobyA 25 Jan 2010
In reply to thommi: I think their editorial comment is also excellent in the light of the discussion that took place her over the those soloing articles back in December.

Now, returning to the original line of thought, about the "delicate nature" of these solo ascents and how they should be displayed, it seems clear to us that no one can stop or judge the "strange" desires which work their way into a climber's mind. Alpinism is, and wishes to be, free. Having said that, we would like people to properly bear in mind that the "sort of melancholic mood" and that "desire for change" which resulted, as Hauser explains, in his solo ascent of Supervisor. All alpinists know moments like this all too well, as do all men. But what is important is that one isn't led into believing that they must necessarily convert into "daring" or record ascents. In short, we would like choices, these choices, to be taken in a fully aware state of mind. We know that they are. We're certain alpinists know what they're doing and they know the risks they're taking. And this is certainly the case with Rudolf Hauser. But perhaps it's worth reminding that "moumtain climbing" must combine, above all, with life itself. It's also for this reason that we've published Hauser's text in full, to know and take part in the experience of the 27 year old carpenter, father of a four year old daughter, from Bad Hofgastein.

Very wise words but a superb piece of climbing though, nevertheless.
Ackbar 02 Feb 2010
In reply to vincentvega:

Quote from Hauser: "from here onwards things became more delicate and tricky, as the route turned into something very Scottish"

What does "very Scottish" mean?
 Ian Parnell 02 Feb 2010
In reply to Ackbar: If you follow recent threads on here he must mean by "very Scottish" very easy, and well off top world standards
 TobyA 02 Feb 2010
In reply to Ian Parnell:
> If you follow recent threads on here he must mean by "very Scottish" very easy, and well off top world standards

Yeah - I thought exactly the same. And I guess he must just be wrong on this bit "on the whole Centercourt is a world-class line" because if it is very Scottish I thought that meant it had to be crap as well?

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